Jacking Up a 5th Wheel

gomcalli

Member
Hello All

I have been looking for a procedure on how to properly jack up a 5th wheel to change a tire. or for servicing I am looking for the proper manufactures location to place a bottle jack to lift and the recommended locations to block the frame.

In addition I would appreciate if some of you seasoned rv's gave a few tricks, tips, or pitfalls you have encountered.

Thanks

G
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Page 5 of THIS manual states to lift only by the frame.
Others have differing opinions. Stay tuned.

Peace
Dave
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Maybe someone can post a photo of changing a tire by jacking up the frame....
:please note my jack is rated @ 4 times more than the lifting actual lifting weight. Why lift half the weight of the RV 8"-10"+ inches when 1" is all that needed. (alot safer too).
 

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porthole

Retired
One hint I would add; whether you are using a bottle jack or a fancy schmancy Level up system. Leave the trailer hooked up to the truck if at all possible.
And if you are going to buy a bottle jack; a 20 ton jack is just a little more then a 4 ton jack - and way easier to operate the jack.

Personally I wouldn't trust a 4 ton jack to lift up one side of a 14-16000 pound trailer. Reserve capacity is always beneficial.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Where did you get that saddle head for your jack? Although the "official" instructions say lift by the frame to change a tire, if you want to do spring work, you need to lift the axle some, too.
 

porthole

Retired
Jacking under the frame requires a lot of blocking or a really tall jack. Either way you are starting off with an unstable environment. The lift point is too far away from the ground. Plus you need to jack it high enough to over come the spring travel, making for a fairly unsteady operation.

Jacking directly under the spring keeps the jack and pick point down low to the ground and once you take the weight off the ground you will only need another inch to get the tire off.

The picture above is someones homemade adapter on a bottle jack. Good idea if you plan on doing it yourself and not using road service.
Even if you are a road service type of person, at least having the tools could minimize being stranded.
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Where did you get that saddle head for your jack? Although the "official" instructions say lift by the frame to change a tire, if you want to do spring work, you need to lift the axle some, too.
Send me the screw of your jack and i'll weld the angle iron on top for ya...and no the weld won't break!
 

lwmcguir

Well-known member
Maybe someone can post a photo of changing a tire by jacking up the frame....
:please note my jack is rated @ 4 times more than the lifting actual lifting weight. Why lift half the weight of the RV 8"-10"+ inches when 1" is all that needed. (alot safer too).

I use a trailer tire jack for the good tire and then the bottle jack as you have shown. much safer and faster than jacking up the frame. HL does it the same way at the factory, they don't jack the frame either.
 

Gaffer

Well-known member
axel saddle.jpg

The attached photo is from an earlier thread on this topic. I puchased a saddle like this for under $5 at my local RV dealer. It fits snugly between the u-bolts and provides a nice flat surface for the top of the bottle jack.
 

sdrubrecht

Active Member
I like that saddle gaffer used. I had some 3 1/2 inch pipe laying around, so I cut a saddle out of that. It fits perfectly with the diameter of the axel so I welded it to the top of the jack. Had to change tires once and found that my 12 ton jack wouldn't fit under the axel after the blown tire had completely disentegrated from the wheel. Jack, block, and rejack is a pain and dangerous. I got a lowboy 4 ton and welded a pipe saddle on it also. Had another blowout (have since replaced all my china bombs) and it was simple to raise the axel with the 4 tonner enough for the 12 ton to fit, then safely take it up the rest of the way. BTW, I also put a block of wood on top of the spring to transfer load to frame and not overstress the spring. I think the main issue with jacking on the axel is not to dent or bend the hollow pipe the axel is made of. Any of the saddles mentioned here and jacking under the spring, not the middle of the axel, should prevent bending and denting.
 

TedS

Well-known member
I like the saddle idea. Now wouldn't that be a good mod for the axle manufacturer to add a saddle for a jacking point.
 

navyAZ1

Well-known member
I carry a bottle jack but rely on my road service to handle stuff like this, but I also carry a "Trailer Aid". This is a plastic ramp that you place in front of or behind the good the tire that is not flat and you pull up or back up to put the good tire on the top of this ramp and this lifts the axle with the flat just off the ground for you to change. I used this a couple of times when I used to pull horse trailers but have never needed to do it with our BH. These are pretty cool and saves a lot of work using a jack and your rig is on a solid support while you change the tire. Their cost is around $60 or it was when I bought mine.

Ron
 

Craneo

Member
I carry a bottle jack but rely on my road service to handle stuff like this, but I also carry a "Trailer Aid". This is a plastic ramp that you place in front of or behind the good the tire that is not flat and you pull up or back up to put the good tire on the top of this ramp and this lifts the axle with the flat just off the ground for you to change. I used this a couple of times when I used to pull horse trailers but have never needed to do it with our BH. These are pretty cool and saves a lot of work using a jack and your rig is on a solid support while you change the tire. Their cost is around $60 or it was when I bought mine.

Ron

Good find/idea. After my existing jack didn't fly when I last had a blow out, I've been looking for a solution before the next (inevitable) flat occurs. Lucky someone with a bigger/better jack helped me the last time.

BTW. I just ordered the Trailer Aid from Amazon for <$35, free super saver ship.
 

MystrMagic

Magician
Hello everyone. Many may disagree with what I'm about to write but remember, it's only my personal opinion. I have a 2009 Cyclone 3914... gigantic and heavy. I dreaded my first flat and sure enough, it happened about 1500 miles from home at a very inconvenient time (of course). Fortunately there was a garage nearby but they didn't have enough "jacking power" to get my trailer high enough (using the frame) so we were stuck. I came up with the idea of "helping" them by driving the good wheels up on a couple of planks to give added height, then see if they could block and jack to the correct height. It "sort of" worked and we were soon on our way again.

So I began to think long and hard about tire changing and how to make it a one-man operation, as easy as possible. Hours of contemplation provided me with a solution that I am extremely happy with. I have used it several times now with great success. In fact, before I describe it let me say, I had to have two tires replaced at the same time, on the same side, and Discount Tire in California couldn't even get the vehicle jacked high enough so I offered to "lift" it for them, using my system, and they were extremely happy with the result. They said they had never changed tires on an RV that easily.

My solution:
I purchased 2" x 12" pine boards (length isn't important yet) and cut them, and bolted them together, to make two separate mini-ramps. Each ramp is built with four layers of the 2" x 12" pine boards. (Twelve inch width was chosen, just for added safety. I found 6" or 8" widths worked but I didn't like the precision needed to get squarely on top of them. And four layers of 2" boards gives an overall height of about 6" off the ground because 2" boards aren't exactly 2"!)

The first ramp is measured long enough to fit comfortably under two of the wheels (I have three axles so three wheels in a row on each side). For safety reasons, the ramp extends in front of one wheel by about eight inches or so and then beginning about 6 inches on the other end of the second wheel the ramp begins to taper down to the ground. I accomplished the taper by simply cutting each board at a shorter lenght, about 3 - 4 inches shorter, so it presents sort of a stair step look.

The second ramp is constructed the same but it only fits one wheel instead of two.

Now here is how I use them. If the front or rear tire is flat I use the first, large ramp and either pull forward or back up on it until two wheels are on the ramp. This lifts the third, flat tire completely off the ground. If the middle tire is flat then I begin with the large ramp as above and pull forward until the front two tires are on the ramp. As soon as both wheels are on the ramp I place (and align) the smaller ramp behind the rear wheel, then back up until the rear wheel is on the small ramp. That means that the rear wheel is supported off the ground on the small ramp, the front wheel is supported off the ground on the large ramp, and the middle wheel is hanging completely free spinning off the ground between the two ramps.

All that's left to do is pull out the trusty air hammer (I have a compressor on my truck) and change the tire with no sweat.

This process is so amazingly fast! It actually takes me longer to get the spare tire out from under the RV than it does to get the RV up off the ground ready to change the tire.

These ramps are heavy because they are solid pine wood, and the are large (approximately six feet long for the large one and about three feet long for the small one) but since I have a nice big truck I have no problem carrying them around on the truck bed.

I have also had my frame and axles inspected after using this system for four or five tire changes and there is no damage whatsoever so I am a "happy camper" so to speak. I can't imagine having to change a tire by actually jacking it up again.

Well, that's my "two-cents" worth. Hope it is useful to someone else.
 

Hoosier Wolverine

Active Member
I've read with interest all the innovations some of you have come up with for changing tires. Last summer I built a ramp from 2 x 8's for changing tires. During my next trip I had a blowout and used my ramp to change the tire. It worked great.
Now I'm considering a Mor/Ryde IS system and have been wondering about changing tires with that system installed. Does anyone know if the ramp will still work or will it be necessary to jack the trailer from the frame? Since the axles will be removed it doesn't appear as if a bottle jack with the cradle can be used. I'd appreciate some thoughts on this. Thanks, John
 
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