Connecting 2200 watt generator to the 30 amp trailer input

I have a 2200 watt Honda generator with two 15 amp, 120 volt extension cord outlets that I would like to connect to the 30 amp trailer input to provide 120 volts to run may TV, Dometic refrigerator, charge the battery, and 12 volt lights through the 12 volts battery. I do not want to try to run the AC unit.

Is this possible? If so, what cords and connections would I need?

Thanks.
Frank
Heartland North Trail 24BHS

farupp said:

I have a 2200 watt Honda generator with two 15 amp, 120 volt extension cord outlets that I would like to connect to the 30 amp trailer input to provide 120 volts to run may TV, Dometic refrigerator, charge the battery, and 12 volt lights through the 12 volts battery. I do not want to try to run the AC unit.

Is this possible? If so, what cords and connections would I need?

Thanks.
Frank
Heartland North Trail 24BHS

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You would need a power splitter and step down the 30 amp pigtail to a 15 amp.

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Thanks, Carl. What connects where?
Frank

This would suit your needs.
Hookups are self explanatory.

Peace
Dave

farupp said:

Thanks, Carl. What connects where?
Frank

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Frank
You need to plug you RV power cord into the 50 amp end the the other two into you generator output.
In the event that you have a 30 amp power cord on the RV try to find a 30 to 50 amp adapter. Or just buy the splitter for a 30 amp.

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Sounds like you don't have a 30 amp receptacle on the generator. The Honda EU2200i generator has a companion generator that does have a 30 amp receptacle so the 2 can be linked and all power from both routed through a 30 amp plug back to the RV. But without the companion, I'm not sure there's a way to combine the output of your two 15/20 amp outlets safely.

You could build a 'Y' with 2 15/20 amp plugs on one side and a 30 amp receptacle on the other. But if someone unplugged one of the plugs from the generator while it was running, the unplugged plug would be hot because the other plug would be powering it through the 'Y', posing risk of electrocution.

Even so, I'm not sure if the generator would manage the power demands in a predictable way. A Y would assume that when your RV is trying to use 2000 watts, that 1000 watts would be pulled from each receptacle on the generator. I don't know if that's a reasonable assumption. In other words, you might just end up tripping the breaker on one of the outlets.

An alternative would be to use a 50-->15amp adapter to connect the trailer to one outlet. Run an extension cord from the other outlet to the outlet behind the Dometic refrigerator.

danemayer said:

Sounds like you don't have a 30 amp receptacle on the generator. The Honda EU2200i generator has a companion generator that does have a 30 amp receptacle so the 2 can be linked and all power from both routed through a 30 amp plug back to the RV. But without the companion, I'm not sure there's a way to combine the output of your two 15/20 amp outlets safely.

You could build a 'Y' with 2 15/20 amp plugs on one side and a 30 amp receptacle on the other. But if someone unplugged one of the plugs from the generator while it was running, the unplugged plug would be hot because the other plug would be powering it through the 'Y', posing risk of electrocution.

Even so, I'm not sure if the generator would manage the power demands in a predictable way. A Y would assume that when your RV is trying to use 2000 watts, that 1000 watts would be pulled from each receptacle on the generator. I don't know if that's a reasonable assumption. In other words, you might just end up tripping the breaker on one of the outlets.

An alternative would be to use a 50-->15amp adapter to connect the trailer to one outlet. Run an extension cord from the other outlet to the outlet behind the Dometic refrigerator.

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Dane ,Interesting point ?
I've used this adapter before at a pedestal. I'm wonder how two separate legs could possibly power the other.

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carl.swoyer said:

Dane ,Interesting point ?
I've used this adapter before at a pedestal. I'm wonder how two separate legs could possibly power the other.

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Carl,

On the Y you pictured earlier, the open question is as to how it's wired internally. Are the 2 plugs wired to different legs of the 50 amp receptacle, or is it all wired together. If you have one, you could check it with an ohm meter.

And if as the OP says, he's using 30 amp connection to the trailer (assuming he means his trailer has 30 amp service, not 50 amp), there's a single hot leg, so it would all be wired together somewhere in the Y's and adapters and power cord.

You will also need a bonded neutral plug so that any power management device and the gfi circuits in the trailer work.
http://noshockzone.org/generator-ground-neutral-bonding/
You can make your own or buy one.

Thank you all for the input and suggestions. My trailer has a 30 amp service, not 50. I'll look at the power demands of refrigerator, the TV (24 inch) and the lights which are all LEDs. I don't know how much power the inverter that charges the battery would take as the house battery provides power to all the 12 volt items in the trailer, which are mainly the lights. The TV, AC (I am not thinking of running that with the generator), microwave and the refrigerator are 120 volt. I don't know about the furnace and its fan.

I was thinking about Dan's suggestion of having each 120v output from the generator connected to a Y which feeds to a single 30 amp input to the trailer but I wasn't sure if this would work. It seems that it would but could be problematic but would work. I do know there is a cable available for feeding one 15 amp generator output from an extension cord to a 30 amp input to the trailer. I don't know how much of the trailer that would provide power for however.

Another concern is how long the generator would run on a tank of fuel with one, and both, outputs providing power. It seems I need to do more research to determine the power loads of the trailer. Each campground we have been to has both 30 and 50 amp service as well as a single 120 volt 20 amp plug for an extension cord.

I am thinking ahead to the situation where we have to use the generator to provide electricity. I am also aware of the possibility of using a Honda 2200i Companion generator to power the trailer with 30 amps.

Frank

Somebody is over thinking this. A 2200w generator only has 2200w available. It doesn't matter if it has one outlet or 10. A 30A RV plug is nothing fancy, just different pinouts but it's still the same as a 20 or 15A regular 120v outlet, just more power available. 50A is different but this is 30A being discussed. The "Y" pigtails for pedestal use would work but from what I understand the GFCI will trip when it's used. I have one but never used it.

That generator has 20-amp rated outlets. The output at 2200 watts at 120 volts is 18 amps. Use one outlet. Put the neutral-ground bond plug into the other. Done.
https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-88...id=1553050006&s=gateway&sr=8-13&tag=hydsma-20

Some complications came from posts #2 & 5 with the 50A pigtail picture and references...hope a Mod pulls them for future newbies correct referencing to title.

As mentioned above, simply buy a 30A trailer plugin to 15A adapter and plug extension cord from it to your genny....shorter length and heavier gauge, the better. Add a bonding plug if you have any EMS equipment onboard.

We are fulltime boondockers and finally stepped up to a 3KW generator and cord, then sold our 5 year old, well used Yamaha 2KW suitcase genny. Microwave, AC startups are not a problem with the new genny on Eco mode.

avvidclif said:

Somebody is over thinking this. A 2200w generator only has 2200w available. It doesn't matter if it has one outlet or 10. A 30A RV plug is nothing fancy, just different pinouts but it's still the same as a 20 or 15A regular 120v outlet, just more power available. 50A is different but this is 30A being discussed. The "Y" pigtails for pedestal use would work but from what I understand the GFCI will trip when it's used. I have one but never used it.

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Avvidclif
You are correct that the GFI would trip.

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You could build a 'Y' with 2 15/20 amp plugs on one side and a 30 amp receptacle on the other. But if someone unplugged one of the plugs from the generator while it was running, the unplugged plug would be hot because the other plug would be powering it through the 'Y', posing risk of electrocution.

Even so, I'm not sure if the generator would manage the power demands in a predictable way. A Y would assume that when your RV is trying to use 2000 watts, that 1000 watts would be pulled from each receptacle on the generator. I don't know if that's a reasonable assumption. In other words, you might just end up tripping the breaker on one of the outlets.

An alternative would be to use a 50-->15amp adapter to connect the trailer to one outlet. Run an extension cord from the other outlet to the outlet behind the Dometic refrigerator.[/QUOTE]

Dan, any idea where I might source a Y pigtale with three 15 amp male plugs (i.e. two in, one out)? Or two 15 amp in, and a 30 amp output? Two plugs into the two receptacles on the generator and then to the "Y", and the other goes from the "Y" to the female plug on the trailer 30 amp connection. Or do I just make one myself?

Or is the GFCI going to trip if I do this as Carl says?

Thanks.
Frank

farupp said:

Dan, any idea where I might source a Y pigtale with three 15 amp male plugs (i.e. two in, one out)? Or two 15 amp in, and a 30 amp output? Two plugs into the two receptacles on the generator and then to the "Y", and the other goes from the "Y" to the female plug on the trailer 30 amp connection. Or do I just make one myself?

Or is the GFCI going to trip if I do this as Carl says?

Thanks.
Frank

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I doubt you can find one as they would probably be referred to as "suicide cords". But if you're confident no one would mess with the plugs while the generator is running, you can get the parts from Home Depot or Lowes and make your own.

But I looked at the generator manual and I think TedS has the right answer for you. Plug the RV shore power cord into an adapter to fit one generator outlet and you'll get full 2200 watts of generator power (18 amps) through the cord. The only thing I'd suggest is that rather than purchase a 15 amp adapter, I'd recommend building your own adapter using a 20 amp plug (NEMA 5-20P) to go into the generator, along with a NEMA TT-30R receptacle, and 12 gauge wire. These pictures show which pin is which. "Black Phase Connect" is the hot pin. Hot to hot. Neutral to neutral. Ground to ground. Make sure there aren't any electrical contacts exposed other than the pins on the plug.

Thanks for all the responses and guidance. I will use a single cable to connect from the generator output to the trailer input.

When it is connected I will report back on how well everything worked.

Frank

The link I put in post #12 is for a premade 20-amp male to 30-amp female dogbone.

You did. Thanks, Ted.

danemayer said:

Carl,

On the Y you pictured earlier, the open question is as to how it's wired internally. Are the 2 plugs wired to different legs of the 50 amp receptacle, or is it all wired together. If you have one, you could check it with an ohm meter.

And if as the OP says, he's using 30 amp connection to the trailer (assuming he means his trailer has 30 amp service, not 50 amp), there's a single hot leg, so it would all be wired together somewhere in the Y's and adapters and power cord.

Click to expand...

Dane
I did the test at my house.
I plugged into 120 ac and left the second pigtail disconnected. Only one side was hot and then again on the other pigtail. Same result.
I repeated the test with a 50 amp plugged in and the results are the same, only one side hot. I plan to go to the fifth wheel and repeat the test. Just have not had a chance to do so. The only thing I could think of is back feed from the RV distribution panel.?
Since most pedestals are now wired with a GFI I have not been using it.

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