2011 Cyclone Fifth Wheel - No Power to front ac, kitchen outlets, and bathroom

[Ksather222]

Good evening - I hope someone can answer this problem. I have replaced all the fuses, the converter, the kitchen GFI, and the battery. Came back from home to find the power was out in the trailer for the AC, water heater, and kitchen/bathroom outlets. The lights are on after replacing the battery (new), but still no power to the rest. I have searched the entire trailer for another GFI, and only one is in the kitchen. The wizard on the converter is blinking, showing normal. The fridge is not working after the battery is replaced. My concern is the battery going out again, but I'm unsure why the rest is not coming on. The front breakers by the battery are loose and did not push as hard to reset. What am I missing? It is a 2011 Cyclone 3950. It took me forever to find the converter. I do not have the owner's books to search for other issues.

 

[cookie]

Your issue could be related to a bad connection somewhere.
I would cycle all of the breakers off then on again. All includes the main.
If that doesn't help then disconnect from shore power and if you have a generator be certain that is off. Unscrew and remove the breaker panel, check all wires going to the breakers and all neutral (white) wires going to the neutral buss bar.
Do you know if you have transfer switch? You do if you have a generator. Open that and check the wire connections there.
That should keep you busy for a while. Come back and let us know what you find.

Peace
Dave

 

[wdk450]

How is your electrical knowledge from school physics? Do you have and know how to use an electrical multimeter?
Here is a pretty good electrical SYSTEMS manual from our forum library:

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/User%20Guides/Electrical%20V2.pdf

Are you using a 30 amp or 50 amp RV power connection. A lot of AC stuff not working all the sudden can be indicative of the loss of 1 of the 2 50 amp power phases feeding the 2 sets of of breakers on the breaker box not working. Under this scenario, as you move from left to right on the branch breakers row, EVERY OTHER labelled branch device would be inoperative. With 30 amp wiring and power supplied to the trailer all power is from 1 common supply, and this scenario of partial loss of power is not probable that way.

You may have to have a mobile RV repair person come to your trailer, and ask him/her to show YOU how to do the diagnostic tests he is doing to find the root cause of the problems.

BTW, (if you don't mind) where in the country are you now? Maybe if one of us helpful experienced owners is near you, he/she could come to your location to help/educate you in RV electricals.

Best of luck!!!

 

[david-steph2018]

Ksather222, if you have an installed generator, here is a simple test to help maybe isolate the issue. Turn off the shore power, start the generator and see if everything that is not working on shore power is now working.
If everything is good on the generator power, I would look at the power cord and if installed the cord reel. Another area of concern, if not in this area would be the transfer switch.

 

[Ksather222]

Thank you all for the advice. I am not exactly mechanical, the generator has never worked, and we never use it. It cost more to repair/replace than it was worth. The only breaker I know of is inside by the door. turned all of them off and back on, and still nothing. I thought it was a bad GFI so just replaced it again and nothing. I did find a fuse on the opposite side of the generator and replaced it (nope). What is a neutral bus bar? Is that the breakers by the battery? I was thinking maybe I need to replace all of those and try, but everything else works. Good old Texas heat is not over, but at least the bedroom ac is working.

 

[cookie]

The bank of fuses by the battery are 12 volt fuses and have nothing to do with your problem.
If you remove the cover from the 120 breaker panel and remove the breaker panel to access the backside of the breakers you will find a bar with a lot of white wires attached. That's the neutral buss.
You also need to access the transfer switch to check those connections.
These are things you need to do to help find the problem.
If you don't feel comfortable doing those things then I suggest that you call a mobil repair person. RV park managers can usually help you find one.

Peace
Dave

 

[Ksather222]

I just pulled all the wires off one at a time and put them back on; they all seemed to be connected securely, and there were no burnt wires. They were easy to get at under the sink. The only thing I did not do was take off all the wires screwed into the buss. Do I disconnect the shore power again and turn all the breakers off and on? I have done this several times already. I do have an rv repair man that can come out, but he is an hour away. Might have to breakdown and call. It bugs me that I cannot fix it myself I bet it is something simple I am missing.

 

[wdk450]

RVServiceReviews.com has listings of RV technicians nationwide, including mobile technicians.

 

[cookie]

Any time you access the 120 volt AC breaker panel I suggest you disconnect from shore power.
You do not need to disconnect any wires just be sure they are all screwed in tight.
Do you have a multimeter?

Peace
Dave

 

[david-steph2018]

Does the rig have a cord reel, or do you plug in both ends of the cable?
As Dave asked about the multimeter, it is an important tool to have to help trace out problems.