Wheel Chocks - The Real Deal

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
On our first travel trailer I used a pair of X chocks (not the extended version). For a test one day I set the chocks while hooked up to the truck. Put the truck in gear and just taking my foot off the brake was enough to have both chocks pop out. They really did nothing.

I do my pull test with my X-Chocks only and I don't have to pull the manual brake slider . . . the X-Chocks hold the Prowler in place.

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CoveredWagon

Well-known member
And when you back into the hitch to hook up and get that nice solid chunk letting you know all is well. What's keeping the trailer from moving backwards? Those little skinny legs that are designed to carry a load up and down, not sideways. No thanks, I always have chocks behind the wheels to absorb that movement. If the front of the trailer is down I'll have them in front too. Insurance.

And when you unhook on a slope you only have the 2 front legs keeping the trailer from moving. The other 4 are still up.

My 2 cents

Thats only one of the reasons I purchased the Andersen Ultimate hitch. No need to back in to get a nice solid clunk. Lower the trailer down, turn the lock and you're done. Oh and then I did pick up the H.F. $5 wheel chocks ��
 
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porthole

Retired
I do my pull test with my X-Chocks only and I don't have to pull the manual brake slider . . . the X-Chocks hold the Prowler in place.

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I did mention that the extended version is not the version I used. I never tried what you have. But I'm sure there is a reason BAL came out with the type you currently have.

My test was with my travel trailer and GMC 10+ years ago.

I did test the ROTOChok's with the much heavier Cyclone and the F-350 and they held fine.
 
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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
The X-Chocks I use with the Prowler are the same X-Chocks I had with our 2013 Heartland Trail Runner . . .

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