Project LM 365

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 2, 2016

NO not on this unit. I had one on my toyhualer and loved it but the basement door was only about 14" tall so the pull out try was a must. However on this rig with the huge door and giant basement I think it would take away from my space . I am always climbing in and out of there doing work behind the basement wall and it would definitely be in my way.

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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 3, 2016

I had one of the slide out gear sets riding off to the side of the spline rail. I have been worried about it snapping the teeth of of the gear. So today I dropped it down and added some shims (washer's) on the left side to hold the gear in the right place. The rest of mine are fine it was just that one.
All went well and no more worry's.

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Bones · Apr 3, 2016

I wonder why it was out of alignment.

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 3, 2016

The gear and rollers can move side to side about 3/8 of an inch. I thinks it just slide over and stayed there. Now with the 3 washers in there it will hold it in place.

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jbeletti · Apr 4, 2016

Nice work on the gears Jerrod!

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 4, 2016

Thanks Jim
I know Dave Y. has a new set waiting for him when he gets back from Florida so I told him I would fix mine and post it.

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jbeletti · Apr 4, 2016

jesstalkn said:
Thanks Jim
I know Dave Y. has a new set waiting for him when he gets back from Florida so I told him I would fix mine and post it.

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Jinx - I already emailed him a link to your post with the fix pix

Thanks for always adding pics. You know what they say

hogan · Apr 4, 2016

Jerrod, I crawled under the rig today and checked/photographed the interaction of gear wheel to spline with slides out. None of mine were as off-center as the one in your photos, but the two on off door were hanging off the edge of the spline. Do you think that is enough to do the fix. I would rather put in some labor to prevent a malfunction down the road. what is your recommendation for spacers and washers? TIA Hogan

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 4, 2016

hogan said:
Jerrod, I crawled under the rig today and checked/photographed the interaction of gear wheel to spline with slides out. None of mine were as off-center as the one in your photos, but the two on off door were hanging off the edge of the spline. Do you think that is enough to do the fix. I would rather put in some labor to prevent a malfunction down the road. what is your recommendation for spacers and washers? TIA Hogan

As you can see in the picture mine was only running on 50% of the gear and 75% of the slid rail. So if yours is better then that it might be OK. Do you have a picture of yours ? I can give you my unprofessional opinion.

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 5, 2016

Just received my new Anderson valve from Heartland today.

But my trailer is in the shop for a few days for some warranty work.

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2psnapod2 · Apr 5, 2016

What was wrong with the original one?

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 5, 2016

It was leaking internally and kept filling up my fresh water tank when running on city water.

jbeletti · Apr 5, 2016

Jerrod - I've replaced those before. Probably take 15 minutes.

Tips?

Tools I used
- Channel Lock pliers
- Sharpie Marker
- Cell Phone Camera
- #2 Square bit screwdriver or screw gun and bit
- Towel

Process I used
- Turn coach water off
- Remove utility wall
- Place towel on floor behind UDC
- With Sharpie, mark each port on back of the 4-way valve and also mark the line connected to each port
- Take picture of back 4-way valve
- Using fingers/Channel Locks, remove all connections to back of 4-way valve
- Using #2 square drive screwdriver, remove all the screws from the front of the 4-way valve inside the UDC
- Remove 4-way valve, place new 4-way valve into position, replace screws
- Reconnect all connections on bac of 4-way valve
- Dry up floor, replace wall - open cold beverage and smile because you did another simple repair yourself and can now help others do the same

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 5, 2016

Thanks Jim
This one should be a breeze. I'm going to do some trouble shooting after get the wall down to confirm that it is really bypassing. Of course I'll give you all an update on my findings.

jbeletti · Apr 5, 2016

jesstalkn said:
Thanks Jim
This one should be a breeze. I'm going to do some trouble shooting after get the wall down to confirm that it is really bypassing. Of course I'll give you all an update on my findings.

Twice in 11 years with Landmarks, I've had the fresh water tank fill on its own. Once was caused by the water pump. Probably had dirt/debris in the diaphragm. The second time, I thought I had a bad Anderson Brass 4-way valve and I replaced it. Turns out, there was a small stone in the swing valve at the city water inlet on the valve. Pretty sure that was at least contributory to the issue. But I'll never know for sure as I noticed the rock stuck there only after the job was completed.

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Apr 6, 2016

Jim my thoughts on it being the pump is - with the Anderson valve set on "CITY" there should be no water going to OR coming from the pump. If my valve is on "CITY" and I turn my pump switch on, it will just run and run and never build pressure to shut off unless I switch it to "PUMP" so I'm ruling the pump out as a possibility. Correct me if I'm missing something.

Bones · Apr 6, 2016

I visited my trailer yesterday. It missed me.

danemayer · Apr 6, 2016

jesstalkn said:
Jim my thoughts on it being the pump is - with the Anderson valve set on "CITY" there should be no water going to OR coming from the pump. If my valve is on "CITY" and I turn my pump switch on, it will just run and run and never build pressure to shut off unless I switch it to "PUMP" so I'm ruling the pump out as a possibility. Correct me if I'm missing something.

Jerrod,

With the valve set to CITY, there's a secondary channel inside the valve that creates a path between the pump and the fresh tank. You can verify this by holding the valve under a faucet, directing the water into one of the side fittings. Water will come out the opposite side. The same is true when set to NORMAL.

The output of the pump is teed into the water distribution lines going to the faucets. So the pressure of city water can push water back through the tee, back through the pump (assuming the pump's internal check valve is partially open), and into the fresh tank.

When you're set on CITY, the pump should be able to pull water out of the fresh tank and route it to the faucets. If the path were blocked, it would be the same as closing the faucet, and the pump would shut off.

So if on CITY, your pump just runs continuously and never delivers water, there's probably an air leak on the suction side. But since the pump works ok when set to NORMAL, it's confusing.

Have you tried the pump, with 4-way valve set to NORMAL, both with city water connected, and with city water disconnected? And again set to CITY, with city water connected and then disconnected?

travelin2 · Apr 6, 2016

danemayer said:
When you're set on CITY, the pump should be able to pull water out of the fresh tank and route it to the faucets. If the path were blocked, it would be the same as closing the faucet, and the pump would shut off.

So if on CITY, your pump just runs continuously and never delivers water, there's probably an air leak on the suction side. But since the pump works ok when set to NORMAL, it's confusing?

This is correct. My Anderson valve is always in the CITY position even when dry camping. Without a water connection we can draw water from the FW tank by turning on the pump without changing positions on the Anderson valve.
The only time I change the valve position is when I fill the FW tank then I return it to CITY.
So that said, I would agree with Dan. A pump failure would fill the FW tank...

CarterKraft · Apr 6, 2016

danemayer said:
Jerrod,

With the valve set to CITY, there's a secondary channel inside the valve that creates a path between the pump and the fresh tank. You can verify this by holding the valve under a faucet, directing the water into one of the side fittings. Water will come out the opposite side. The same is true when set to NORMAL.

The output of the pump is teed into the water distribution lines going to the faucets. So the pressure of city water can push water back through the tee, back through the pump (assuming the pump's internal check valve is partially open), and into the fresh tank.

When you're set on CITY, the pump should be able to pull water out of the fresh tank and route it to the faucets. If the path were blocked, it would be the same as closing the faucet, and the pump would shut off.

So if on CITY, your pump just runs continuously and never delivers water, there's probably an air leak on the suction side. But since the pump works ok when set to NORMAL, it's confusing.

Have you tried the pump, with 4-way valve set to NORMAL, both with city water connected, and with city water disconnected? And again set to CITY, with city water connected and then disconnected?

travelin2 said:
This is correct. My Anderson valve is always in the CITY position even when dry camping. Without a water connection we can draw water from the FW tank by turning on the pump without changing positions on the Anderson valve.
The only time I change the valve position is when I fill the FW tank then I return it to CITY.
So that said, I would agree with Dan. A pump failure would fill the FW tank...

Good info guys, I really need to make or get a schematic for the valve troubleshooting that in the wild would be no fun.

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