What did I do wrong

What did I do wrong - fixed

Ok. I'll try and keep this short. We used our rig two weeks ago. When we were packing up I pumped the pink stuff into all the lines. I drained dumped all tanks and drained the fresh tank. Got to the rig yesterday and could not get water to run so I could flush the lines. The hose from spigot to rig was clear. I also could not get water to fresh tank. Clearly there is some ice in a line. I have the yeti package but I am not turning on the tank pads because other than a cupful of the pink stuff they are empty. I have the water line heater on but that only heats the line from the fresh tank to the system and if no water is getting into the system ... I tried turning the Anderson valve to winterized and sucking in some warm/hot water but although I could hear the pump running there was no suction. So, what did I miss when I winterized that allowed ice to form? My rig has been at the same spot here in Colorado since November. I've winterized and de winterized multiple times with no problem but .... Oh, I've been running the propane heater non stop for about 12 hours now. During that time inside temp has moved up from -13 (yes minus 13) to 62. So the underbelly has been getting a steady blast of warm air for quite a while now.

update: used the blow dryer, solved the problem. Next need to get small temp controlled heater to keep behind the wall.

Hey Tom (new Gm) while you are looking how to upgrade the Landmark, please look at how heat is distributed in the belly. The back side of the UDC should not need the owner to put in aux heat to thaw the lines after winterizing.

Did you pull anti freeze thru the outside shower?

Ronn,

Sounds like the point that's common to the 3 failures is the Anderson valve. Here's a diagram of the Anderson valve.

There's a section of the city water feed that looks like it wouldn't be either evacuated or filled with antifreeze coming through the pump. After finishing with the antifreeze, you might try draining that by pressing the check valve button on the water hose inlet. I'm not sure what the Anderson valve designer intended relative to winterization, but it looks to me like a possible trouble spot.

The section of hose from the valve to the fresh tank would hopefully drain when you open the fresh tank drain valve. As long as there's no low spot in the hose routing, that should work.

You might consider using compressed air to evacuate the lines.

In the meantime, if the backside of the valve is where it's frozen, you'll probably want to take down the basement wall and run a hairdryer on the back of the valve and hoses. Probably take 5-10 minutes to defrost. Not a lot of furnace heat gets to that area, and the cold air on the other side of the UDC counters any furnace heat.

danemayer said:

You might consider using compressed air to evacuate the lines.

Click to expand...

I agree. I have been using this method for years and never had ice in the lines...but then it does not get in the single digits much in my area as it does in others. Using compressed air before filling with the antifreeze should work great.