Hot Tank Diverter Valve Cracked - How do I bypass it

[gslabbert5119]

My [FONT=&quot]Hot Tank Diverter Valve is cracked and is the source of my water leak. It is getting worse and I had over 2 gallons of water in my storage bay.

There are no RV stores anywhere near where I am so I was wondering how do modify the piping to completely bypass the system.

This is a photo of the unit that is broken.[/FONT]

 

[rjr6150]

Amazon is your friend.

 

[danemayer]

Gavin,

You'll have to trace the water lines that connect to it. One goes into the bottom of the water heater. Another one tees into the line coming out of the top of the water heater. The third tees into the line from your water inlet or 4-way Anderson Valve.

To bypass the valve temporarily, you want to connect the line from the water inlet to the line going to the bottom of the water heater. You'll have to cap the line that goes to the top of the water heater.

 

[gslabbert5119]

Gavin,

You'll have to trace the water lines that connect to it. One goes into the bottom of the water heater. Another one tees into the line coming out of the top of the water heater. The third tees into the line from your water inlet or 4-way Anderson Valve.

To bypass the valve temporarily, you want to connect the line from the water inlet to the line going to the bottom of the water heater. You'll have to cap the line that goes to the top of the water heater.

Thanks Danemayer

 

[JohnDar]

You might consider installing a simpler bypass kit, rather than putting another B & B Molders plastic part in there. The two part failures I've had, the tank flush inlet and the ASV, were both made by them.

When we had a TT, without a bypass on it, I installed something similar to this. Granted, you'd have to access the back of the water heater to operate it, but it is an alternative.

https://www.etrailer.com/search/Water+Heater+Bypass+Kit

 

[sengli]

Mine had the same thing happen, when we still had our big horn. Took me forever to find it, cause the crack was small. I ended up ordering an exact replacement thru, parts at heartland, so I didnt have to re-do all the plumbing connections behind the UDC.

 

[gslabbert5119]

Mine had the same thing happen, when we still had our big horn. Took me forever to find it, cause the crack was small. I ended up ordering an exact replacement thru, parts at heartland, so I didnt have to re-do all the plumbing connections behind the UDC.

Yeah agreed sengli, it has taken me forever to find the leak. Could not figure out why the cargo hold was full of water. Now I have to replace the plyboard in the cargo area as it is soft, and will only do that once I find all of the leak.

I bypassed the system incorrectly (by mistake) and found that I had to use the pump to get water. Fortunately this error showed me that I have a leak on my pump as well, albeit a very slow one.
Now, do I service the pump, or replace it with a new, better, more quiet one.

 

[sengli]

My rig was new when I found the crack in the by pass housing...I think it was over tightened , when assembled at the factory causing the crack in the housing, but thats another story.

I also found my pump would leak a little intermittently, as we used it a lot. We rarely camped with full hook ups. The screw on fittings needed to tightened occasionally, until the "seal" in those fittings just needed replaced. I went thru two pumps in like four years. I found that the RV antifreeze, will freeze solid when cold enough. I took a mason jar with straight RV antifreeze, and left it out in like 20 degree ambient weather, and it froze solid. So now I winterize with anti freeze, and then blow out the lines (including the pump) with 10psi of air afterwards.

 

[gslabbert5119]

Thanks,
I tightened the screws about a week ago, so I think that the seal on the water pump is either done or on its way out.

It looks like the connections were overtightened as the crack is in the plastic where the connector screws in. Also there was no thread tape on any of the fittings going into the unit.