Project LM 365

I did an update on the motion sensor and LED light strip inside the control cabinet.
I added it to the original post to make it easier to follow and make Less work for Dan and the index. ��
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php?p=486368

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This is a Update on a very old Mod that is still messing with me.
The Wilson Cell phone booster !!!!
When I'm in an area that has a OK signal "like home" it definitely boosts the signal. But here on the west coast which is the same place I had problems as last time, It's not working through the factory OTA TV/antenna coax. I ran a coax directly from booster antenna to the booster Is working fine. So now I'm thinking it might be because of the TV/cable switch in the bedroom cabinet. I will try to bypass it this week and report back.
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/54076-Project-LM-365?p=440965&viewfull=1#post440965

[url]https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/54076-Project-LM-365?p=468375&viewfull=1#post468375
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jesstalkn said:

Tom I found this kit on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WRDG9CQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The strip is adhesive backed so I just cleaned the lip of the I-beam up and gave it some fresh paint where needed and stuck it on. Time will tell how well that worked.
As for power, right now it is plugged in to my Awning receptacle right above my propane door. That's not a permanent option. I will probably switch it over to 12V and hard wire it in.

Click to expand...

Is the link correct, It shows indoor use only?

It's possible
It's probably just the power source is not wether proof. Time will tell. I'm going to switch to 12V power source soon

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Update on the Wilson cell booster.

I was not able to get a signal with the darn thing on the roof. It kept red lighting I think it was because the indoor antenna was in between the out side antenna and the cell tower. I finally removed the outside antenna from the roof and put it in a tree on the opposite side of our trailer and now it's working 100%. I went from 0% to 100% It has been a frustrating struggle but all is well again, just wish this was easier.
First one is the booster on i'm getting 100%


Booster off I'm getting nothing at all here.

Jerrod,

With the Wilson Booster, position your MiFi or Phone so it's not in constant contact with the cradle. An air gap is desirable. The Wilson units can get quite hot and it's thought possible they can damage devices sitting in certain positions in the cradle.

Dan my indoor antenna is the tower type. If I stay within 5 or so feet or less I have a good signal. I have noticed that things do go haywire one in a while and if I do a restart on my phone it fixes the problem. Might have something to do with what your saying.


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Update on Wilson cell phone booster.
I've had a challenging week with this booster. I had it working good for a few days with the RG6 coax running straight from the outdoor antenna in through the window to the booster. Then I decided try running it through the factory coax in the coach. I tried this and tried that nothing was working. So I gave up and ran it back through the window like it was. Still nothing.... "Panic set in" We are here 4 more days... our business runs from my phone !!!
I called Wilson from phone on my pickup booster. Patric from Wilson customer service was awesome. Although we can't fix my We-boost booster He is sending me a new booster, a new Outside antenna, and 50' of RG11 cable, all for free. I'm not sure if it's still under warranty or not. He didn't even ask how long I've had it.
Thanks Wilson Antenna's
Well to survive the rest of the week here and get some sleep at night (With our business my phone runs 24 hours a day 7 days a week) and the Trucks start about 1:00 am in the morning and some days that's when my calls start and some days go smooth and with no call all morning, You never know. Bottom line I have to have a phone signal.

I ended up removing the 3G booster out of my pickup and draping it from my pin-box to the basement then into my window of the bed room. Not my best installation job. LOL But Its working !!!!

That's some great service from Wilson. RG-11 coax is thick but will be your lowest loss "flexible" coax solution.

I'm struggling with the magnetic switches for the cabinets. How the heck do you wire them. I've burnt up two switches in 10 minutes so they are just always on now. I'm so confused... It's just 3 connections. I figured both grounds in the middle and hots on the outside. No combination I've tried so far works.


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Nbomar said:

I'm struggling with the magnetic switches for the cabinets. How the heck do you wire them. I've burnt up two switches in 10 minutes so they are just always on now. I'm so confused... It's just 3 connections. I figured both grounds in the middle and hots on the outside. No combination I've tried so far works.


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Click to expand...

OK - first, do NOT connect + and - DC power to the screw terminals of the switch. Think of it this way, you will direct wire both + and - DC to the light AND you will use the switch to "interrupt" the + side of the feed to the light. So that's it - just wire the + of the DC power feed to the switch and wire the other screw of the switch to the + of the light. Viola!

You only use 2 of the posts. One set is on when the magnets are touching. And other set is off when the magnets are touching each other.
So it can be wired normally open or normally closed.
Thus the 3 post !!!

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Can you draw a mini diagram showing me what you are talking about. I got one to work using all three posts. I had 5. I can't get the others to do anything but always on


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I wired the pantry off the switch on the existing light. At least I have light every level now. Simple stuff heartland could do to really wow people.


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If I can attach this quick finger drawing this should help.
I still have a horrible internet signal here at the campground.

Its not working

If you. Have the 2 wire run 12v wire you would cut the positive wire and hook one of wires to the common post and the other to NC (normally closed) post and the ground wire would go straight to the light.
Then when you separate the magnets the power will pass through the switch. When you put them back together the switch will open and turn off the light


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My persistence pays off


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Dish install
Part 1

I started the install on the Winegard SK-1000 TRAV'LER Gray/Black DISH Multi-Satellite TV Antenna today. Unfortunately I had to move my 2 solar panels but it wasn't to big of a job.
Today's accomplishments
1) Move the solar,

2) wash the area,
3) Place the backing plate and check clearances, I had Heartland send me the blue prints of the reinforcement structure in my LM 365 Ashland roof, however with the 32.5" radius that Winegard requires I'm only halfway on it. But beings I'm using the backing plate I will be fine.

4) Poke a tiny hole from inside through the roof, Tiny so as not to wad up the rubber roof.
5) Then from the outside I ran a 2-1/8" hole saw in revers to burn trough the rubber membrane then switch it to forward to drill trough,
6) I then pulled all of the wires up, There was about 10' to 15' of wire up there. Lots of extra.

7) I spent a bunch of time tracing that one 2 strand 12V wire and finally found that it ties into the TV antenna booster in the ceiling. I had to find out where it went. Still don't know what it's for though.
8) I have everything ready to hoist it up there tomorrow morning if I can rig up a pulley system on my big latter.

All that and UPS didn't bring it today. I had to run to there depot and pick it up.

Parts list from Amazon
Dish

Backing plate

Eternabond tape

Roller

Eternabond cleaner

Dicor self-leveling sealant

Great start on the dish install Jerrod. My guess is that the DC wires you found tied to the antenna booster is likely for use with non-Winegard antennas that don't use a data cable but still require DC power. I'll try to confirm this for others.

Make sense thanks Jim

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Jerrod, you didn't mention the temperature you were working in? Hot, hot, hot.

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