I have read all the GFCI posts on the forum and I am still stumped. Was running a leaf blower plugged in to my outside outlet on our 2016 Resort 40FE destination trailer. Lost power and have not been able to figure out the issue. 2 GFCI outlets, one Iin the bath and one on counter in bedroom have no power on the line going to them as checked with a digital voltmeter. Checked voltage coming out of all breakers - none are tripped - and voltage is reading 120v. Tried new breakers and new GFCI outlets and nothing is working. Total of 5 outlets are on that circuit with two being GFCI outlets and three being standard. All was working before just fine. Have blown the breaker before when overloaded and resetting the breaker in the panel always brought power back. I now also discovered one ceiling fan with no power coming in to the switch. Stumped.....last chance here for help before calling in the electrical cavalry.
Another GFCI Issue
- Thread starter SNC
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Just to be clear, when you're saying GFCI outlets, you're talking about outlets that have a Test and Reset button in the center.
If when checking voltage at the GFCI outlet, your black lead is on the neutral, try it on the ground pin. It's possible you have voltage on the hot wire, but an open neutral.
Also, some GFCI outlets can be difficult to read if they're childproof. You might have to take the readings on the backside with the outlet pulled away from the wall.
If when checking voltage at the GFCI outlet, your black lead is on the neutral, try it on the ground pin. It's possible you have voltage on the hot wire, but an open neutral.
Also, some GFCI outlets can be difficult to read if they're childproof. You might have to take the readings on the backside with the outlet pulled away from the wall.
Readings were taken directly on the line and load terminals of the outlets pulled away from the wall.
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Yes, two outlets are the TEST/RESET GFCI and three are regular outlets on the same line with one being outside. I thought my Son had checked the Neutral but will double check in the morning with the voltmeter.
Flick
Well-known member
If what you’re saying is correct in how the 5 plug circuit is set up, someone set it up incorrectly. There is never a reason to use 2 gfci outlets on the same circuit. I repeat, if it’s set up this way, the second gfci fed from the load terminal of the first needs to be removed. But be absolutely certain that you don’t have 2 different circuits fed from another wall plug. Also, it’s not unusual for lights and ceiling fans to get their feed from wall plugs.
Since there is no voltage to the plugs on the incoming line to the gfci’s, you need to find where they are getting feed from. It could be directly from a breaker or from a regular plug in another room. Look for a broken or loose wire there.
Thanks for the info. The only reason I am thinking they are on the same circuit is that we have had a small heater plugged into the gfci in the bathroom and another on the bedroom plugged into the gfci there. If the draw got too great the circuit would blow the breaker in the panel and both would go off. Now neither actually are on, and two outlets in the wall near the floor in the bedroom are also dead, along with the outside outlet. As I said, the ceiling fan in the LR is no longer working and there appears to be no power to the switch controlling the fan either. It looks like two lines come into the bathroom GFCI with no load, the bedroom has a line and load. Load looks like it goes out to the outside outlet. Not sure about the bathroom though. I am going to check open neutral in the morning. Everything had been working until two days ago.
Thanks. I will look through the spaghetti behind the breaker panel and see if there is something going on....carefully of course. Appreciate the help everyone. Will update solution when found.
danemayer
Well-known member
You'll probably need to inspect the wiring at each outlet to see if any of the wiring has suffered heat damage. The way wires are attached in RV outlets makes them less than ideal for running high current devices like space heaters. If a poor contact at an outlet results in higher than normal resistance, the space heater power demand can cook the wire at that high resistance connection.
If you're using space heaters a lot, you might want to look into CheapHeat from RV Comfort Systems. A number of us have it and would never have another RV without it.
Or install additional outlets on dedicated circuit breakers.
If you're using space heaters a lot, you might want to look into CheapHeat from RV Comfort Systems. A number of us have it and would never have another RV without it.
Or install additional outlets on dedicated circuit breakers.
We are up only occasionally in the colder months, but do use the space heaters when here. The outlet wiring was looked at and appeared fine, but no voltage on the wires coming in to the outlet terminals. The outlets that are not GFCI reset/test outlets themselves are the cheaper no screw terminal outlets - the kind where you push the wire in to a metal fork for contact. Could be a "fry" somewhere else. I will check out CheapHeat, though. Thanks again
wdk450
Well-known member
If your layout is anything like mine, with the lighting control panel just a couple of feet above the breaker panel, the fan switch in the control panel to the breaker panel wiring might be the easiest to trace.
BTW, when you replaced the breakers, did you test for voltage there? I'm starting to wonder about parts of the distribution busses inside the breaker panel (the breakers plug into these bus bars). You may want to inspect the breaker buss bar connection forks for discoloration of the contacts. This sounds like more than 1 circuit has problems. Maybe a problem with the neutrals common bus connections. Maybe something to try is to disconnect from incoming power, and tighten ALL wire connection screws in the breaker box.
I would also be wondering about the electrical interconnection boxes under the trailer and slides. Lots of reports of loose wirenuts in those. A "hunter- Tracker" device to trace down wiring with RF test tones sent down them may be a last resort.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Multi-Purpose-Kit-Analog-Test-Meter/50278117
I hope your problem is resolved soon!!! Maybe some Caig Cramolyn DeOxIt (electrical contact miracle juice) spray on every connection (wire screws, breaker plug-in points, etc) could help.
BTW, when you replaced the breakers, did you test for voltage there? I'm starting to wonder about parts of the distribution busses inside the breaker panel (the breakers plug into these bus bars). You may want to inspect the breaker buss bar connection forks for discoloration of the contacts. This sounds like more than 1 circuit has problems. Maybe a problem with the neutrals common bus connections. Maybe something to try is to disconnect from incoming power, and tighten ALL wire connection screws in the breaker box.
I would also be wondering about the electrical interconnection boxes under the trailer and slides. Lots of reports of loose wirenuts in those. A "hunter- Tracker" device to trace down wiring with RF test tones sent down them may be a last resort.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Multi-Purpose-Kit-Analog-Test-Meter/50278117
I hope your problem is resolved soon!!! Maybe some Caig Cramolyn DeOxIt (electrical contact miracle juice) spray on every connection (wire screws, breaker plug-in points, etc) could help.
We did check voltages at the breakers and all read correctly. My underbelly is covered and would be an arduous process taking that off.
My panel is at the floor level outside the bath in the hall and near the bedroom door. 3 ft or so above it is the thermostat. The converter is behind the electrical panel on the floor, which puts it directly under the bath sink under the vanity cabinet. It is accessible from the bath or bedroom.
Anyway....all good suggestions, but many were already checked....really hope to not have to take down the covering under the camper.
As a matter of course we did check the 12v fuses and all were fine. Our ceiling fans are residential and run on AC. I can power down the bedroom fan with a 120v breaker.
Not sure what you mean. We checked voltage at the breaker, which was ok and on the physical wires at the outlet, which was no voltage. We have an electrician coming tomorrow and I think we have narrowed it down to a break somewhere probably under the camper. Maybe a critter. Stinky cuz the underbelly is covered.
Gary521
Well-known member
Another thought. I would "assume" that the power would go from the circut breaker panel to the GFCI in the bathroom. This way, the bathroom GFCI would protect all outlets after it. Disconnect all the lines on the "load" side of the GFCI. If you have power on the line side and the GFCI does not trip. The keep going until you find the culprit.
Yes, that would make sense but not the case. There is no load on the bath GFCI but two.wires going to line in, and as I said no power on the physical wire at either GFCI outlet, or at the three other outlets. Bath GFCI is within about 2 feet of the panel. Looks like that GFCI is actually the end of the line.
wdk450
Well-known member
Gary:
There are 2 types of ceiling fans in Heartland RV's - 12 VDC Fantastic Fan roof vent fans, and 110 VAC 4 blade old-time (Hunter?) fans mounted hanging from the ceiling with a light built in.
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SNC: After my converter was flooded and ruined by the B&B Molders Atmospheric Check valve on the black tank flusher tubing above my converter and cost me about $250 2010 dollars, I put a peaked sheet metal "roof" on the new converter to keep the water out of it if any flooding from above happens again. Some other members have re-mounted the converter vertically on a wall away from water sources.
No kidding. I am still confused as to why the converter and main panel are located where they are....any water leakage and fry city. Also I have two 4 blade Hunter fans and one 12v exhaust fan. It's the LR fan not getting any voltage to the wall switch near the kitchen. Anyway electrician coming tomorrow who has done some work for us in the past.
