Ventured into the satellite world and so far a bit disappointed

Theresau

Well-known member
Are you viewing Settings/Satellite/View Signal Strength to see your signal stength?

It may go to search right off - you can force it to settings by pushing menu and then selecting Settings from there.

If you've gone too far, you will have to reset using the red button and then push menu.

You can then turn the satellite minutely and the signal strength will change. It's touchy...but this will at least give you an idea of your strength...



So, my first attempt - fail.

Last week I added all new coax for the main, bedroom and basement TV, using the correct DirecTV splitter, power inserter and hints from some SAT experts.

The one thing I didn't think to do before leaving the house was to plug the dish on the house roof into the trailer to make sure everything works.

Now have my Genie receiver hidden behind the TV. All the new remotes are RF capable, this is good since the receive is pretty big. The Genie client is hidden in the bedroom cabinet also.

I had all my DVR stuff available (unlike cable boxes) and was fine with that until I tried to add the dish outside.

Now I am stuck in the search mode - and using an iPhone compass is not the best resource.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The one thing I didn't think to do before leaving the house was to plug the dish on the house roof into the trailer to make sure everything works.
Duane, unfortunately it's hard to tell whether the problem is in the aiming, or in the wiring. So yes, running a known good signal to test the wiring would take away the possibility of a wiring issue. But since you didn't do that, the next best choice is to run a wire directly from the dish to the receiver, with just the power inserter and splitter in between. That would let you get the aiming settled without any wiring complications. Then you can go back and see if it still works with your final wiring setup.
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
So, my first attempt - fail.

Last week I added all new coax for the main, bedroom and basement TV, using the correct DirecTV splitter, power inserter and hints from some SAT experts.

The one thing I didn't think to do before leaving the house was to plug the dish on the house roof into the trailer to make sure everything works.

Now have my Genie receiver hidden behind the TV. All the new remotes are RF capable, this is good since the receive is pretty big. The Genie client is hidden in the bedroom cabinet also.

I had all my DVR stuff available (unlike cable boxes) and was fine with that until I tried to add the dish outside.

Now I am stuck in the search mode - and using an iPhone compass is not the best resource.

Duane, a couple of things to look for... 1) If you are using the SWM link between your dish and your HR-34 receiver, you have to use the satellite setting specs for SWM for locating your 101 satellite which are different then for a regular dish. 2) Double check that the SWM RG-6 wire coming into the RV is going into the power inverter through the "in" (ID'ed as red inside threads) and "out" (also red inside male threads) to the receiver. 3) You have to go into your receiver and reconfigure your settings on what type of dish you are using and how many inputs you will be using then you need to reboot the reciever afterwards. All three of these will stop you from getting a good enough signal to be able to lock on properly.
 

porthole

Retired
Duane, unfortunately it's hard to tell whether the problem is in the aiming, or in the wiring. So yes, running a known good signal to test the wiring would take away the possibility of a wiring issue. But since you didn't do that, the next best choice is to run a wire directly from the dish to the receiver, with just the power inserter and splitter in between. That would let you get the aiming settled without any wiring complications. Then you can go back and see if it still works with your final wiring setup.

Dan, I put the splitter behind the basement wall. Although I could probably get to it through my access port - it just isn't important enough with the weather that it can't wait until we are home. Unlike most campgrounds, cable is pretty good here, 50+ channels (NY Rally, Verona)

COAX is an unknown. Although the factory wiring is a brand name I am not sure as to it's makeup. SWM systems need a 100% copper center conductor to work. I didn't change "all" the cable.
 

porthole

Retired
Jerry - my wiring is:

COAX in from antenna to the UDC port.
Then to the red "in" port of the splitter.
Red out port goes to the power inserter.
Power inserter "IRD" port is capped with a 75 ohm terminator.

3 remaining ports of the 4 way go to the 3 TV locations.
Main TV has the Genie receiver, bedroom has a Genie client.

This was the recommended wiring by several SAT experts
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
Jerry - my wiring is:

COAX in from antenna to the UDC port.
Then to the red "in" port of the splitter.
Red out port goes to the power inserter.
Power inserter "IRD" port is capped with a 75 ohm terminator.

3 remaining ports of the 4 way go to the 3 TV locations.
Main TV has the Genie receiver, bedroom has a Genie client.

This was the recommended wiring by several SAT experts

Sounds like the wiring is okay. I didn't change out all my existing RG 6 wiring either and had no issues. One of my coworkers has the HR-34 and continued to have problems after they installed it with receiving channels and DTV found the receiver hadn't been properly updated with software that was required once set up and ready for first time use.
Are you using the 3 lnb oval SWM dish. What meter are you using to lock on to you signal?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC
 

porthole

Retired
Sounds like the wiring is okay. I didn't change out all my existing RG 6 wiring either and had no issues. One of my coworkers has the HR-34 and continued to have problems after they installed it with receiving channels and DTV found the receiver hadn't been properly updated with software that was required once set up and ready for first time use.
Are you using the 3 lnb oval SWM dish. What meter are you using to lock on to you signal?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC



Jerry, The receiver was set up and working for a week in the house. Using the same type of antenna that is mounted on the house, the HD SWM slim oval. The installer put together a seperate antenna for me along with a power inserter and splitter.

Meter? What meter?

What would help is if all the diagnostic screens actually did a self test out to the LNB and back.
 
Last edited:

jbeletti

Well-known member
SWM systems need a 100% copper center conductor to work...

Duane - I've haven't heard of this requirement. A 100% copper center conductor would be an expensive wire that is more commonly used in baseband video applications. A copper "clad" steel center conductor is the norm in 75 ohm drop wire for RF at TV frequencies ride on the outside of the conductor (skin effect) and not across the entire cross-section. Coax used for satellite TV should be spec'd to a bandpass of 2200 MHz (2.2 GHz).

If some entity is recommending solid copper, maybe they are just stating what would be "ideal", though not practical.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
ter.

Meter? What meter?
What are you using to find the satellite?
I just upgraded to the SWM and the installer told me that the sat finders will not work with the SWM. You must use a non SWM LNB with your sat finder to lock onto sat 101.
I haven't tried it yet, but that is on the list for this afternoon.
I've not had a problem finding a bird with my old 5 LNB, so that is what I will continue to use to lock on and then swap back SWM for fine tuning.
I think that Danemayer does it that way.

Peace
Dave
 

Theresau

Well-known member
I just feel a need to say this again - a meter is not needed. (Won't say it again after this :)) You just need to get coordinates from Directv's satellite settings per the zip code - set those up - and then go to the Directv satellite settings again to monitor satellite strength. Once we set up the dish per the coordinates, it has never taken more than a couple of minutes for us to get 80's and 90's and up on satellite 101 - I then do a quick check on the other satellites and then press continue, etc. and we're a go...................................

We have had success doing this for a couple of years now - the only time we had an issue was the first time we used our Slimline SWM dish that had been installed by Directv - we used a meter.... We kept finding other satellites instead of Directv - very frustrating. (This happened at the 2011 Goshen rally....)

We have found this dish to be very forgiving - easily gets a connection - we've had solid trees to our south and gotten a great connection and at the recent rally there were coaches very close and south of us - we actually got some 100's that time on 101 and great connection on the others.

Theresa



What are you using to find the satellite?
I just upgraded to the SWM and the installer told me that the sat finders will not work with the SWM. You must use a non SWM LNB with your sat finder to lock onto sat 101.
I haven't tried it yet, but that is on the list for this afternoon.
I've not had a problem finding a bird with my old 5 LNB, so that is what I will continue to use to lock on and then swap back SWM for fine tuning.
I think that Danemayer does it that way.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
What are you using to find the satellite?
I just upgraded to the SWM and the installer told me that the sat finders will not work with the SWM. You must use a non SWM LNB with your sat finder to lock onto sat 101.
I haven't tried it yet, but that is on the list for this afternoon.
I've not had a problem finding a bird with my old 5 LNB, so that is what I will continue to use to lock on and then swap back SWM for fine tuning.
I think that Danemayer does it that way.

Peace
Dave

You're right Dave. I aim with the old multi-switch LNB and then plug in the SWM LNB. My Tracker Plus meter is supposed to also work with SWM LNBs, but it doesn't. The retailer says that there are so many LNBs from different sources, that it's likely that some don't work with the meter.

There are some next generation <$100 meters and I'm wondering if they do better with SMW LNBs. Maybe as more get deployed we'll find out.
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
I just feel a need to say this again - a meter is not needed. (Won't say it again after this :)) You just need to get coordinates from Directv's satellite settings per the zip code - set those up - and then go to the Directv satellite settings again to monitor satellite strength. Once we set up the dish per the coordinates, it has never taken more than a couple of minutes for us to get 80's and 90's and up on satellite 101 - I then do a quick check on the other satellites and then press continue, etc. and we're a go...................................

We have had success doing this for a couple of years now - the only time we had an issue was the first time we used our Slimline SWM dish that had been installed by Directv - we used a meter.... We kept finding other satellites instead of Directv - very frustrating. (This happened at the 2011 Goshen rally....)

We have found this dish to be very forgiving - easily gets a connection - we've had solid trees to our south and gotten a great connection and at the recent rally there were coaches very close and south of us - we actually got some 100's that time on 101 and great connection on the others.

Theresa

No, a meter isn't necessary but it sure makes it alot easier to lock on to the strongest signal possible without having to walk back and forth to the TV or a two person operation...
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I just feel a need to say this again - a meter is not needed. (Won't say it again after this :)) You just need to get coordinates from Directv's satellite settings per the zip code - set those up - and then go to the Directv satellite settings again to monitor satellite strength. Once we set up the dish per the coordinates, it has never taken more than a couple of minutes for us to get 80's and 90's and up on satellite 101 - I then do a quick check on the other satellites and then press continue, etc. and we're a go...................................

We have had success doing this for a couple of years now - the only time we had an issue was the first time we used our Slimline SWM dish that had been installed by Directv - we used a meter.... We kept finding other satellites instead of Directv - very frustrating. (This happened at the 2011 Goshen rally....)

We have found this dish to be very forgiving - easily gets a connection - we've had solid trees to our south and gotten a great connection and at the recent rally there were coaches very close and south of us - we actually got some 100's that time on 101 and great connection on the others.

Theresa

Theresa:
I think the magic word for me in your quote is "We". Can you still do this with ease if you are just a "ME"?

I have high hopes for my new $60 meter that I can choose any satellite up there and see its signal strength and signal quality. I tried it on my home hookup and was able to see the strength and quality on all 3 of the Dish Network satellites. I have a Loners on Wheels campout next week and I will be able to give it a field trial on my tripod dish.
 

Theresau

Well-known member
You can check the signal strength with sound as well which would help if doing alone (Directv) - sound is similar to that of the meter and would be accurate as it would only find Directv....

We started out using the meter and then realized we were taking an extra step and sometimes with false results. (At times we've had many false results...)

Not sure about what Dish provides in regard to checking signal strength via the TV....

Have fun at the campout........

Theresa:
I think the magic word for me in your quote is "We". Can you still do this with ease if you are just a "ME"?

I have high hopes for my new $60 meter that I can choose any satellite up there and see its signal strength and signal quality. I tried it on my home hookup and was able to see the strength and quality on all 3 of the Dish Network satellites. I have a Loners on Wheels campout next week and I will be able to give it a field trial on my tripod dish.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Theresau,

I'm a little confused. Your signature line says you have a Winegard DirecTV Traveler. Isn't that auto-aiming? Do you also have a dish that mounts on a tripod that gets aimed manually?
 

szewczyk_john

Well-known member
I bowed out of this thread because I have no experience with DirectTv and my comments were about Dish Network. You guys sure make my experiences with Dish all that more enjoyable. I never had this many issues with dish when I was finding the sats manually. Now with the carryout, all I have to due is wire it up, run a check switch screen and wait for the guide to download. To be honest it took a little time to learn the proper procedure but it sure is a breeze now. Seems a lot easier than all the problems I see posted here.
 

Theresau

Well-known member
Just got it at the rally......and yes it's a wonderful thing. Joe especially likes :). I think I started posting on this thread before we got it... We had the Slimline dish for the coach since 2011.

Hi Theresau,

I'm a little confused. Your signature line says you have a Winegard DirecTV Traveler. Isn't that auto-aiming? Do you also have a dish that mounts on a tripod that gets aimed manually?
 

jassson007

Founding Louisiana Chapter Leaders-Retired
I bowed out of this thread because I have no experience with DirectTv and my comments were about Dish Network. You guys sure make my experiences with Dish all that more enjoyable. I never had this many issues with dish when I was finding the sats manually. Now with the carryout, all I have to due is wire it up, run a check switch screen and wait for the guide to download. To be honest it took a little time to learn the proper procedure but it sure is a breeze now. Seems a lot easier than all the problems I see posted here.

I have a travel'r now as well with directv but did have a manual sl3 dish and it usually only took me about 5 or 10 min to get it pointed and this was with just the meter on the tv. Usually I would have the DW telling me percent but if I was alone I could still get it done same way but would take more time walking back and forth. I had a meter on my old sd dish but never could get it to work but it was the cheap one CW sells...lol.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

porthole

Retired
Duane - I've haven't heard of this requirement. A 100% copper center conductor would be an expensive wire that is more commonly used in baseband video applications. A copper "clad" steel center conductor is the norm in 75 ohm drop wire for RF at TV frequencies ride on the outside of the conductor (skin effect) and not across the entire cross-section. Coax used for satellite TV should be spec'd to a bandpass of 2200 MHz (2.2 GHz).


If some entity is recommending solid copper, maybe they are just stating what would be "ideal", though not practical.


Jim,
What I have found, if correct, is that the SWM systems need 100% copper center conductor.
The reason being is that the SAT signal is carried on the outside, skin effect as you mention.
Because of this it allows the power to the LNB to be carried "through" the conductor, thus allowing a "SWM - single wire". The single wire being the single COAX run. Copper clad conductor does not allow the LNB current to be carried - so I was told

You're right Dave. I aim with the old multi-switch LNB and then plug in the SWM LNB. My Tracker Plus meter is supposed to also work with SWM LNBs, but it doesn't. The retailer says that there are so many LNBs from different sources, that it's likely that some don't work with the meter.

There are some next generation <$100 meters and I'm wondering if they do better with SMW LNBs. Maybe as more get deployed we'll find out.


Dan, using meters with SWM's require power to the LNB. There is at least one commercially available meter that supplies the proper voltage to the LNB for satellite searching. 21 volts is the number IIRC
I think some of the meters only output 18 volts, so they don't work properly with the newest systems.

Some other meters are sold with a power inserter and splitter to allow powering and searching with only a a single tool (a meter).

Your Tracker Plus should work as long as you add a power inserter.
Scroll ddown about half way of this page:

http://www.satpro.tv/tracker-light-meter.aspx
 
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