New User Guide - Water Systems Guide

danemayer

Well-known member
[h=2]New User Guide - Water Systems Guide [/h]
As part of our effort to create a library of User Guides and Troubleshooting Guides, I've just uploaded a new user guide to the User Guides subdirectory of the Manuals section of the forum.

The Water Systems Guide explains in detail how to operate and maintain the various parts of the water system on Heartland RVs. It also explains how to winterize the RV, including detailed information to winterize the washing machine and ice maker if you have them. There is also a section on protecting your water system when using the trailer during sub-freezing weather.

Here's a link to the folder containing the Water Systems Guide.
 

4ever

Well-known member
Dan,

Fantastic job. Looks very complete and will sure come in handy. Well done.

Ted
 

hwpryor

Member
Dan and Ann; This is a very useful guide, and it is well-written. I deal in technical data and training for fighter jets, and you have my respect. I have a 2011 Cyclone, and had a sediment build up in the fresh water line T-valve just before the water pump. I had been in Colorado and did not know I needed to flush the hard water after leaving the area. Now, I'd like to totally drain the fresh water tank and flush it. I have opened the low-point valves, but they only release a few gallons of water. My sensors indicate I still have a full tank. The factory customer service folks said there is a valve on the actual fresh-water tank, but I think it is covered by the underbelly insulation and pan. Do you know of a good way to drain the tank by myself? Thanks. Hersh
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi hwpryor,

Thanks for the kind words.

You should have a hose poking through the coroplast on the bottom of the unit, probably near the axles. That hose should have a valve on it to drain the fresh tank. I think some Cyclones have two fresh tanks that are interconnected, so you might have two drain hoses.

I think Heartland eliminated low point drains prior to 2011 models, so I'm wondering if the hoses you described as low point drains are actually the fresh tank drains.

If you have hoses sticking out the bottom near the axles, but they don't have valves, you might gently pull them down to see if perhaps the valve is on the other side of the coroplast.

One thing you can do is run the pump to empty the fresh tank(s). You probably have an external shower hookup, which would avoid pumping the water into your gray tanks. But if you have a dump facility at hand, it'd be fastest to run the shower and kitchen faucet until the pump runs dry.

If this all leaves you confused or uncertain about what's what, take some pictures from ground level so we can see the hoses that you have and where they're located.
 

hwpryor

Member
Thanks Dan. The low-point drains I have are forward of the front door, just under the basement. One hose is Blue and the other is Red, with a valve on each. The customer service rep said those are the low-point drains, and are pressurized. He also said I should find a drain back near the axles, but a quick look (lying on crushed rock in the dark is not the best work environment) did not reveal any apparent drains. I'll take another look with some appropriate matting and a flashlight this weekend. I'm just concerned that residual sediment in the tank (s) may cause a repeat of my clogged line problem. I can run the pump to empty the tank, but I'd rather open the drains and add fresh water at a reasonable rate to really flush the sediment out.
 

hwpryor

Member
Steve; The hot water tank has been drained and flushed. I'm just worried about sediment in the bottom of the fresh water tanks now. By the way, the sediment build up in the T-valve looked layers, almost like tree rings. At first I thought I had gotten mud daubers in there somehow. I'll go out this weekend and look for the drains again. If I find them, I'll try to post pictures and let you know how the draining water looks.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Version 1.1 of the Water Systems Guide has been posted. This version updates the instructions for winterizing the Splendide Stackable Washing Machine. Version 1 called for use of the Rinse Cycle. Version 1.1 uses the Permanent Press Cycle.

The rinse cycle does not operate the hot water solenoid and would result in an incomplete winterization. Thanks to Brian Harrison for passing that along.

Version 1.1 of the Winterizing Guide has also been posted and has the same changes.
 

thirdtimeround

Active Member
I have a 2014 3110 Cyclone and have one white hose under the docking center and a blue and red hose on the opposite side ( entrance door) front. They both poke thru the bottom about 6'' and have t-valves on them. I was told they are tank and line drains. My question is I have the Yeti/Artic PKG. How will these lines not freeze in the 0 degree or less weather claimed by this PKG? Wondering, Mike
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I have a 2014 3110 Cyclone and have one white hose under the docking center and a blue and red hose on the opposite side ( entrance door) front. They both poke thru the bottom about 6'' and have t-valves on them. I was told they are tank and line drains. My question is I have the Yeti/Artic PKG. How will these lines not freeze in the 0 degree or less weather claimed by this PKG? Wondering, Mike
Mike, the Yeti/Artic Pkg provides holding tank heating pads, heat tape on the fresh water feed line from the fresh tank to the pump, and extra insulating material in the front and rear caps.

The fresh tank overflow lines shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't overfill the fresh tank. The fresh tank drain line, which has a valve, can be a problem in sub-freezing weather. There is usually an inch or two of exposed drain pipe above the drain valve. Water in that section of exposed pipe will freeze and the ice can wick its way into the tee in the fresh water line, blocking the water feed to the pump. The heat tape on the fresh line may or may not effectively deal with the ice, depending on how cold it gets. The furnace pumps heated air into the underbelly to help with this also, but depending on the distance between the furnace duct and the tee in the water line, effectiveness can vary.

If you expect to be in 0 degree (F) or colder weather, I'd suggest putting heat tape on the fresh water drain line and insulating it.

We have other tips in our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide. Here's a link.
 

Gaffer

Well-known member
Picking up my new BH3750 on Wednesday and trading in my 3055. I have a question about the fresh water tank with the Anderson valve. How do you sanitize the fresh water tank when there is no gravity fill? The following is from the water systems guide but makes no mention of the new procedure:

Fresh Water TankHeartland recommends a solution of 1 gallon of water and ¼ cup of household bleach for each 15
gallons of tank capacity. A 90 gallon tank would take a mix of 6 gallons of water and 1 ½ cups of bleach.
1. Add the recommended solution to the fresh tank and complete filling the tank with fresh water.
2. With pump on, open all faucets to release trapped air. Close the faucets and allow the pump to
pressurize the system.
3. Let stand for 3 hours.
4. Drain and flush with fresh water.
5. A solution of 5 gallons of water with 1 quart vinegar may be used to eliminate excessive chlorine
taste. Allow the solution to agitate in the fresh tank by vehicle motion. Do this over a period of
several days if possible.
6. Drain the tank again and refill with fresh water.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Picking up my new BH3750 on Wednesday and trading in my 3055. I have a question about the fresh water tank with the Anderson valve. How do you sanitize the fresh water tank when there is no gravity fill? The following is from the water systems guide but makes no mention of the new procedure:
Hi Gaffer,

We've had some discussion about this on the forum and I think the best method I've heard is to


  1. Disconnect your water hose from the campground faucet and water inlet in the UDC and drain it.
  2. Use a funnel to fill the hose with the cleaning solution.
  3. Reconnect the hose to the campground water faucet and to the water inlet in the UDC
  4. Set the valve to TANK mode
  5. Turn on the campground faucet and use the water pressure to push the solution into the fresh tank.

Next time the guide is revised this'll be added, unless someone comes up with a better method in the meantime.
 
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dbbls59

Well-known member
1.Disconnect your water hose from the campground faucet and drain it. Leave the other end connected to the water inlet in the UDC.

Dan, you will never get water into the hose if you leave it connected to the water inlet at the UDC. You will need to disconnect this end also if you expect water to run into the hose.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
1.Disconnect your water hose from the campground faucet and drain it. Leave the other end connected to the water inlet in the UDC.

Dan, you will never get water into the hose if you leave it connected to the water inlet at the UDC. You will need to disconnect this end also if you expect water to run into the hose.
Probably right. I haven't tried it because I don't have the 4-way valve. I'll edit the prior post.
 

TedS

Well-known member
To sanitize: You just need to leave the hose connected to the supply faucet. The hose will naturally drain if you lay it on the ground. Pour the amount of bleach you need into the end of the hose. Connect the hose to the city water in the UDC. Set the valve to tank fill. Turn on the supply faucet and fill the fresh water tank. This way works, too, with the gravity fill( be careful about blowback ). Then turn the valve to normal and use the pump to put the bleach water from the fresh water tank into all the plumbing. Turn the pump on and open each faucet until you get the smell of bleach. Let the system set for four hours. Then dump the fresh water tank and refill it with fresh water. Turn the valve to normal. Flush the plumbing by opening the faucets. Done.
 

FredA

Member
Need info on the Atwood water heater plastic plug--what size socket do I get to remove it?...and can I use bleach to sanitize the water heater (I did with a steel tank), or do I need to use vinegar. Please assist this Heartland newbie:confused:

I'm a former Rpod owner, bought the Pioneer RB220 yesterday!
 
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danemayer

Well-known member
Former Rpod owner...now have Pioneer RB220. I can't figure out how to remove the cupboard drawers to get at the water pump for future winterization purposes...and can't figure out how to remove the pressure relief valve on Atwood water heater so I can add vinegar to sanitize the water. Also need socket size to remove plastic plug on water heater tank...and can I use bleach to sanitize the water heater (I did with a steel tank), or do I need to use vinegar. Sorry all the questions, can't find answers to any of them after perusing the forums. Please assist this Heartland newbie:confused:

Hi FredA,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. Drawers on rails usually have a small plastic lever on the rail. Open the drawer to expose the part of the rails that is attached inside the cabinet. On one side you push down and the other side pull up. Then pull the drawer out of the rails.

I don't think you need to remove the pressure relief valve on the water heater to sanitize the water system. Most people pour a diluted bleach mixture into the fresh tank and let it sit a while, then use the pump to flush the rest of the water system. If the water heater is in the normal operating mode, it'll also get the mixture. It might be good to let the water heater cool before running bleach through it.

If you have a rotten egg smell that you're trying to fix, the Atwood manual recommends a mixture of vinegar and water added through the pressure relief valve. I don't see any information stating the socket size. You might do best to just measure it with a ruler or measuring tape.
 

FredA

Member
Thanks, Dan....I figured out the cabinet rails, must be the 95 degrees inside that made the old brain work!

I am familiar and have experience sanitizing my system with the bleach mixture...but was wondering if bleach would create a problem in an aluminum (vs my old Rpod's steel) water tank?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks, Dan....I figured out the cabinet rails, must be the 95 degrees inside that made the old brain work!

I am familiar and have experience sanitizing my system with the bleach mixture...but was wondering if bleach would create a problem in an aluminum (vs my old Rpod's steel) water tank?

The Atwood documentation is silent on the subject of bleach. Since bleach is routinely used to sanitize the fresh tank and other components of the water system, I would think if it caused a problem they would have cautioned users to bypass the water heater when using bleach. The advice on a vinegar solution seems to be specific to the sulphur/rotten egg smell problem.
 
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