I have a new bh 3010RE and am in the process of buying a lot & having a home built. The problem is the rv parking is going to be up a slight incline on the driveway then leveling out after 20'. Also, at the same time the 5er will not be in a straight line with my gmc long bed. It will be at an angle when in place. Can I unhook at an angle? Then will I be able to re hook?
backing, hooking & unhooking limitations with a 5er
- Thread starter galnelson
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
One thing to take a look at is the clearance between the tailgate when down, and the front of the RV. When straight, the clearance is minimal. You couldn't have much of an angle before getting contact. You might want to get truck and trailer into the configuration you need and lower the tailgate to see how much room you have.
porthole
Retired
Where we "dog camp" every year usually requires me to be in a less then ideal disconnect location. Most of the time I have just moved the truck far enough forward to release the pin and then raise the trailer up and over the tail gate or corner of the fender.
Hydraulic landing gear makes this a breeze.
'WHEEL CHOCKS"
Hydraulic landing gear makes this a breeze.
'WHEEL CHOCKS"
jmgratz
Original Owners Club Member
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
I have unhooked and hooked up at an angle many times. If you have a swivel head on the hitch you will not have a problem.
I have unhooked and hooked up at an angle many times. If you have a swivel head on the hitch you will not have a problem.
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
I was concerned when I first had to unhitch at an angle. But then thought about it. If you unhitch and pull straight forward you move in a straight line and the pin leaves about through the center of the gate space. The pin traces a straight line back out the bed. Same thing with hooking up. Just be sure of the tailgate clearance to the trailer.
I was concerned when I first had to unhitch at an angle. But then thought about it. If you unhitch and pull straight forward you move in a straight line and the pin leaves about through the center of the gate space. The pin traces a straight line back out the bed. Same thing with hooking up. Just be sure of the tailgate clearance to the trailer.
scottyb
Well-known member
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
If you have to hitch / unhitch when the truck is not straight with the trailer, it doesn't take much of an angle before the tailgate will conflict with the front compartment. You can leave the tailgate closed until you pull forward a foot or so, then lower it, for unhitching and reverse everything for hitching. It helps if someone is helping you in doing so.
If you have to hitch / unhitch when the truck is not straight with the trailer, it doesn't take much of an angle before the tailgate will conflict with the front compartment. You can leave the tailgate closed until you pull forward a foot or so, then lower it, for unhitching and reverse everything for hitching. It helps if someone is helping you in doing so.
backing, hooking/unhooking 5 er
Not sure I made it clear that not only will I be hooking/unhooking at an angle, but the 5th wheel will be on level ground & my gmc will be on a sloped driveway with the front end lower than the rear plus the gmc will be slightly lower on the left side.
Not sure I made it clear that not only will I be hooking/unhooking at an angle, but the 5th wheel will be on level ground & my gmc will be on a sloped driveway with the front end lower than the rear plus the gmc will be slightly lower on the left side.
ParkIt
Well-known member
Re: backing, hooking/unhooking 5 er
Not sure if this is a solution but maybe you can put cement blocks down with 2x8 planks for the truck tires in front. You may have to back up on them like a ramp then add more height when you pull out? On second thought, that sounds too dangerous.
Since you are doing construction, check to see if any local contractors have a mover (it looks like a fork lift or is one but a receiver can be put on it instead) and see if they can put it where you need it instead. I forget what they heck they are called though most equipment companies will know what you are talking about.
Not sure if this is a solution but maybe you can put cement blocks down with 2x8 planks for the truck tires in front. You may have to back up on them like a ramp then add more height when you pull out? On second thought, that sounds too dangerous.
Since you are doing construction, check to see if any local contractors have a mover (it looks like a fork lift or is one but a receiver can be put on it instead) and see if they can put it where you need it instead. I forget what they heck they are called though most equipment companies will know what you are talking about.
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: backing, hooking/unhooking 5 er
With the truck nose down, and turned to one side, you'll also be reducing clearance between pinbox and bed rails, and possibly between the bottom of the front cap and the bed rails. And if the truck's not level you'll be testing the hitch's ability to release and lock.
Small angles and slight differences in the slope will work.
Maybe you can do some landscaping.
With the truck nose down, and turned to one side, you'll also be reducing clearance between pinbox and bed rails, and possibly between the bottom of the front cap and the bed rails. And if the truck's not level you'll be testing the hitch's ability to release and lock.
Small angles and slight differences in the slope will work.
Maybe you can do some landscaping.
dewwood
Well-known member
Re: backing, hooking/unhooking 5 er
One other thing to be aware of when hooking or unhooking at an angle is the amount of side pressure you are putting on the trailer landing gear. I have seen trailer legs collapse when hitching from an angle like you are talking about. If it is possible to lift the pin of the trailer out of your jaws before moving the truck that will help but often the jaws will be in a bind when in that situation. When hooking up back under pin until it is supported by the plate of your TV hitch then raise the landing gear a little bit to transfer weight on to the hitch before backing all the way into the pin to close the jaws.
One other thing to be aware of when hooking or unhooking at an angle is the amount of side pressure you are putting on the trailer landing gear. I have seen trailer legs collapse when hitching from an angle like you are talking about. If it is possible to lift the pin of the trailer out of your jaws before moving the truck that will help but often the jaws will be in a bind when in that situation. When hooking up back under pin until it is supported by the plate of your TV hitch then raise the landing gear a little bit to transfer weight on to the hitch before backing all the way into the pin to close the jaws.
Schultz14
Member
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
Galnelson, you said “slight incline” and then leveling out. I don’t see a problem. We park ours on an incline and unhitch while at an angle. You can’t tell from the pic but it’s not a straight shot, I have to come in at an angle. No problem hitching back up and pulling out at an angle either. My 2 cents.</SPAN>
Galnelson, you said “slight incline” and then leveling out. I don’t see a problem. We park ours on an incline and unhitch while at an angle. You can’t tell from the pic but it’s not a straight shot, I have to come in at an angle. No problem hitching back up and pulling out at an angle either. My 2 cents.</SPAN>
JanAndBill
Well-known member
"With the truck nose down, and turned to one side, you'll also be reducing clearance between pinbox and bed rails, and possibly between the bottom of the front cap and the bed rails"
Right now this is a significant problem with my current parking spot. Because of space I have to jack the trailer in and down a slope. In this position I have to be very careful and proceed slowly because my clearance is just over an inch. Once I get my final layer of gravel and paving down it won't be as much of a problem.
Right now this is a significant problem with my current parking spot. Because of space I have to jack the trailer in and down a slope. In this position I have to be very careful and proceed slowly because my clearance is just over an inch. Once I get my final layer of gravel and paving down it won't be as much of a problem.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
If you're just going to park it at that site and leave it until the house is done, why not just remove the gate entirely and put it back after you've parked. Avoid the gymnastics. Might take a photo of the truck/trailer configuration once you get it positioned before you unhitch so you'll know how to angle/align it when you want to pull it away.
If you're just going to park it at that site and leave it until the house is done, why not just remove the gate entirely and put it back after you've parked. Avoid the gymnastics. Might take a photo of the truck/trailer configuration once you get it positioned before you unhitch so you'll know how to angle/align it when you want to pull it away.
Re: hooking/unhooking at an angle
I know what you mean, my 5 er fills all of my drive way the front legs sit right at the edge of the concrete. From there to the paved road is some stone, grass and hard packed dirt that has washed out runs in it. When I back in or pull out at to sharp of an angle the tv is lower than the drive. The fiber glass cover on the hitch area of the 5 er will scrape the top of the bed rails. The only thing saving the paint is the diamond plate aluminum bed rail covers. Got to get the rest of the drive way finished with either rock or concrete.
I know what you mean, my 5 er fills all of my drive way the front legs sit right at the edge of the concrete. From there to the paved road is some stone, grass and hard packed dirt that has washed out runs in it. When I back in or pull out at to sharp of an angle the tv is lower than the drive. The fiber glass cover on the hitch area of the 5 er will scrape the top of the bed rails. The only thing saving the paint is the diamond plate aluminum bed rail covers. Got to get the rest of the drive way finished with either rock or concrete.
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