Leak 2006 black water

i had hose hooked to the exterior sani flush connection and went inside and forgot I had the water running. I heard a loud noise and the rv shook, some fluid had came back up through the toilet, but now there is brown water leaking from my underbelly blanket. Where do I start?

RTgilles said:

i had hose hooked to the exterior sani flush connection and went inside and forgot I had the water running. I heard a loud noise and the rv shook, some fluid had came back up through the toilet, but now there is brown water leaking from my underbelly blanket. Where do I start?

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Sorry to hear about your mishap, but stuff happens. It sounds like when the noise happened that one of your pipes into the tank came off under pressure of the full tank. Water filled your tank and began backing up your vent pipe and a small amount got pass your toilet seal. This created extra pressure with no place for the water to go. Be careful with the leaking sewage. It will quit dripping once it gets to the rupture level. Probably there already. Then pull the coroplast down to see what’s broken. I’d hope nothing is ruptured but I think that for sure the loud noise signals a pipe blew off. I’m sure someone will give you more in depth information.

Depending on which model you have, you might want to remove the basement back walls to see if the tank is visible (in mine, it is). You may be able to see where the leak is before dropping the coroplast. There are four possibilities: the joint (floor flange) between the toilet and the drain pipe, the toilet pipe into the tank, the tank vent pipe, or the valve connection to the tank.

You probably will never make that mistake again. Never leave the flush area when the water is running on the flush system. If you close the valve to provide some fill, only close for a few seconds.

I use five minuets. Why? I used a flow meter to make sure just how much water in gallons was entering the tank. Five minuets gives enough for a good flush. I do this twice. The flow meter is quite accurate. I filled two five gallon buckets four times to check it. This is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Save-a-Drop-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0058EOC5M

Also use it when filling the fresh water tank.

I also use a meter on the tank flush line. And I never walk away from the UDC is ANY water is running or valve is open.
That said, it took the wife screaming out the window that water was flowing onto the floor by the steps while I was flushing the tank. Thanks, you PoS ASV valve hidden in a wall.
So, you can be as careful as possible, but a cheap piece of garbage can ruin your day.


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A brass one would not fall apart. I have one, but have not had to change one. There is a chrome one that you can adapt to PEX that will not fall apart. $34.51 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-B-0969...s=vacuum+breaker+valve&qid=1580180340&sr=8-13

I chose to rip that piece of garbage out of the wall cavity and install a brass check valve, elevated above the tank. There is a second brass check valve I installed in the UDC after the plastic one (same manufacturer) broke off. Unless the cooties in the tank are Olympic pole vaulters and I let the tank overfill, they ain’t getting out via the tank flush line.



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mlpeloquin said:

I use five minuets. Why? I used a flow meter to make sure just how much water in gallons was entering the tank. Five minuets gives enough for a good flush. I do this twice. The flow meter is quite accurate. I filled two five gallon buckets four times to check it. This is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Save-a-Drop-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0058EOC5M

Also use it when filling the fresh water tank.

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You know that fresh water flow rates can very a lot with variations park-to-park in fresh water pressure (unless you use a fresh water pressure regulator).