Wheel Chocks - The Real Deal

BigGuy82

Well-known member
OK, so it's not a sexy subject and most of us probably think a chunk of 4 x 4 does the trick (it doesn't). But when you park your RV on a sloping driveway like I do, this is an important topic. I can't tell you how many different ones I've tried - plastic (slides), rubber (but all hollow so they collapse), steel (bends) - it's a long list. Then I found these - you can use them on your RV or your 18 wheeler - either one won't be going anywhere:

chock.jpg

YM W4149 Laminated Rubber Wheel Chock - $36.47 (for one) on Amazon


It's made out of strips of solid reinforced rubber, has steel sides and a substantial handle, weighs 11 pounds and grips my asphalt driveway like it's welded in place. Last ones I'll ever need to buy.
 

IronJ

Well-known member
Dang 11 lbs...thats hefty!!...how many You use??..x chocks or anything else??

I got these from harbor freight...like 5$ with a coupon...no handle tho....so they can be a pain to yank out...they are like 5lbs...i have seen where people tie a rope to use as a handle...been too lazy to add any...lol

e1f1ecd7a6008649aef40f4ec87095ff.jpg



Never tried them on huge incline..i use 2...

I have crushed the lesser plastic and cheap metal ones as well...

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
OK, so it's not a sexy subject and most of us probably think a chunk of 4 x 4 does the trick (it doesn't). But when you park your RV on a sloping driveway like I do, this is an important topic. I can't tell you how many different ones I've tried - plastic (slides), rubber (but all hollow so they collapse), steel (bends) - it's a long list. Then I found these - you can use them on your RV or your 18 wheeler - either one won't be going anywhere:

View attachment 48783

YM W4149 Laminated Rubber Wheel Chock - $36.47 (for one) on Amazon


It's made out of strips of solid reinforced rubber, has steel sides and a substantial handle, weighs 11 pounds and grips my asphalt driveway like it's welded in place. Last ones I'll ever need to buy.

Maybe I could use those to balance out the trailer weight from one axle to the other . . . or one side to the other! :eek:
 

VMooreSR

Well-known member
X2 We use these also...

Dang 11 lbs...thats hefty!!...how many You use??..x chocks or anything else??

I got these from harbor freight...like 5$ with a coupon...no handle tho....so they can be a pain to yank out...they are like 5lbs...i have seen where people tie a rope to use as a handle...been too lazy to add any...lol

e1f1ecd7a6008649aef40f4ec87095ff.jpg



Never tried them on huge incline..i use 2...

I have crushed the lesser plastic and cheap metal ones as well...

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
Dang 11 lbs...thats hefty!!...how many You use??..x chocks or anything else??

I got these from harbor freight...like 5$ with a coupon...no handle tho....so they can be a pain to yank out...they are like 5lbs...i have seen where people tie a rope to use as a handle...been too lazy to add any...lol




Never tried them on huge incline..i use 2...

I have crushed the lesser plastic and cheap metal ones as well...

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish

I only need 2 and they hold the coach on my inclined driveway like it's welded in place.

- - - Updated - - -

Maybe I could use those to balance out the trailer weight from one axle to the other . . . or one side to the other! :eek:

I KNEW you'd figure out that whole axle camber thing ...
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
I've tried a couple of different types of chocks and I also love the ones from Harbor Freight.
 

IronJ

Well-known member
Ditto, $5 from Harbor Freight. Solid rubber. Keep them outdoors however as they have a bad odor.
The odor goes away....after a year....lol



sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 

jam20ster

Well-known member
Don't know why exactly but I've always been a X chock guy. I feel that is not only chocks the wheels but when snugged up takes a bit of bounce out of the RV. Even with the 6 point auto level I still use them.
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
Don't know why exactly but I've always been a X chock guy. I feel that is not only chocks the wheels but when snugged up takes a bit of bounce out of the RV. Even with the 6 point auto level I still use them.

With Snap Pads on the levelers, I don't even bother with chocks on a reasonabley level campsite - gravel, concrete or asphalt. With 15,000 lbs down on six legs that have rubber pads on the bottom, that coach isn't going anywhere. The only time I use chocks at all is when the site has noticeable slope and in my driveway that has a lot of slope. That's why I like these expensive but heavy duty (as in truck worthy) chocks. My RV isn't going to roll out into the street with these babies blocking the wheels. You're likely right about the bounce, but that never bothered us anyway.

In fact, it can be fun at times :rolleyes:
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
With Snap Pads on the levelers, I don't even bother with chocks on a reasonabley level campsite - gravel, concrete or asphalt. With 15,000 lbs down on six legs that have rubber pads on the bottom, that coach isn't going anywhere. The only time I use chocks at all is when the site has noticeable slope and in my driveway that has a lot of slope. That's why I like these expensive but heavy duty (as in truck worthy) chocks. My RV isn't going to roll out into the street with these babies blocking the wheels. You're likely right about the bounce, but that never bothered us anyway.

In fact, it can be fun at times :rolleyes:

And when you back into the hitch to hook up and get that nice solid chunk letting you know all is well. What's keeping the trailer from moving backwards? Those little skinny legs that are designed to carry a load up and down, not sideways. No thanks, I always have chocks behind the wheels to absorb that movement. If the front of the trailer is down I'll have them in front too. Insurance.

And when you unhook on a slope you only have the 2 front legs keeping the trailer from moving. The other 4 are still up.

My 2 cents
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
And when you back into the hitch to hook up and get that nice solid chunk letting you know all is well. What's keeping the trailer from moving backwards? Those little skinny legs that are designed to carry a load up and down, not sideways. No thanks, I always have chocks behind the wheels to absorb that movement. If the front of the trailer is down I'll have them in front too. Insurance.

And when you unhook on a slope you only have the 2 front legs keeping the trailer from moving. The other 4 are still up.

My 2 cents


Too each his own. Never been a problem - I find that if I line up perfectly (which is easy) and if I set the pin level correctly, I don't need to hit the pin hard and I can still hear a nice clunk. The next thing I do is insert the safety pin, so I know the hook-up is complete. I just take it slow and slide it in ... honestly I don't think we slide the coach back at all but I'll watch next time. Hasn't been an issue yet. Ever see a dealer moving coaches around ... no wheel chocks there (well, at least at my dealer). In fact, here is our exact technique:


  • I back up to the pin and line up the hitch and pin
  • throw it in park and momma takes over the truck
  • I go back and operate the hydraulics, setting the level as she slowly backs it up (I do this because she is short and can't judge pin height accurately)
  • hitch engages, I yell stop. If at this point I am concerned about engagement, I have her throw it in park so I can look under the pin box and see the jaws of the hitch. I do not do a pull test.
  • She throws it in park, applies parking brake, while I insert the safety pin
  • hook up the wiring and safety switch and raise the legs
  • now that I have airlifts, I will pump them up
  • now that I have a Flex Air pin box, I'll inflate that also
  • do the walk around, check the lights, lock it up and off we go - it all works.

Also, as I mentioned, when I'm on a slope I have the chocks in - that is exactly why I bought them - because I regularly park my coach on a sloping driveway. Of course I use them on any campsite that isn't close to level - see below. I would never rely on 2 legs to hold a coach on any noticeable slant.
 

IronJ

Well-known member
Im on same page as bigguy...

If its fairly level i MAY throw out a chock on one tire...usually not if its gravel or asphalt....

The snap pads and 6 legs down seem like plenty...

But also like him i aim the hitch and it rarely slams

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
lol!

We just blame it on the washer/dryer. :eek:


I thought this was a family site?? LOL

Tho not on a Heartland, I use Roto-Chocks (no longer in business). Do same thing as a "X" chock. Size of blocks used depends on gap between tires. Not sure if they will work on the BC we are considering.
 

porthole

Retired
I thought this was a family site?? LOL

Tho not on a Heartland, I use Roto-Chocks (no longer in business). Do same thing as a "X" chock. Size of blocks used depends on gap between tires. Not sure if they will work on the BC we are considering.

It is a shame the family allowed the company to close, Rotochok's were a super, very well made product and far better then "brand X".

This outfit is a clearinghouse for Rotochok's

http://www.viprv.com/rotochok/rotochok.cfm

On our first travel trailer I used a pair of X chocks (not the extended version). For a test one day I set the chocks while hooked up to the truck. Put the truck in gear and just taking my foot off the brake was enough to have both chocks pop out. They really did nothing.

I picked up a nearly new Rotochok set at Goshen 2011 (user sale table) and did the same test with the Cyclone. Trailer didn't move and the Rotochok's stayed in place. Excellent item.
 
Top