2008 bighorn 5th wheel electrical issues

Brandon12

Member
I purchased my 5th wheel about 6 months ago I’m not exactly sure what is going on with it but every time I put a new light bulb in it blows out within an hour ac stopped working along with the refrigerator. I’m not exactly sure what it is I have a feeling it’s the inverter/converter but don’t want to take apart unless I’m sure that’s the issue. If anyone has any ideas please feel free to share. Thanks
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Brandon112,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed. I’m sure you will get some suggestions soon.


Jim M
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I purchased my 5th wheel about 6 months ago I’m not exactly sure what is going on with it but every time I put a new light bulb in it blows out within an hour ac stopped working along with the refrigerator. I’m not exactly sure what it is I have a feeling it’s the inverter/converter but don’t want to take apart unless I’m sure that’s the issue. If anyone has any ideas please feel free to share. Thanks

There isn’t much you can service on the converter, but you can check the output voltages. Go to the Tools Section of the forums and look for the manual under Electrical. Also check your battery. If you’re using the 1141 Incandescent automotive lights, they don’t last long (but more than an hour!). Change over to LED’s. When the converter goes into Boost mode to charge the battery all lights will brighten, but it shouldn’t blow them out or affect the appliances.


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danemayer

Well-known member
The thermostat and refrigerator both need 12V DC from either the Power Converter (120V AC to 12V DC) or from the battery to function.

Take a look at our 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic guide. The diagnostic flowchart should help you figure things out. If you don't have a voltmeter handy, another camper or the park staff may have one.
 

Brandon12

Member
There isn’t much you can service on the converter, but you can check the output voltages. Go to the Tools Section of the forums and look for the manual under Electrical. Also check your battery. If you’re using the 1141 Incandescent automotive lights, they don’t last long (but more than an hour!). Change over to LED’s. When the converter goes into Boost mode to charge the battery all lights will brighten, but it shouldn’t blow them out or affect the appliances.



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Thank you for the reply I am on shore power it’s running straight on 110. but I took battery out because it was no good I am getting a new one tomorrow. I have tried LED lights they melted within 5 mins I plugged the inverter in to a different outlet not connected to the rv and nothing changed also noticed the fan didn’t kick on
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The fan runs when the device needs cooling, not constantly. With it plugged in, check the output voltages. And having a bad battery doesn’t help.


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Brandon12

Member
Hi Brandon112,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed. I’m sure you will get some suggestions soon.


Jim M

The fan runs when the device needs cooling, not constantly. With it plugged in, check the output voltages. And having a bad battery doesn’t help.


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Ill check it tomorrow I’ll also put the new battery in. Do you have any ideas to why the ac wouldn’t work? The one in the bedroom turns on and blows but not cold and the living room/throughout doesn’t even turn on at all
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Also, the AC (air conditioner) thermostat control circuitry works off of the 12 volt DC system, so that could explain why your AC quit working. With a new battery, see if you can find the AC circuit breaker for the converter/charger, and turn it off at first with your new battery. If everything works OK on battery alone (no converter/charger) you can safely assume that the converter/charger is probably putting out too much voltage and burnt out both your old battery and light bulbs. You can get a battery charger at an auto parts store or WalMart to take care of things until you get your converter/charger repaired or replaced. Be sure to check the 12 volt fusepanel to see if any LEDS are lit indicating blown fuses.
 

Brandon12

Member
Also, the AC (air conditioner) thermostat control circuitry works off of the 12 volt DC system, so that could explain why your AC quit working. With a new battery, see if you can find the AC circuit breaker for the converter/charger, and turn it off at first with your new battery. If everything works OK on battery alone (no converter/charger) you can safely assume that the converter/charger is probably putting out too much voltage and burnt out both your old battery and light bulbs. You can get a battery charger at an auto parts store or WalMart to take care of things until you get your converter/charger repaired or replaced. Be sure to check the 12 volt fusepanel to see if any LEDS are lit indicating blown fuses.


thank you for the help. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow and let you all know how it goes!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I’d be curious to know which brand of converter you have. We have a 10 year old Progressive that is still doing its job. Our neighbor had a WFCO in a newer (non Heartland) rig that boiled his battery a couple of years ago.


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wdk450

Well-known member
The Progressive Industries 9200 Series Converter/Charger with "Charge Wizard" is still (in my opinion) the BEST RV converter/charger out there. The 4 Stage charging system, including a daily battery desulphation cycle gives optimum battery life for lead acid batteries. My original 10 year old 9260 charger would probably still be working, although I have been fulltiming for about 5 years. Unfortunately, Heartland mounted my converter directly underneath where a torrent of water ran when the plastic black tank washer atmospheric check valve located in the bathroom wall failed. I had to replace that converter at a cost of about $225 in 2012 dollars (the online price seems about the same today), but I haven't seen the need to replace any but 1 of my 4 batteries so far.

See: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/
 

LBR

Well-known member
The Progressive Industries 9200 Series Converter/Charger with "Charge Wizard" is still (in my opinion) the BEST RV converter/charger out there. The 4 Stage charging system, including a daily battery desulphation cycle gives optimum battery life for lead acid batteries. My original 10 year old 9260 charger would probably still be working, although I have been fulltiming for about 5 years. Unfortunately, Heartland mounted my converter directly underneath where a torrent of water ran when the plastic black tank washer atmospheric check valve located in the bathroom wall failed. I had to replace that converter at a cost of about $225 in 2012 dollars (the online price seems about the same today), but I haven't seen the need to replace any but 1 of my 4 batteries so far.

See: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/
I also agree on it being an excellent converter. Anyone who has this 9200 series should also spring for a manual override/status pendant that cost less than $15.

I added this pendant to my CY's 9280 when I converted over to the lithium battery bank. Without the pendant, this converter was virtually useless for proper charging of these batteries.

I endorse everyone to upgrade their 9200 series converters with this to override and monitor the status at all times.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The Progressive Industries 9200 Series Converter/Charger with "Charge Wizard" is still (in my opinion) the BEST RV converter/charger out there. The 4 Stage charging system, including a daily battery desulphation cycle gives optimum battery life for lead acid batteries. My original 10 year old 9260 charger would probably still be working, although I have been fulltiming for about 5 years. Unfortunately, Heartland mounted my converter directly underneath where a torrent of water ran when the plastic black tank washer atmospheric check valve located in the bathroom wall failed. I had to replace that converter at a cost of about $225 in 2012 dollars (the online price seems about the same today), but I haven't seen the need to replace any but 1 of my 4 batteries so far.

See: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/

Lucky me, I relocated both my surge suppressor and converter out from under that worthless plastic ASV before it dumped water all over the spot where they were. The step framing made a good spot to mount them vertically on a piece of 3/4” plywood.


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Brandon12

Member
The Progressive Industries 9200 Series Converter/Charger with "Charge Wizard" is still (in my opinion) the BEST RV converter/charger out there. The 4 Stage charging system, including a daily battery desulphation cycle gives optimum battery life for lead acid batteries. My original 10 year old 9260 charger would probably still be working, although I have been fulltiming for about 5 years. Unfortunately, Heartland mounted my converter directly underneath where a torrent of water ran when the plastic black tank washer atmospheric check valve located in the bathroom wall failed. I had to replace that converter at a cost of about $225 in 2012 dollars (the online price seems about the same today), but I haven't seen the need to replace any but 1 of my 4 batteries so far.

See: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/

I can only find 1 battery in my rv. It’s a 42 foot bighorn 5th wheel
also im pretty sure the converter not functioning right because there’s signs of dried up water on it and it’s on the floor right where you said yours was

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I’d be curious to know which brand of converter you have. We have a 10 year old Progressive that is still doing its job. Our neighbor had a WFCO in a newer (non Heartland) rig that boiled his battery a couple of years ago.


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converter is a inteli power model: PD9260c
 

CDN

B and B
I don't have a convertor under the valve but I Installed this storage box under the shower trap/ backlash valve to prevent the flood of water should either fail. Trimmed to fit at the back, will hold about 1/2 gallon of water.


IMG_4964.JPG
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I can only find 1 battery in my rv. It’s a 42 foot bighorn 5th wheel
also im pretty sure the converter not functioning right because there’s signs of dried up water on it and it’s on the floor right where you said yours was

- - - Updated - - -



converter is a inteli power model: PD9260c

Ouch! Sounds like it may have taken a shower, in which case it probably needs to be replaced. Can you locate the Anti-Siphon Valve for the black tank flusher? If the lines lead above where the converter is, you've found your water source. You'll want to mount the replacement where there is no chance of a water system leak dumping on it (or surge suppressor if you have one). The photos show where I relocated mine on the frame of the bedroom steps, fortunately before the ASV dumped where they used to be.
 

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wdk450

Well-known member
Re: " I can only find 1 battery in my rv. It’s a 42 foot bighorn 5th wheel".

I have a 2008 37 foot Bighorin 3670RL. It was shipped from the factory with 1 standard battery. My dealer added a 2nd battery in parallel with the 1st one when they delivered the rig. I later added a 1500 watt inverter system (converts battery 12 volt DC to 110 VAC power) , and wired in 2 more batteries (used, tested, AGM wheelchair batteries I found on Craigslist for a great price) to provide enough battery capacity for the inverter system. The 3 extra batteries are in the front storage compartment where the generator prep shroud was.
 

Brandon12

Member
Re: " I can only find 1 battery in my rv. It’s a 42 foot bighorn 5th wheel".

I have a 2008 37 foot Bighorin 3670RL. It was shipped from the factory with 1 standard battery. My dealer added a 2nd battery in parallel with the 1st one when they delivered the rig. I later added a 1500 watt inverter system (converts battery 12 volt DC to 110 VAC power) , and wired in 2 more batteries (used, tested, AGM wheelchair batteries I found on Craigslist for a great price) to provide enough battery capacity for the inverter system. The 3 extra batteries are in the front storage compartment where the generator prep shroud was.


Thank you for for the help. I got the battery the refrigerator is on and staying on but the a/c still won’t come on. Not sure if it has a bad connection or if the whole unit took a crap. Any ways of checking?
 
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