2011 3300CK rear jacks electric motor
- Thread starter bradal
- Start date
jimtoo
Moderator
Hi bradal,
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.
I'm sure some of our other members will be in shortly to help with a part number for you,,, you might check out Tweety's or some of the other rv supply houses also for a replacement motor.
Also be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.
Enjoy the forum and your new to you unit.
Jim M
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.
I'm sure some of our other members will be in shortly to help with a part number for you,,, you might check out Tweety's or some of the other rv supply houses also for a replacement motor.
Also be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.
Enjoy the forum and your new to you unit.
Jim M
Kbvols
Well-known member
The motors are made by lippert and are on their web site. They are expensive though which is why it was probably removed. You may check eBay also as I have seen some there. The issue with them or at least mine was they are not sealed well allowing water to enter and then the springs for the brushes rust. I was able to rebuild mine and put in new springs and sealed up with automotive
Silicone sealer...so far it has worked.
$366.93
After a long trip, cranking manual scissor jacks can be a long and strenuous process. LCI's Power Stabilizer Jacks easily retract and extend with the flip of a switch. In just a few minutes, the coach will be stable, so you can spend less time setting up camp and more time enjoying your vacation. LCI Power Stabilizer Jacks are an affordable way to upgrade to power stabilization and easily bolt-on to the existing frame.
SKU: 352338
http://store.lci1.com/rear-electric-stabilizer-smart-jack-motor#
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Silicone sealer...so far it has worked.
$366.93
After a long trip, cranking manual scissor jacks can be a long and strenuous process. LCI's Power Stabilizer Jacks easily retract and extend with the flip of a switch. In just a few minutes, the coach will be stable, so you can spend less time setting up camp and more time enjoying your vacation. LCI Power Stabilizer Jacks are an affordable way to upgrade to power stabilization and easily bolt-on to the existing frame.
SKU: 352338
http://store.lci1.com/rear-electric-stabilizer-smart-jack-motor#
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
I rebuilt mine several years ago. To seal the joint between the cover and gear box, I wrapped it a few times with clear Rescue Tape, making sure to wrap tightly where the wires enter the case. Been fine ever since.
Silverado23
Iowa Chapter Leaders
Although not the same jack, After replacing the wiring on my front jack. I used liquid electrical tape to seal all the exposed wiring, circuit breaker and grommet entering the jack motor.
Last edited:
Hey all,, just had my rear jack motor quit on me, no noise other than a pop and nadda, we have a 2014 Gateway 3500RE, the front motor has an inline fuse to it, found it after cranking the jacks for half an hr to raise the front up enough to hook up, anyway looking for a fuse on the rear and it looks like it may be hardwired. We towed across the Blue mountains over christmas and the roads were covered with salt, i tried washing everything off but didn't get it all, i guess its a glycol salt mix but it sticks to everything. Anyway back to my problem, i can rebuild the motor if need be once we get to where we are going but just wanted to find out if someone might know if there is a fuse somewhere i am not seeing, maybe under the thermoplast where the wires go into the belly??? Nothing in hug i could find.
Thanks for any help
Marcus
Thanks for any help
Marcus
jimtoo
Moderator
Check for power to the motor when switch is pushed, if none then check for small breaker near battery, usually a row of 5-6. Some have a very small button that resets it. If you have power to motor it has been reported that you can remove motor and you might find one or both of the brush springs rusted and broken. Have heard they replace the springs with part of a ball point pen spring. If you search for it you can probably find the post.
Let us know what you find as it may help someone else.
Jim M
Let us know what you find as it may help someone else.
Jim M
Jim, i tried seeing if i had power last night but it got dark on me, checked this morning and have power into the switch and out on both lines, retract and extend when i use the switch so its the motor, i'll tear it down and take some pictures of the brushs and springs and post them as i try and rebuilt it, if the brush springs are small like a pen i have plenty of those laying around so should be an easy repair, i'll clean.commutator as well and show how to do that in pics, i have rebuilt plenty of generators and starter motors so its a simple process as long as windings are good.
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
will see if the pictures post, been a while since i have tried downloading any, it was the brush springs, rusted everything inside the motor itself, the gear reduction section was fine, it is sealed with a rubber gasket, the motor housing itself has a paper gasket only so i can see how water could get inside easily enough. Thanks for the tip, i replaced the brush springs using cut down ball point pen springs and they are working fine with slightly more pressure on the brushs as well.
jimtoo
Moderator
Let's see,,, now.. more pressure on the brushes means it transfers more juice to copper flat wire things.. so that would give it more power and turqke ,,, right? I think i'm going in the right direction... oh direction .. was the springs out of pins with blue ink or red ink... or black ink. that makes a difference also. Cause if I'm thinking right red turns right and black and blue turn left.. also...seal it reel good...cause you don't want that 90 weite grese leaking out.. .. gets messsy. 
ya'll have fuun now.. got to get me nother cool one.
Yall be good now nnight night..
yer helpper..
ya'll have fuun now.. got to get me nother cool one. Yall be good now nnight night..
yer helpper..
Jim, thanks for the tip, if u need some ink i have a couple cartridges of black pen ink with the ball point tips still on em! I may have messed up using black pen springs on both brushs if its only going to turn right now......i used diaelectric grease on the brush/pen springs and a little clear silicone on the housing gasket, the motor housing has a big sleeve made out of black plastic on the outside of it that has to come off to get the housing apart, i did put a little white lith grease on the outside of the motor before i slid the plastic back on it, also soldered and shrink wrapped the wires back together to the switch instead of using crimp connectors. The copper flat things are called commutator bars, cleaned them with fine steel wool and wiped down with alcohol, all i had on hand, since the brush spring was junk i didn't check the windings, but it is easy to do if you have a multimeter. Again thanks for the tip, works fine.
Welcome to the forum, Bradal. Lots of good people with tons of knowledge.
Glad you found your replacement. I burnt my stabilizer motor out last summer. After replacing it, I now level the front, run the rears down with the switch until they hit my blocks and then hand-crank with the provided long wrench to tighten up the rear and make it solid. When I break camp, I hand-crank down or drop the front to take pressure off the rear and then use the switch & motor to raise the stabilizers. This way there isn't a lot of torque put on that little motor.
Happy travels,
Rod
Glad you found your replacement. I burnt my stabilizer motor out last summer. After replacing it, I now level the front, run the rears down with the switch until they hit my blocks and then hand-crank with the provided long wrench to tighten up the rear and make it solid. When I break camp, I hand-crank down or drop the front to take pressure off the rear and then use the switch & motor to raise the stabilizers. This way there isn't a lot of torque put on that little motor.
Happy travels,
Rod
