2009 big horn 3670rl

Hello everyone i just joined the forum.
i have a 2009 big horn 3670RL
lights get bright and dim constantly and read on this forum that i may have a bad convertor

thanks for the add

Hi STEVEB23,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

You might try one experiment. In the battery compartment, turn the battery cutoff switch OFF (while plugged into shore power). If the fluctuations go away, perhaps you have a battery issue.

And while it's somewhat likely the Power Converter is the problem, before replacing it, you may want to pull the fuse box away from the wall (battery cutoff OFF and shore power/truck disconnected) and ensure all connections are tight. Also check the Power Converter's bare copper ground wire for a good connection to frame ground.

<p>
I have about the same Bighorn as you do. The Progressive Dynamics Charger/Converter is the best design on the market, in my opinion. But it IS PRICEY. A new one will probably cost you close to $200. Progressive has had lower exchange/repair prices in the past. Contact them at the phone number on this link: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/p...onverters/pd9260c-60-amp-rv-convertercharger/</p>
<p>
 </p>
<p>
You can hang a cheap battery chafrger from Walmart or an auto parts store on the batteries until you get the new converter.</p>

thank you both i will try checking the connections and battery and if that doesnt help i will give them a call thanks again

The lights will brighten and then dim back to normal periodically. That’s the converter putting the battery in Boost mode to bring it back to full charge. Most likely you have a Progressive converter (mine is) and if you get the Charge Wizard pendant for it, the light on it will tell you what mode the converter is in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 3670RL has done that since we bought it. We just figured it was part of the converter doing its checks.

wdk450 said:

<p>
I have about the same Bighorn as you do. The Progressive Dynamics Charger/Converter is the best design on the market, in my opinion. But it IS PRICEY. A new one will probably cost you close to $200. Progressive has had lower exchange/repair prices in the past. Contact them at the phone number on this link: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/p...onverters/pd9260c-60-amp-rv-convertercharger/</p>
<p>
 </p>
<p>
You can hang a cheap battery chafrger from Walmart or an auto parts store on the batteries until you get the new converter.</p>

Click to expand...

have you changed your converter before? i took off the fuse panel thinking it was behind it and it was not there.
thank you for your help

- - - Updated - - -

JohnDar said:

The lights will brighten and then dim back to normal periodically. That’s the converter putting the battery in Boost mode to bring it back to full charge. Most likely you have a Progressive converter (mine is) and if you get the Charge Wizard pendant for it, the light on it will tell you what mode the converter is in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

i understand. but once in a while everything shuts off and the alarm goes off until you turn the lights off
thank you for your imput i really appreciate everyone helping me solve this.

STEVEB23 said:

have you changed your converter before? i took off the fuse panel thinking it was behind it and it was not there.

Click to expand...

You will need to remove the black wall in your basement to find the converter.

Peace
Dave

cookie said:

You will need to remove the black wall in your basement to find the converter.

Peace
Dave

Click to expand...

the carpet wall? which direction rear of trailer or front of trailer?

thank you dave

Yes the carpeted wall toward the rear.
It will probably be two pieces. There are screws that may be hidden in the cloth and there may be a couple screws in the UDC (universal docking center), that is where your tank valves are.

Peace
Dave

In my 3670RL, the converter was originally mounted behind the front kitchen wall on the main floor extension, next to the steps. That puts it directly under the anti-siphon valve for the toilet which is known to fail (like mine did). Fortunately, I had relocated both the converter and surge suppressor to a safer location prior to the flood.

In this older photo, you may be able to see where it was. Look along the stair frame on the left and you can see part of the gray housing for it. The black box is my surge suppressor I bought and had the dealer install. Unfortunately, they installed it directly behind the breaker panel under the kitchen cabinet. So I moved it to where it is in the photo. The second photo shows how I relocated both to keep them out of any flooding (read about it from other owners).

To remove the panels, there are screws along the outside frame edge and some in the center where the two panels angle. You may also have to remove the pipe chase cover that runs across the cargo door opening to get the panel out. If you want to remove the other panel, you will have to remove some screws inside the UDC. Be prepared to enter what I dub "The Basement of Doom."

I actually cut access panels into both basement wall sections for easier access to the converter fuses and the suppressor and to periodically check for any plumbing leaks.

If you access or replace the converter/charger this will be your opportunity to move it or somehow otherwise protect it from a possible future water deluge ( and buying a new converter) from the black tank flusher atmospheric breaker valve that sits in the wall behind the toilet and rains water down onto the converter below when this plastic valve fails from high water pressure. Literature for the valve also states that it can vent water "under normal circumstances". I had this happen to me while on an extensive trip from the West Coast to Yellowstone/Gillette/Mt. Rushmore. I was able to repair/replace stuff on the road, but I installed a sheet metal "pagoda style roof" on the converter. Other people have moved it to a vertical wall nearby.