Looking for design ideas on tapered front jack leveling blocks
- Thread starter jbeletti
- Start date
I never worry about things I'm ignorant of
But, not that you've pointed it out - something to think about.
Wonder if we do the same thing at campgrounds at times? I was camped a few weeks back where the front jacks were "completely" collapsed and the rears were at full extension. Been in situations where it's nearly the opposite too.
By super-loading one axle for a weekend or so, do you feel we are doing damage to the axle, springs, tires?
DonnyB007
Well-known member
Once you have the trailer level side to side, next comes front to back. My home driveway is slanted to the side and front to back. I use that yellow triple level block under the trailer's driver's side tire. Then I use heavy duty blocks on all tires of the trailer. The trailer is then disconnected from the truck and I level my trailer front to back. I place a two foot level on the top of the A-Frame and use my power jack to lift the whole trailer up. It has to go up in the air so much, that I place a 6X6X18 inch block under the bottom lift plate before I start! Then I get the trailer level front to back based on the bubble reading of the level.
Finally, I take a bunch of 4X4x18 inch wood blocks and start stacking them up. Place down two blocks parallel to each other, and about 10 inches apart; then two more 90 degrees on top of those bottom blocks working your way up. The goal is to be able to bring down the scissor jacks with about 50% left for more stabilizing scissor action. I use the 18volt battery drill to bring the scissor jacks up and down. I have used this method countless times on just about every conceivable parking spot I have been at and it has worked fast and accurate each time. I did purchase a similar set of blocks like you have pictured above with the yellow rope handles. I have never used them yet for stabilizing the scissor jack locations.
Anyway, that's my story and I am sticking to it. Happy camping!
Finally, I take a bunch of 4X4x18 inch wood blocks and start stacking them up. Place down two blocks parallel to each other, and about 10 inches apart; then two more 90 degrees on top of those bottom blocks working your way up. The goal is to be able to bring down the scissor jacks with about 50% left for more stabilizing scissor action. I use the 18volt battery drill to bring the scissor jacks up and down. I have used this method countless times on just about every conceivable parking spot I have been at and it has worked fast and accurate each time. I did purchase a similar set of blocks like you have pictured above with the yellow rope handles. I have never used them yet for stabilizing the scissor jack locations.
Anyway, that's my story and I am sticking to it
. Happy camping!
Bob and Chris
Senior Members
Jim,
I have a similar drive issue, don't know the slope. I use pressure treated 6x6's (5 1/2"x5 1/2") 11 1/2" long on end. Have considered moving up to 8" x 8" with a 1/2" recess in the top to capture the legs. I can just about walk under the kingpin when level, I'm 6'-0". We've added the six point Lippert since purchasing our 2010 and use the electric rear stabilizers for 8 points of contact.
I have a similar drive issue, don't know the slope. I use pressure treated 6x6's (5 1/2"x5 1/2") 11 1/2" long on end. Have considered moving up to 8" x 8" with a 1/2" recess in the top to capture the legs. I can just about walk under the kingpin when level, I'm 6'-0". We've added the six point Lippert since purchasing our 2010 and use the electric rear stabilizers for 8 points of contact.
we have a 45' Cyclone Toyhauler and bought a coupe pairs of these. kinda price when compared to the other options, but well worth it (in my humble opinion) and we love them.
