Better late than never. I would have posted this sooner (as promised), but I had to respond to a possible structure fire. Ended up being smoldering ash in the fireplace clean out...which did not have any access from below in the basement.
Anyways, I took some photos of the breaker panel and put labels on the breakers (hard to photo the actual ones). I've also included the 12V fuse layout, so you can get an idea of what it might look like. For what you want to do, based on my breaker set-up, you'll need to disconnect the GFCI, and BEDROOM circuits from the 120V panel and run them over to your 240V panel. According to my owner's manual, the GFCI breaker controls the bathroom (where the GFCI outlet is) along with the kitchen and exterior outlets. They way it's jerry-rigged, the basement outlet for the central vacuum (or TV) might be on that, too. I'm not sure, but the one marked SLIDE-OUT might be for all slide outlets (other than the bedroom). None of the breakers are dedicated to the refridgerator, so you're going to have to do some circuit tracing to figure it out.
For the breakers, from left to right, the MAIN is a double 50A. The ten circuits labelled are: 20, 15, 20, 15, 20, 15, 20, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15 Amp breakers, in that order.
In my fuse panel, there are more fuses than labels, so I don't know what the last two are for, or if they're even connected to anything. One might be for the electric awning, but I don't know what the other might be for. Maybe the Fantastic Fan?
Although HL won't/can't give you a wiring schematic, perhaps if you contact them they can give you some idea of how they wired it. I still think it's bogus that they don't have a wiring diagram for these rigs.
I'm sure you know this, but our 240V connections are different. The four prongs (just like on the trailer plug) are two 120V hots, a neutral and a ground. The trailer is not using a true 240V input, since the two hot lines are separated to be individual 120V supply lines to the neutral. With your three-wire system, you've got 240V between the single hot and neutral lines.
I hope this helps, but it's not as informative as I thought it was.
View attachment 11172View attachment 11174View attachment 11173
Very many thanks John, the breaker pics are great, at least I can make a start on my own wiring diagram and the relevant ampage for breakers I will need for the 240v panel. As you said I will still need trace a couple of circuits, but I enjoy a bit of problem solving!! lol
I will try HL again for a circuit diagram, but don't hold up much hope, to be honest as there's so much going on 'behind the panels' I wonder if there is an official one??
The 240v 'shoreline' shouldn't be a problem, as I will wire that directly into the 240v panel through a 30/50amp MCB, hopefully I should be able to use the US 'shoreline' plug and cable and rewire it accordingly and just feed direct to the transformer, and subsequently the 110v panel from the transformer.
As the 110v sockets are probably on a couple of ring mains, I may have to do a little rewiring so I leave a complete 110 ring main for fitted 110v equipment, and maybe run a new separate 240v ring main, but that shouldn't be to much bother.
What ever happens I will record all the work, and keep a blog going, to let you all know how the sparks between tooth fillings is going
Best regards, and thank again
Kev