2014 3755FL new owner.

scubabri

Member
I just purchased a used 2014 3755FL. Generally the RV is in good condition, but there are a couple concerns and questions.

1st question, it looks like the water heater (suburban) has leaked and the "tab" between the frame and the body has rusted. Can this rusted area be cut away and treated?
2nd question, the paint has the makings of oxidation and the decals are fading. I'll be storing this outside, is there recommendations for removing the oxidation, restoring some of the shine and applying a UV protectant?
3rd question, the rubber roof has quite a bit of black spots but appears to be in good condition. Other than a good scrubbing, is there any way to remove the black spots?
4th question, the AC portion of the water heater does not work. The previous owner said that she heard a "popping" sound and smelled smoke, the AC breaker was tripped. My understanding is that there is a relay that is activated which presents voltage to the water heater, I have verified that there is no voltage at the water heater. Does anyone know where this relay is located?

5th question, the rear bedroom emergency exit window latch doesnt have enough bite to latch securely. Once the coach flexes, this delatches and the window opens, flapping in the wind as I'm driving. It doesnt appear there is any adjustment for this. Recommendations to fix this?
6th question, when opening or closing the slides, I've been stopping when I hear the motor change speed. Is there a recommended practice for opening and closing the slides?

I'll have more questions as I go.

thanks for everyone's help in advance.

Brian
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi scubabri,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

On the "tab" under the water heater, if you're talking about a frame reinforcement, I would treat/remove the rust and re-coat.

On the water heater electric, there's a junction box on the inside front, top corner of the water heater where the electrical wires from the coach connect to the wires for the heater. The wire nut may have come loose allowing the wires to short against the box. As for the relay, you may or may not have one. If the electric operation is controlled by a wall-type light switch that illuminates (although the failure may keep yours from lighting up), the switch is carrying 120V AC direct from the circuit breaker to the junction box on the water heater. If you have a small rocker switch, it's probably carrying 12V DC from the fuse box to activate a relay that switches the 120V AC that goes to that junction box. On a 2014, the relay could be located behind the control panel. But the wiring in the junction box is the typical failure. Or it could be a shorted heating element. The relay is unlikely.

On operating the slides, when the motor starts to "lug", you should release the button right away. The lugging noise indicates that the motor is straining because the slides are at the end of their range of motion. If you hold the button down, you'll overheat the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker and that may set you up for future problems where slides start and stop and start and stop. We have a user guide that covers that scenario: Slide Out Starts and Stops.

I expect you'll get some recommendations on your other questions from other owners who are quick to share what they've learned.
 
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