Batteries: Type vs. Useful Life

[RoadJunkie]

Clearly battery maintenance is critical for prolonged life and performance, but does the type (series), deep cycle status or manufacture really make a difference in terms of effective life? Or, are we held to a practical reality of replacing our batteries every five years, or so, regardless? I'm getting ready to make my five-year investment.

 

[BigJim45]

Clearly battery maintenance is critical for prolonged life and performance, but does the type (series), deep cycle status or manufacture really make a difference in terms of effective life? Or, are we held to a practical reality of replacing our batteries every five years, or so, regardless? I'm getting ready to make my five-year investment.

Len
Wish I could answer your question, but I can not. So I'm going to let someone that knows more about batteries answer.

See ya in Jan 2016 at Quartzite.

 

[RoadJunkie]

Thanks, Jim. Just hoping/wishing someone would have a silver bullet they could share.

 

[Bohemian]

Lithium Ion batteries will last a very long time. You pay a premium. You need to recalibrate(program) you charger. Additionally a 100AH Li Ion will be able to deliver 80-100AH without damage, while it will take a 200AH lead acid to get the same 80-100AH useful capacity.

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/lithium-rv-deep-cycle.php

http://www.technomadia.com/lithium/

 

[RoadJunkie]

I have never thought of Li batteries for the RV. They really are quite expensive, however. I wonder if the coach converter can be re programmed to charge them? Something to consider. Thanks.

 

[sjandbj]

I have never thought of Li batteries for the RV. They really are quite expensive, however. I wonder if the coach converter can be re programmed to charge them? Something to consider. Thanks.

Most of the convertors installed on the rigs today cannot be re-programed to handle the Li batteries. If the converter is missed programed they will shorten the life of the battery and then you do not see the cost saving. There are several blog on the net where the Li batteries are talked about. It is great reading if you like that kind of stuff like I do.

Regards,
Steve

 

[Lance & Jo]

To really answer your question you need to think about how you are using the batteries and how many batteries you have in the rig. If you are mostly always in an RV park and only have the 1 battery then not a real concern. If you spend time off the grid, have more batteries then it's a different story. We lived aboard a sailboat for 15 years, 10 of them out of the country and I spent a lot of time looking this over when first setting up the electrical system. We had 360 watts of solar, a 6Kw gen and shore power with 2 bulk chargers so the batteries never really reached a deep discharge. After looking at all the cost trade offs I installed 6 lead acid golf cart batteries and replaced them twice during the 15 years. I did find out that there really aren't that many folks making batteries but there are a lot putting their names on them. One good test I have found is to look at the weight, generally the heavier the battery the more lead in the plates. Hope this helps a little

 

[RoadJunkie]

My battery usage is very limited, typically used during setups and takedowns. Dry camping is only about 5%. I'm probably over thinking this issue and,with the limited battery usage, reluctant to reconfigure my stock charging systems. I guess I'll just replace my existing batteries. Thanks for the input from all.

 

[boatto5er]

I'm a little surprised by the lack of input on this thread. I was hoping to see a little more input. I recently installed a residential fridge and coincidentally am due a battery replacement, so I'm looking for the most practical, cost-effective solution. I currently have one off brand (had to get what was available in a small town on a Sunday afternoon 4 years ago) Group 27 Deep Cycle. It has served us well, but with an inverter installed to run the fridge while traveling, I'm looking for something reliable, but as I said cost-effective. I am waivering between five solutions: Two 6 Volt Interstate Golf Cart batteries (2 1/2 to 3 times the cost of a single 12V), a single group 27 Deep Cycle (basically a one for one replacement of what I have now), two Group 27 Deep Cycles, a single Group 29 Deep Cycle, or a single Group 31 Deep Cycle. I'm leaning toward the 2 6V Golf Cart batteries, but I'm not sure if I really need them from a cost-effective perspective, because we don't boondock and will only need the 12V while traveling down the road (supplemented by the truck charging of course). I also am not sure we will need the bigger 12V than what we currently have. It seems the bigger 12V will hold the higher voltage needed for the inverter, if we lost shore power in a campground, and that is a consideration. What do you think? Am I over thinking this?

 

[danemayer]

There are other threads in this sub-forum where battery choices/pros/cons are discussed in some depth.

Here's one.

 

[boatto5er]

Thanks for the link Dan, but unfortunately that thread and most of the other threads (and I admit I haven't looked at all of them) I've looked at deal primarily with supporting boon-docking, and that's not what I'm looking for input on. I'm looking more from the perspective of supporting the residential fridge while traveling down the road for 6-8 hours a day. Really just wondering if a good Group 27 Deep Cycle (like an Interstate) will stay sufficiently charged. The longest trip we've taken since we put in the fridge was 3 1/2 hours, and we had no problems with that, but I've seen some comments that some folk's inverters/fridges pulled power faster than the truck could charge the battery and the inverter would shut down at around 10.5 volts. Just trying to get the most bang for my buck to keep that from happening.

 

[danemayer]

Gus,

Heartland ships the residential refrigerator coaches with 2 Group 27 deep cycle batteries wired in parallel. Based on what people have posted, there's no problem towing for 8-10 hours. And some people have reported having enough battery left for overnight parking without shore power. But I wouldn't count on overnight if you're also running the furnace on batteries during the winter.

 

[bdb2047]

Gus,I was using 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries at first for fridge only.Would do a days travel easily. Batteries would be at about 95 percent tuck would not keep fully charged . Left sit at house on battery only,to see how long it would last, after about 22hrs batteries down to 50%.

Thanks for the link Dan, but unfortunately that thread and most of the other threads (and I admit I haven't looked at all of them) I've looked at deal primarily with supporting boon-docking, and that's not what I'm looking for input on. I'm looking more from the perspective of supporting the residential fridge while traveling down the road for 6-8 hours a day. Really just wondering if a good Group 27 Deep Cycle (like an Interstate) will stay sufficiently charged. The longest trip we've taken since we put in the fridge was 3 1/2 hours, and we had no problems with that, but I've seen some comments that some folk's inverters/fridges pulled power faster than the truck could charge the battery and the inverter would shut down at around 10.5 volts. Just trying to get the most bang for my buck to keep that from happening.

 

[Bones]

I traveled down to SC earlier this year with the batteries that came with my coach. I had no issues keeping the batteries charged during our trip with the reefer running for a little over 12 hours. When I arrived at the park and I looked at the meeter inside it was reading 75% available. I have the 1000 watt inverter and the fridge pulls 6 amps roughly. The only thing I made sure to do was to keep the camper plugged into the outlet until I was actually hooked up and ready to roll. I even keep it hooked up when I bring all my slides in and pull my landing gear up,so that I can ensure the fullest charge possible on my batteries before my trip. I hope this helps you.