Can’t get my Anderson valve to turn ..!

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
I wanted to winterize my unit and the valve absolutely will not turn and I’m afraid of breaking something if I continue to try turning it. Am I missing something here ..? Shouldn’t it click from city to winterize without difficulty..?
Thanks for any advice..!
D.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Duane,

Might not help you today, but Anderson recommends Dow Molycote 111 lube on the O-Rings - not petroleum or other products. You'd have to remove the cartridge to apply the Molycote. There's a video in this folder (about 3 down) that shows how to take out the cartridge. It should only take a few minutes once you have the Molycote.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Hi Duane,

Might not help you today, but Anderson recommends Dow Molycote 111 lube on the O-Rings - not petroleum or other products. You'd have to remove the cartridge to apply the Molycote. There's a video in this folder (about 3 down) that shows how to take out the cartridge. It should only take a few minutes once you have the Molycote.

This unit ( it probably doesn’t matter) isn’t even a year old so I was hoping this valve was the brass one and not the plastic internal parts so that it might work better ..!
thanks for the fast reply ..!
 

ziggy

Retired Oregon HOC
If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Have you turned off the water and released pressure on the lines?

Yup no online water pressure

- - - Updated - - -

If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.

I was afraid someone was going to tell me this 😬
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.
Does it matter what direction I turn it ..?
 

ziggy

Retired Oregon HOC
I don't remember which way I turned ours. It was easy to turn after the first time.:eek:
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
I don't remember which way I turned ours. It was easy to turn after the first time.:eek:
Thanks for the quick reply. I think (?) I remember someone saying you should only turn it in one direction but I could be wrong .? Just not sure which direction to force it ..?
 

LBR

Well-known member
I always turn it CW with all pressures bled off on the incoming hose, if applicable, and inside the house pressures totally bled off.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
I always turn it CW with all pressures bled off on the incoming hose, if applicable, and inside the house pressures totally bled off.

Thanks for the information. I have all water pressure bled off because I knew that needed to be done first (been camping over 30 years). I think the valve body will need to be lubricated to work as designed so I’ll YouTube it and try that. Thanks again.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks for the information. I have all water pressure bled off because I knew that needed to be done first (been camping over 30 years). I think the valve body will need to be lubricated to work as designed so I’ll YouTube it and try that. Thanks again.

Anderson says that some lubricants hold dirt/crud which leads to wear of the o-rings and internal leaking.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Anderson says that some lubricants hold dirt/crud which leads to wear of the o-rings and internal leaking.

Thank you for the information on this. I (thinking out loud) wonder why Heartland continues to use this product anymore since it has so many issues ..?
thanks again..!
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
Probably because 99% of the time they are fine AND it's the only thing on the market like it. I've never had a problem.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Probably because 99% of the time they are fine AND it's the only thing on the market like it. I've never had a problem.

Im hoping that after I take it apart and replace all of the o-rings and lubricate it I’ll be back in business.!!!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thank you for the information on this. I (thinking out loud) wonder why Heartland continues to use this product anymore since it has so many issues ..?
thanks again..!

I think Anderson has been moving RV manufacturers to the all brass version. But I don't know if Heartland has changed yet.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Guess I’ll find out when I tear into it this weekend..! Gota get the o-rings first I guess.

If yours looks like this - you have the old style with plastic parts.
anderson valve closeup.jpg

Anderson has released a plug-compatible retrofit with all brass parts. Notice the top setting is for both City Fixtures (used to be CITY), and Dry Camping (used to be NORMAL).

Anderson Brass Valve front.jpg


I don't have pictures, but I think the OEM version of the all brass valve assembly is shaped a bit differently.
 
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