Project LM 365

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Here's all of the accessories​ that came in the Titan brake kit
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Plus the pump and 4 rotors, calipers and brakes

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Bones

Well-known member
Here's all of the accessories​ that came in the Titan brake kit
4ff040398ca85a9d5dba021fa4443cfb.jpg


Plus the pump and 4 rotors, calipers and brakes

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Have fun doing the install. post how you run your brake line. I may just put that in future notes.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Dave that's what I'm dragging my feet on I don't have it all worked out in my head yet. I plan on running the line high then dropping down between the axles and cutting across through the frame NOT going underneath the belly

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Bones

Well-known member
Some food for thought. Run the line along the bottom portion of your I beam web. If you do this you should avoid any slide out mechanical s which are usually located up higher. Once you reach the axles open the chloroplast in that area and figure out where to drill the hole through the frame to split the line and run to the other side
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Some food for thought. Run the line along the bottom portion of your I beam web. If you do this you should avoid any slide out mechanical s which are usually located up higher. Once you reach the axles open the chloroplast in that area and figure out where to drill the hole through the frame to split the line and run to the other side

Dave, Landmarks have the drop frame. When I do my BH install, I'll run the line along the top of the I beam so it's on the same plane as the rear framework. Then attach the line to the bottom of that frame and go from there.




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Bones

Well-known member
Dave, Landmarks have the drop frame. When I do my BH install, I'll run the line along the top of the I beam so it's on the same plane as the rear framework. Then attach the line to the bottom of that frame and go from there.




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I though you only drop in the front. So if you run along the top of the drop frame then you will be at the bottom of the upper frame
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Some food for thought. Run the line along the bottom portion of your I beam web. If you do this you should avoid any slide out mechanical s which are usually located up higher. Once you reach the axles open the chloroplast in that area and figure out where to drill the hole through the frame to split the line and run to the other side
Dave my thought is to go high along the top then mount the T fitting and drop down from the T fitting and across to the other side. I'm going to try and get it across with out dropping the corpilast.

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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Dave I went low on the I-beam can't really see it unless you look for it.
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I also had to use a 1/8" pipe to flare 90° here to keep it off of the propane tank

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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
They are tuff lines hard to make perfectly straight.
It will have to do.
The line they supply in there kit is not long enough to reach from one side to the other.
They mount there lines underneath and screw everything to the corpilast. NOT FOR ME !!!!
I have a 25' roll coming in to Napa auto parts Tomorrow morning then I'll make my own lines.


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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
These brakes still look brand new after almost 10,000 miles 1.5 years.
Not sure if the rest of them look this good yet..

If anyone around here wants all of the old parts the complete brake set, drums, and bearings you can have them. Just PM me.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I have 1 side done. I had to run get grade 8 fine therd bolts to mount the brackets. Heartland used grade 5
Then I ran out of day light for today. I spent most of my day chasing parts to do the job right.

Tomorrow we're putting the air bags and compressor on the new truck so I guess I'll finish this job Sunday.
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Last edited:

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
If you are cutting and flaring the brake lines, you are using a double flare, right?
Looks good.

Peace
Dave
 
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