Looking for repair and maintenance info on Ford vs. Chevy...

porthole

Retired
Hey Bobcat - here is the picture we talked about.
This block is about 2", the single rear wheel trucks have an almost 4" block.

This picture is the 2017 truck, so the 16's your looking at may be a bit different.
 

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TXBobcat

Fulltime
Thanks Duane... Also Hi Dan...
I had the dealer text me the height of the bed and the bed Rails
The tailgate down is 41" and the top of the tailgate is 59" OUCH..
The front of my Bighorn setting level here is 57.5"
The rail on my 2006 bed is 53.5"

I don't know how much the 2016 F350 will drop once the trailer is on the truck but 5" is a lot... My 06 will drop about 2-3" with the trailer connected and ready to roll..

Thanks Duane for the info on the blocks. That could make some difference. We'll see I guess..

It looks like that is going to be my problem...

BC

- - - Updated - - -

Bob. I'm currently driving my fourth Dodge/RAM. I didn't own these trucks because the were Dodges, but because they all had Cummins diesels in them. The Cummins has a great reputation. My latest, a 2015, has the Aisin in it with the 3.42 rear end. Some say the Aisin is as good or slightly better than the Allison. Good luck in your decision making.


Thanks Burnie.. I still have to go check out the Dodges. Hope you're doing well.
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
Thanks Duane... Also Hi Dan...
I had the dealer text me the height of the bed and the bed Rails
The tailgate down is 41" and the top of the tailgate is 59" OUCH..
The front of my Bighorn setting level here is 57.5"
The rail on my 2006 bed is 53.5"

I don't know how much the 2016 F350 will drop once the trailer is on the truck but 5" is a lot... My 06 will drop about 2-3" with the trailer connected and ready to roll..

Thanks Duane for the info on the blocks. That could make some difference. We'll see I guess..

It looks like that is going to be my problem...

BC
. Maybe the dealer would drive it over to your rig and back it under for a visual.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
For clarification, the policies offered by auto manufacturers are not extended warranty's, they are service contracts.

This may be what you are eluding to but guess it depends upon what you purchase. A service contract, such as the one on my truck that came with the truck, that has now expired, was for oil changes, lubes etc but does not cover broken parts. An extended warranty is to extended the "warranty" on parts not "service" most vehicles do not have service beyond the first or second oil change. Apples and oranges.

I pretty much go by the Consumer Reports, and Dave Ramsey theory. Extended contracts are a waste of money.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
We got ripped off on our extended warranty that we had on our previous Heartland Trail Runner by not reading the fine print.

Long story short . . . the extended warranty offered to pay $150 of an over $3000 repair bill . . . A F T E R we paid the $150 deductable, of course.

However, after reading the fine print we discovered that there was a way to opt out . . . which we did!

And the money we got back for the unused portion of said warranty was part of our down payment on our Prowler . . . which doesn't have an extended warranty on it.
 

porthole

Retired
This may be what you are eluding to but guess it depends upon what you purchase. A service contract, such as the one on my truck that came with the truck, that has now expired, was for oil changes, lubes etc but does not cover broken parts. An extended warranty is to extended the "warranty" on parts not "service" most vehicles do not have service beyond the first or second oil change. Apples and oranges.

I pretty much go by the Consumer Reports, and Dave Ramsey theory. Extended contracts are a waste of money.

Maintenance contracts usually are a waste of money, and they follow the factory schedule. Many of us do not follow the factory schedules.

Semantics - oil changes are maintenance contracts, repairs are service contracts. Protection plans, ESP, whatever they call it, you are purchasing a contract to have covered items repaired for a contracted length of time and or mileage. These plans typically may have additional features and as such almost always start on the in service date of the vehicle, then cover the listed repairs after basic bumper to bumper coverage ends.

Most extended contracts are a waste of money, but not necessarily so with autos and trucks. Typical markup is 100%, so if you can get a 7 or 8 year, 125,000 mile extension for $1000 to $1800 it may be worth it, or it may not.

$1500 or so on a $70,000 truck or spending 2-300 bucks on a $1000 dollar TV, which is a complete waste of money.

When I worked in new cars it was so much easier calling customers and letting them now their breakdown was a covered item and they would only be responsible for the deductible, opposed to trying to sell a 3-4000 dollar trans replacement etc.
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
I've always agreed that extended warranty contracts are not to your advantage. Odds are you will never use it, "but" if you need it, would be a blessing. We purchased our first ever extended warranty contract when we bought our Big Horn. We used it three times. A new convection microwave, two new dump valves, and an awning motor... in total, we broke even, but would have saved if we had not purchased the contract and did the repairs myself... we'll not likely buy one again.
 

mikeandconnie

Well-known member
I traded my 2011 Chevy SWD 80000 miles in today for a 2016 GMC 3500 DRW and negotiated a good price on a 7 year 100000 GM bumper to bumper no deductible warranty. I had my 2011 in the shop only once at 65000 miles for a Nox sensor and it was replaced under the power train warranty. With the End of the year 20% rebates and excellent trade in I could not pass up on this. Also, I feel better under a warranty when traveling away from home and was surprise I could get 7 years.



Mike
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
Those with GM products. The next time you are in to the dealer for some reason have them print out the warranty list on your vehicle (the one that they probably will not tell you about unitl after you have bought the high priced one they want to sell you). You might be surprised what is there that you are not aware of. There are currently 7 different warranties on my truck. Some running until 2018 and one until 2023. Most are 100 to 125K. They run the gambit from diesel fuel smell to injectors and related parts including the CP4.

Not that a dealer would sell you a warranty that you did not need or anything.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Bob, don't settle on anything less than the 3.73 differential and the 8 ft. bed.

The last truck we bought, my wife found it on an internet advertisement from another dealership (100 miles away) than the one I always buy vehicles from. They got the truck for me to test drive and we cut the deal.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Thanks guys for the info. I went to a Chevy dealer and they had a 2016 LTE (?). Cloth seats but said they would change out the seats for leather for an added cost.... Long bed and a dully.. All white but the same problem as with the Ford. The top of the tailgate is 59"... I don't know if I can get it under my trailer without dragging it nose up. I don't want to do that. Porthole gave me an idea that might work on the Ford which has a top of tailgate of 58".. Still I need to know if I can get under my trailer and hitch up to the truck if it will ride level. It rides right close to level with my 2006 and it is only 53" to top of tailgate. Big difference.

If any of you would measure the top of tailgate or top of bed rails near the back of the truck without the trailer it would give me some in-site of what I might expect. Also if you are getting ready to travel what the height of the tailgate/back bed rail is when you are hooked up and ready to roll..

Thanks for all the help. I guess I will know before the end of the month.

BC
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Those with GM products. The next time you are in to the dealer for some reason have them print out the warranty list on your vehicle (the one that they probably will not tell you about unitl after you have bought the high priced one they want to sell you). You might be surprised what is there that you are not aware of. There are currently 7 different warranties on my truck. Some running until 2018 and one until 2023. Most are 100 to 125K. They run the gambit from diesel fuel smell to injectors and related parts including the CP4.

Not that a dealer would sell you a warranty that you did not need or anything.

I'll be going in soon for an oil change and a Recall notice . . .

I'll have them print me out that list!

Truck50000miles-IMAG0357.jpg
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Just for you, Bob, I went out into the cold (which I'm allergic to) and measured from the ground to the top of the tailgate on my 2014 Ford dually two wheel drive (no trailer connected) and it measured just under 54".
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Just for you, Bob, I went out into the cold (which I'm allergic to) and measured from the ground to the top of the tailgate on my 2014 Ford dually two wheel drive (no trailer connected) and it measured just under 54".

Yeah...Thanks Rex. I appreciate your effort. Is your Ford a F250 or F350. That could make a difference. That is about the same as my F250. I plan to check with the dealer and see if I can get under my trailer and if the 2016 F350 will drop enough to give me room to turn and not hit the bed rail...

Thanks
BC

BTW.. I am having a hard time posting on this forum. I use Window Explore on all other forums except this one. I have to use Chrome, which I do not really like. However in Chrome if I try to respond to a post and reply with quote I can't use the space between words. I had to copy the Quote and then past it into the regular edit window. Anyone having this problem.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
BTW.. I am having a hard time posting on this forum. I use Window Explore on all other forums except this one. I have to use Chrome, which I do not really like. However in Chrome if I try to respond to a post and reply with quote I can't use the space between words. I had to copy the Quote and then past it into the regular edit window. Anyone having this problem.

This problem has been going on here for a couple of months . . . and is an issue in both Windblows Exploder and Chrome.

It only does this when you quote someone . . .

What to do after a quote is to just type one letter . . . then hit the enter key to move the curser down one line . . . then all will be normal.

When you are done typing your post, just move the curser up to that first letter and delete it before clicking on 'submit'.
 

porthole

Retired
Thanks guys for the info. I went to a Chevy dealer and they had a 2016 LTE (?). Cloth seats but said they would change out the seats for leather for an added cost.... Long bed and a dully.. All white but the same problem as with the Ford. The top of the tailgate is 59"... I don't know if I can get it under my trailer without dragging it nose up. I don't want to do that. Porthole gave me an idea that might work on the Ford which has a top of tailgate of 58".. Still I need to know if I can get under my trailer and hitch up to the truck if it will ride level. It rides right close to level with my 2006 and it is only 53" to top of tailgate. Big difference.

If any of you would measure the top of tailgate or top of bed rails near the back of the truck without the trailer it would give me some in-site of what I might expect. Also if you are getting ready to travel what the height of the tailgate/back bed rail is when you are hooked up and ready to roll..

Thanks for all the help. I guess I will know before the end of the month.

BC

Bob,
Forgot to mention yesterday, the rear suspension is different on the 2011 and up trucks, so it really is not as easy to compare your 06 with a 2011+. The springs and axle position are a little different, so, what may be higher then your truck empty could be the same or lower then your truck loaded. Hence the reason many folks have added airbags.

Unfortunately, the only way you may get the answer you need is to find a dealer that is willing to let you drop the trailer on a hitch on the truck you are interested in.

You could wait until Goshen, I'm sure there may be truck or two of the models you are interested in and perhaps a willing owner to back under your trailer for you to see.
 
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