nail/staple gun

[jmgratz]

I am about to buy a nail-staple gun. Need some recommendations and suggestions. Should I get a
1 - battery operated or air compressor operated or electric operated?
2. What size should I get?
3 Any brand recommendations.
4. Any other considerations

Some considerations are: I do carry an air compressor that is capable of producing 120 psi. I have never used on. I plan on using it for repairs on the RV (our Landmark) mainly but could use it for light repairs on our manufactured home. I plan on carrying the tool with us on our travels so size could be an issue. I an not a contractor so I don't need a professional heavy roofing gun.

Jim B. I know you have one and use it frequently. What do your have?

Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Jim, I have Husky HDN104. It came with the first small compressor I bought. It does both staples and brads but only 1.25" brads. At times I would like to have had a longer brad. I would go pneumatic if I were you. Electrics just don't have the power. Pneumatics also have more features/adjustments.

 

[Bighurt]

As a Contractor I have a varied array of guns, all made by Bostitch. Most would be usless for you, Framers, Cap stapler, pin nailer (maybe), and of course the coil roofer. However the brad staplers are versatile tools the most being the combo, I have their SB-2IN1 along with a few other dedicated brad nailers.

The nice thing about the combo tool is it shoots Brads and Staples. The 18 gauge brads are small enough to hide and the staples are virtually the same.

Specifics;
<table class="bodListView" border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td>Weight</td> <td>2.6 lbs, 1.18 kilos</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Driving Power</td> <td>135 Inch Lbs.</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Magazine Capacity</td> <td>100 Brads or 100 Staples
Fastener Range: 5/8" to 1-5/8" 18GA brads
100 1/2" to 1-1/2" 18GA staples</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Operating Pressure</td> <td>70-100 PSI</td></tr></tbody></table>
Applications;

• Interior finish and trim
• Exterior finish and trim
• Furniture
• Cabinet work
• Staircases
• Paneling
• Crafts

Mine has lasted a long time, and I love it.

Jeremy

 

[Recovered from 25-May-2010]

Jim,

I have a brad nailer that shoots up to 2" brads. I wanted the combo (brads/staples) but as Ray mentioned, the combos don't typically accommodate the longer brads. Here's a link to the details of what I use. I keep it in a tool cabinet on the truck, that way I have it at home if needed as well.

Interesting story, a couple years ago, I made a doggy ramp so puppies could make it up and down from our tall full-king bed at home. I used small lumber and thin plywood. I cut all the pieces and planned to glue and screw it. Well, I began assembly with the glue and decided to pin it in place with brads, using the brad nailer. Man I'll tell you what, when that Gorilla Glue was hard, there was NO NEED for screws! That saved some weight So, better living with brad nails and Gorilla Glue. That's my story

 

[jmgratz]

Thank yall for the info. Kinda gives me some direction.

 

[BillandKathy]

I’ve been using this one in my woodshop (hobbyist) for three or four years without any problems. And if anything happens to it you’re not out a lot of money.

 

[JohnDar]

A word of advice for those using and not familiar with brad and pin nailers. Be EXTREMELY careful where you place your fingers and how you hold pieces to be joined. Thin gauge brads, staples and pins can and will bend and follow wood grain. It is a common injury to have the fastener break the surface of the wood right where a finger is holding it. Plywood is notorious for it. Not presenting the nailer perpendicular to the entry surface will almost guarantee it. Pre-plan your shots and position your grip accordingly.

 

[Bighurt]

A word of advice for those using and not familiar with brad and pin nailers. Be EXTREMELY careful where you place your fingers and how you hold pieces to be joined. Thin gauge brads, staples and pins can and will bend and follow wood grain. It is a common injury to have the fastener break the surface of the wood right where a finger is holding it. Plywood is notorious for it. Not presenting the nailer perpendicular to the entry surface will almost guarantee it. Pre-plan your shots and position your grip accordingly.

I've nailed myself to a project and stapled myself in the past, good advice.

Thankfully I haven't had the same with the framing nailer they can track with the grain too...but usually only with harder species. As for pins, well as the name suggests they have no head and are just a pin. Adjust the air pressure to high and miss the backing on thin wood and you might as well be shooting darts.

 

[JohnDar]

Fortunately for me, I learned the lesson without actual injury and read much about it later on a woodworking forum. The brad came up and out right next to my finger. Sure tightened up the sphincter muscles, though. Not to mention messing up the project a bit.

 

[newbie]

I have several nail guns and have been ruined because of them. Sometimes I use them even if I have to drive a single brad to fix a piece of trim. It is so much easier and fool proof than a hammer, nail and nail set.

John

 

[SilverRhino]

I've done finish carpentry and cabinet work for over 35 yrs. Nail guns are great when you're doing production work.....but nothing beats a good hickory handled hammer and nail set!

Just my observation

 

[jmgratz]

I've done finish carpentry and cabinet work for over 35 yrs. Nail guns are great when you're doing production work.....but nothing beats a good hickory handled hammer and nail set!

Just my observation

I agree but for some reason the wood in the RV is so hard I bend the nail every time I hammer one. I think a nail gun might work better.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I agree but for some reason the wood in the RV is so hard I bend the nail every time I hammer one. I think a nail gun might work better.

Jim, I've found that drilling a very small pilot hole really helps when going into hardwood. Plus, the nail goes where you want it to.

 

[SilverRhino]

Jim, I've found that drilling a very small pilot hole really helps when going into hardwood. Plus, the nail goes where you want it to.

Ray makes a good point.....

When working with hard woods it is always beneficial to drill a small pilot hole, whether nailing or screwing. It not only makes fastening easier, it will also help prevent splitting. Any piece of wood has an intrinsic force holding it together....when disturbed....the wood will split. Sometimes when ripping hard woods....they will literally explode on the table saw!

In the days before cordless drills, we used Yankee push drivers. They also made a small ratcheting hand push drill that was easy to carry in a nail apron. I have a wide variety of cordless tools......but I still prefer using my old Yankee drivers and drill....the batteries never run down and I get a little work out when using them!

Just my opinions and biases! ( What can I say....I like the "old" way of doing things )

 

[jmgratz]

All good suggestions that I had not thought about since I don't do woodwork that much. I will try the pilot hole. My problem I am trying to address is working in a tight space where I cannot swing a hammer so I think, the nail gun is the answer. What happened is, the bottom rear of the closet in the Landmark came loose. Now the floor in the back of the closet has about a 1 inch gap. I need to get it put back in place but am debating on whether I should have a repair shop fix it using my extended warranty or try to tackle it myself. Either way it means taking apart the back closet wall which is actually in the front of the RV. The part that is loose is so loose I can put my arm in there and feel the insulation behind the wall and the front cap of the RV. When I looked at it, I think the screws that was put in there to hold it originally never went into that part of the wood. The bottom of the wall where it meets the floor appears was never nailed or screwed. So that is what is going on. I should know more tomorrow because I am at Convenience RV/Repair Park that has an RV Park and Repair facility. I will be talking to the repair guy tomorrow anyway because the motor on the awning is messed up.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. Keep them coming. I am sure I am not the only one who needs this advise.

 

[newbie]

I have found that 1/4" staples are about 3 times stronger than brads. Staples are much harder to cover (putty) so you don't see them but many times you really have to look hard to see the indention. That is what I have used to fix several pieces of trim in our Landmark.

John