Rear JT Stabilizers on 2011 BC 3250 Problem

All-
I read a few threads concerning the rear JT stabilizer installation on the BC 3250 (2011 model). Is there a definite answer on how the rear stabilizers should be mounted? Some mount to the frame toward the front of the coach, others mounted angle iron across the rear of the coach frame rails, etc.
It almost looks like one could simply drill holes up through the fiberglass rear cap lip, through the insulation and into whatever goes across. Any sage advice?? All the rest of the installation is done except for this last pesky problem.
Thanks!!
Pappy
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
They need to be attached to the frame of the trailer. Do not drill through the fiberglass cap and try to attach them! Could result in some serious damage to the cap. May not happen right away but it will happen in time. Mine are attached to the frame rails ahead of the rear stabilizers. They seem to help, but not all that much. I have started using some 6X6 blocks under the rear stabilizer pads so the legs aren't extended as far. this seems to work just fine....Don
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
The strong arms connect to the frame going toward the front of the trailer and the rear stabilizers. Do not connect to fibreglass cap. There should be some photos on the forum showing the correct connections. I have removed mine because I have the Bigfoot auto leveling system. If you wish I will post some photos when I get back to my trailer.

BC

Strongarm thread with photo...
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Bob & Don are right JT's instructions say to go to the center in the rear, but there is nothing solid there. I mounted mine to front just like the fronts are mounted to the rear of the landing jacks, they work well that way.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Mounted my similar Ultra-Fab Stabilizers on the frame forward of the rear jacks, too. There is nothing under the rear cap substantial enough to take any loading. Although I've installed four Reico-Titan jacks, I still use the rear stabilizers. They're there, why not?
 
All-
Thanks for your input on the JT Strongarm rear stabilizers. I called JT (now a division of Lippert. Very convenient!) They advised me to run a length of angle iron across the rear frame rails and attach the stabilizers to it.
Someone else on the forum suggested that fix as well and they were right. It was easy and seems to work very well. The angle iron I used was 2"X2"X1/8". It was about $23 at Home Depot. To make it easy as possible, measure the frame rail width first then drill the frame holes you will use in the angle iron. Then vise grip the angle to the frame whilst you drill the frame rails using the angle iron as your template. The only down side to the installation is that the JT Stabilizers still bump into the telescoping jack frame when in the fully retracted position. Its minor, but you need to mount the stabilizers as low on the angle iron as possible.
Anyhow....thanks to all. If any of you want to contact me about tis installation, email me at mjdeck03@Gmail.com
Mike (aka Pappy)
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Thats the way the instructions say to install them but when mounted forward and to the frame they stabilize the unit a lot better than to the rear cross member.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
If you think of the way the rv shakes it will shake from front to back versus side to side. So in my mind front to back is the way to mount them. The stabilizers should take care of the side to side.
 
I believe the geometry and forces on the front landing gear are much different than in the rear stabilizers of the coach. Given the vertical height in the front and the higher center of gravity allows for significant vertical and horizontal movement when walking around inside or with a stiff wind buffeting the coach. Having both planes of movement mitigated in front is required. The JTs work well there.

The coach rear is much different. The telescoping stabilizers are much lower to the ground than the front landing gear and are not positioned consistently (depending on terrain) on the outside of the coach as are the front landing gear. Also, the rear stabilizer pivot point is inside the coach further than the pad on the ground. Thus, if the coach is going to move significantly in the rear, it will likely be most noticeable from side to side, not front to back. Stiffining (stabilizing) the rear of the coach side-to-side back there makes sense to me. Mounting the back stabilizers front-to-back will do minimal movement dampening since it is redundant to the front landing gear stabilizers. Stopping the side-to-side movement of the frame in the rear appears to me to be the most efficient method. Therefore, the angle iron transversing the rear frame rails and snubbing that movement seems to be to be most profitable/

Of course, if someone out there with the expertise wants to do a force vector analysis, that would settle the discussion and set the standard for mounting. Besides, I retired, its winter and here I sit. Might as well think about it. BTW, all this is only my opinion.

Mike (Pappy)
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
I believe the geometry and forces on the front landing gear are much different than in the rear stabilizers of the coach. Given the vertical height in the front and the higher center of gravity allows for significant vertical and horizontal movement when walking around inside or with a stiff wind buffeting the coach. Having both planes of movement mitigated in front is required. The JTs work well there.

The coach rear is much different. The telescoping stabilizers are much lower to the ground than the front landing gear and are not positioned consistently (depending on terrain) on the outside of the coach as are the front landing gear. Also, the rear stabilizer pivot point is inside the coach further than the pad on the ground. Thus, if the coach is going to move significantly in the rear, it will likely be most noticeable from side to side, not front to back. Stiffining (stabilizing) the rear of the coach side-to-side back there makes sense to me. Mounting the back stabilizers front-to-back will do minimal movement dampening since it is redundant to the front landing gear stabilizers. Stopping the side-to-side movement of the frame in the rear appears to me to be the most efficient method. Therefore, the angle iron transversing the rear frame rails and snubbing that movement seems to be to be most profitable/

Of course, if someone out there with the expertise wants to do a force vector analysis, that would settle the discussion and set the standard for mounting. Besides, I retired, its winter and here I sit. Might as well think about it. BTW, all this is only my opinion.

Mike (Pappy)

Whew..that is deep.. my head is spinning :)
 
Sorry to be so verbose and technical.......
In another life I was an instructor at a nuclear power plant. Occasionally I still regress mentally to that life. Beer helps...
Pappy
 

fast900

Member
I would welcome any input on this. I have the jt's front and back. The back are mounted to the frame because I felt the stabilizers would handle the left to right motion. My daughter is 5 and when she goes in to the loft, the rest of the camper feels like a boat on the ocean. The front has stabilizers in both directions. Maybe I attached to a bad spot? I even made longer poles and attached from left side frame to right side leg.
 
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