Project LM 365

What else is on that tank?
It has to be vented right? Maybe I don't understand the function of the under sink vents if there are also roof top vents?

The roof vent is for the tank itself, as I understand it, the stand-pipe under the sink is to keep the P-Trap from being sucked dry. I know in our Stick & Brick there is a trap like what Jerrod replaced for our basement wash basin (wash tub, whatever it is called). Before we had that put in, flushing a toilet upstairs resulted in the water from the P-trap being sucked out.

ksucats said:

The roof vent is for the tank itself, as I understand it, the stand-pipe under the sink is to keep the P-Trap from being sucked dry. I know in our Stick & Brick there is a trap like what Jerrod replaced for our basement wash basin (wash tub, whatever it is called). Before we had that put in, flushing a toilet upstairs resulted in the water from the P-trap being sucked out.

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Yes I believe you are right, I wasn't computing the p-trap as blocking the flow.

I do not have a vent and I also do not have a pee trap so I guess the sink drain is acting as the vent. So I would think there is nothing keeping the odors from coming up through the sink drain.






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Mystery solved, not sure how it relates to venting but your p trap is inline.
http://www.hepvo.com/

edit: After reading about it I'd say its a pretty novel idea, but it has to work.

Hmmm, now that is interesting. I'm going to have to check mine - I really thought we had to have P-Traps. I know that when we winterize we are advised to pour a cup or so of RV antifreeze into each drain so that it is in the P-Trap.

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CarterKraft - you were fast. That is an interesting piece of plumbing right there. Learn something new everyday!!

I was thinking that must be some sort of pee trap or a catch if you dropped something in there

Now that I'm thinking about it the other vent for that tank must be in the washer and dryer closet

It's not here but I bet it's behind the wall


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On to something new...
I have the Wilson phone boosters. One WeBoost in the RV and the powerful old 3G in the truck. The 3G unit in the truck will kill the trucks batteries in about 2 or 3 days if left on. While we're camping on the coast I use the trucks booster during the day and if I don't drive the truck it will bead dead.
So I ran to Ace hardware and picked up 20' of 12-3 wire, 1 male, & 1 female 7-way plug. I just used 2 of the wire's positive and negative only and made a 20' jumper to charge my truck batteries from my convertor in the RV



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jesstalkn said:

Dave I'm told the stock vents leak odors out and I've definitely been getting an odor inside after traveling and after dumping

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Bones said:

Well I have smelled odors on occasion. Maybe I should replace mine.

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I experienced the same thing in our last trip. I didn't realize the vent was under the bathroom sink????





Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

jesstalkn said:

On to something new...
jumper to charge my truck batteries from my convertor in the RV


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Won't work on the ford .....

Power247 said:

I experienced the same thing in our last trip. I didn't realize the vent was under the bathroom sink????


Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

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I have a vent in the Kitchen sink but don't remember one in the bathroom.

I looked at my pictures and no I don't have a vent in the bathroom

jesstalkn said:

I do not have a vent and I also do not have a pee trap so I guess the sink drain is acting as the vent. So I would think there is nothing keeping the odors from coming up through the sink drain.

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Jerrod - as I understand it, the Hepvo valve allows air and water to flow in one direction only. The bladder is normally closed, so gasses will not come out of it.

porthole said:

Won't work on the ford .....

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I didn't want to say anything because I figured he had already addressed that. It's a easy fix though on the older trucks just build a jumper for the relay 30-87 pins. You will lose the key off disconnect to the trailer, I never cared for that much anyway.
I assume the newer trucks still use the same relay.

Thank you both for that info. Now that I'm thinking about it I could use one of the up-fitter switches to trigger that relay. Then I could choose if I want to override the ignition cut off relay or not

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jesstalkn said:

Thank you both for that info. Now that I'm thinking about it I could use one of the up-fitter switches to trigger that relay. Then I could choose if I want to override the ignition cut off relay or not

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That's why your mods are the best, a total user experience. I think Ford should have wired it that way to begin with.

Thanks
Ford did do a cool thing with the 6 new up-fitter switches. They have 4 of the switches wired to the ignition and 2 #5 & #6 that are hot all the time. Or you can move 1 5amp fuse in the box and put all 6 switches to ignition only.
Pretty cool feature. It's a lot like the S-pod system I put in my Jeep. Adding on all of my gadgets and LED lights was a breeze. It all runs right to that box and you're done.
This is my #1 jeep Mod for sure.




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I installed 3 of the 360 Siphon vents this morning.
Not really impressed with how they went on. Maybe I have the wrong ones for my vent's. I have another one here that replaces the entire vent. But these 3 your just supposed to glue it on. So I figured I would try it and see if they survive. I think the truck wash will be the big test.
I used my portable band saw and cut off the top of the original vent so the new one will set right on top. Then I took a silicone adhesive and glued the heck out of everything. I glued the ring to the old vent, glued the center sleeve into the new vent, then glued the into the vent pipe and onto the upper ring.
Time will tell if I'll need to just replace them with the one that screws directly to the roof. I think it's a bit more work but your going to have a better end result.

The one on the left is the 3 I installed one on the right is the complete replacement vent



I have 1 more the my solar wires are going down into so I'll have to think about how I'm going to deal with it.

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jesstalkn said:

Thanks
Ford did do a cool thing with the 6 new up-fitter switches. They have 4 of the switches wired to the ignition and 2 #5 & #6 that are hot all the time. Or you can move 1 5amp fuse in the box and put all 6 switches to ignition only.
Pretty cool feature. It's a lot like the S-pod system I put in my Jeep. Adding on all of my gadgets and LED lights was a breeze. It all runs right to that box and you're done.
This is my #1 jeep Mod for sure.




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That's a really nice system, I am going to bookmark that for future use.

jesstalkn said:

I installed 3 of the 360 Siphon vents this morning.
Not really impressed with how they went on. Maybe I have the wrong ones for my vent's. I have another one here that replaces the entire vent. But these 3 your just supposed to glue it on. So I figured I would try it and see if they survive. I think the truck wash will be the big test.
I used my portable band saw and cut off the top of the original vent so the new one will set right on top. Then I took a silicone adhesive and glued the heck out of everything. I glued the ring to the old vent, glued the center sleeve into the new vent, then glued the into the vent pipe and onto the upper ring.
Time will tell if I'll need to just replace them with the one that screws directly to the roof. I think it's a bit more work but your going to have a better end result.

The one on the left is the 3 I installed one on the right is the complete replacement vent



I have 1 more the my solar wires are going down into so I'll have to think about how I'm going to deal with it.

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I don't think it's so bad but I certainly understand your concern.

I might want to use some of the SikaFlex products to glue it on vs. Silicone. I have not had much luck with Silicone actually attaching anything to anything, seems like you can always pull it off in 1 piece once it fails.
I recently used the 252 and it seems pretty bullet proof.