Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

AZBound, Could you tell me what model Trailair hitch you have ? There is a label on the side of the hitch which will read M15 or LO5, in advance thank you, Tom

Tom, most of the frame numbers are a 1621, mine is. With my Mor/Ryde pin box, its 77 1/2 " from the front of the Horn to the center of the pin. Your Horn should have the same frame as Alan stated. Bob

Bob,

I know you and others are correct, I also came to the same conclusion. I also am in discussion with Heartland. In fairness to HL and because of the cost in correcting my problem, I am giving them an opportunity to fix the problem in a manner that is best for all. At first glance it looks like a simple fix, undo 10 bolts and put the new one on, 1 hour tops. I wish..., in my desire to not type a diatribe here I am keeping it simple and omitting "the rest of the story" (al la Paul Harvey)... I really would like any forum reader that has a Trailair kingpin box to let me know what model number is on their unit, it may help in my discussions with HL. At this point I am opimistic it will be taken care of by HL.

Tom

Folks I could use your help still because I'm am still trying to solve this problem, it's a tough one. I made reservations 2 months ago for the end of this month and and next month. I may not be able to use my Brand New 2011 3670RL... My world won't end and I'll lose my reservation $$$ but if I can use my RV I'd like to. I've learned from this forum that I should tow my RV as level as possible. I'm new and don't know why. So my question is why ? What will happen if I don't, what if I tow nose high ? Has anyone done this before and if so, did you have problems ? How high were you in the nose ? I am pulling it with a 3500HD Chevy Diesel Dually if this matters... In advance, Thanks for your help. Tom

Tom,

What you need to do is load up your RV as you normally would for use, then head to a scale to get an axle by axle weight. From that, you can determine how much additional weight is being carried by the rear-most axle. You may then compare that weight to the rating of the axle and the rating of the tires/wheels on that axle. If you are close to or exceeding the rating of any component, the risk will be self-evident.

What many with overloaded axles/tires experience is blown tires, flattened springs etc. Some of it - repeatedly.

This all said, you may find that you are NOT at or over your ratings based on how you load your RV. Weighing is the key! If you're coming to the Nashville rally, we'll have a weighing service available.

Jim

Tom:
I don't know if Jim's reply made clear to you the answer to your question. Not towing level causes 1 of the axles/tires to bear more of the weight, instead of the equally balanced loads they were designed for.

Jim/Bill, Thank you both. I understand and I can buy into it, just makes sense. So does weighing each wheel make sense. The reason for the question is I may need to change the geometry (height) on my 3670RL. I purchased from Heartland the optional Trailair king pin box when I ordered my 2011 3670RL in Nov 2009. It is a M15 Trailair king pin box. However, Trailair literature states it should be a LO5. If I install the Trailair LO5 ( which is the correct replacement for the Heartland supplied stock Lippert 1621HD king pin box according to Trailair) the RV will hit and destroy the TV box side rails. This is why Heartland uses the shorter M15. However, the M15 puts the TV and RV too close, if I am not exactly straight backing up I will punch a tail gate corner thru my RV. I also may hit enroute if something gets skewed too much. It's a lose lose situation. In my opinion, Trailair king pin boxes can not be used with the new body style GM trucks because the bed sides are higher. I am dealing with Heartland customer service and they have never seen this problem before. We think there may be a fix and I'm hoping to make this happen before my resevations come and go. I have not used the 3670RL, it's still parked in my toy barn. I only pulled it home from the dealer and I'm reluctant to take it out on the road until I solve this problem. I'll attach some photo's to help explain. Tom

in your 4th picture, Is the truck hitched to the trailer? The tape measure is showing about 16.5" right? the difference in the L05 and the M15 is 8.75" , and that would put 25.25" between the trailer and the bumper of the truck.

With our Ford I can just barely walk between the truck and trailer when hitched. with a distance of 17.5" between the truck bumper and trailer.

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

Alan, I am hitched in the 4th picture. The distance is 16.5" between bumper and BH. I also have and want to use Rock Tamer mud flaps to save my BH from road rash. Others can and I should be able to use these also. You can see the Rock Tamers in the 6th photo if you look closely. In addition, I will not be able to hook up without a second "knowledgeable" person closely watching the tailgate BH distance. As is, it's really hairy hooking up, the least bit error and bingo, I'll have damage. If I am the least bit caty whompiss I will either push the protruding tailgate corner into the BH and damage both the tailgate and BH. I should be able to hook "by myself" up like others can. I just barely missed hitting the flap door for the landing gear raise/lower switch when I hooked up the last time, ya can't have eyes everywhere, there's just too much to watch as is. Your 17.5 inches would be all I need to give me 1" more then my kiss... but I kiss at 16.5". I just wish I never ordered the optional Trailair hitch because in my opinion, this is the source of my headaches. Thanks a bunch for trying to help me, I really appreciate it. Tom

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

You know you can drop the tailgate and remove it or let it hang by the cords, and it will be out of the way while hitching.

Or back under the trailer just enough to put the tailgate back into the up position, then continue to hitch up to the trailer.

Just a couple simple thoughts to help get you on the road sooner.

p.s. My wife is craving Gibble's Cheese curls, She misses something about PA.

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

One thing I did not see mentioned about towing level. Your refrigerator needs to be level to cool properly.

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

Rollinghome, I think you are missing Alan's point. If you use the L05 you will have 8 3/4" more clearance than you have now. You would be in no danger of touching your RV unless backing in at an extreme angle. I have the Trailair unit on my 3600RL which is the same size unit as yours. I had absolutely no problem hitching up- plenty of clearance on a new body style short box. I do now use a vee tailgate so I don't even have to lower anything to hitch up--makes it a little quicker and easier.

Thanks to all, I know you are trying to help and don't give up, maybe someone will see what we all missed. However, you are correct as Alan states the LO5 will give me more back distance 8+ inhes. BUT, what happens as the king pin box moves back 8+ inches or it relates to 25+ inches between the TV and RV sounds good so far... BUT... this 8+ inches ALSO extends the entire pin box INSIDE of the bed.... so when I turn past 80 degrees the King Pin box coupler (the thing that is connected to the 5th. wheel frame) impacts the bed side rails about 1" lower then the top and does some serious damage, uh oh better get Macco... So theTrailair LO5 is out ! JDDugan, do you have the new body style GM bed at 8' ? This bed is higher then the classic bed (pre 2007.5) Gm hurt me n helped me... it's a bitter sweet thing. Just the same ur intentions are good n keep ur comments comming because I don't have an answwer yet either. But, we all will beat this thing as a team I just know, I have a $60,0000 dolllar RV I can't use n I'm not a happy camper literally... But I'm still alive and ya can't beat that Tally Ho, Thanks guys , Tom

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

Tom,

<O</OIn your first photo it looks like your Super Glide hitch is all the way forward. I know this is an automatic slider hitch but is there a way to manually slide it back while you’re hitching up? I believe the 18K hitch will move back 14 inches which should give you plenty of clearance if you could get it to slide back.<O</O

Alan, OMG Gibbles Chesse curl's, My bud is the plant mgr at this place But Patti has me on a diet, so.... u get the rest. We are country folk with values... You must come to the right coast for the most Common tho, we can take u to the next level. If ur ever over here hit up me first so I can give u the skinny on the real things to enjoy instead of the BS ur reading in RV'ing today. U can even stay at our place with FREE hook up and use our car to tour the local "stuff". Just leave ur walet home n have fun.... we like to brag how USA friendly we are dude. Tally Ho

PS We have some folks who thought it would be clever to take advantage of fat wallets and make some mulla on dumb tourist.... that kinda is upsetting to us locals and not at all good. So hit me up n have fun OK Tom

Howard, Good idea, however there is no way to get any of the the Pull-Rite's Hitche's into the full back position (14") without moving the carriage left or right 90 degerees. Good thought though, just won't do it. Thanks for your input.

Re: Problem Solved... I think Re: Your help needed - TV to BH clearance

Tom, I had a 2007.5 new body style 2500HD with the 6 1/2' box. As I said, I had no issues with clearances of any kind. The underside of the BH cleared the box sides with tonneau cover rails by at least 5". I still have the same 3600RL with the Trailair pinbox, but have traded for a 2010 F350 dually. I haven't got the BH out of winter storage yet, but I'm confident the Trailair will work just as well with the new truck. I hope you get your issues resolved.

JDDUGAN, Never thought I'd say it... Should a bought a FORD... Almost did.... wish I did now... But what about the next poor SOB who buys my old unit, who thought "it'll work, it's just a 5th wheel." I somehow am a softie and couldn't do that to some sorry dude who thought it would work... Maybe we need some sort of standards for truck beds - you know ASTM or ASME style. It sounds stupid but when you think about it MANY 1 ton buyers are using the rigs to haul heavy stufff, like 5th wheels and contractors trailers. I love GM with the new body style and deep bed.... but me and others are having some serious heartburn over a quick CAD/CAM keystroke.... My problem has seriously given me and others some, HEAVY heartburn. I love the deep bed.... but at what cost ? When you anaylize all the time spent on my problem it is really GM's cause - but - what they did was good for me so how can I complain ? What a canudrum... Thank you for your input. Tom

JDDUGAN, Your 350 is a shortbed, mine is a long bed, that's the BIG difference. What kind of a hitch do u have ? Thanks for ur input. Tom

Tom, my F350 dually is a long bed, as are all current duallys to my knowledge. My hitch is an 18K RBW.