I have a WFC 8955PEC converter in a new to me 2011 Edge M18 that has a neon light on all the time for the fridge circuit.I have changed the 20 amp. fuse and it still comes on.The fuse appears good ,what puzzles me is the fridge control panel and interior fridge lights all work with the neon fuse light on.I thought the neon lights indicated no power on that circuit??What is happening??
Neon light stays on with good fuse??
- Thread starter sunflower
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Bogie
Well-known member
You should check the load side of the fuse with a meter to assure it is powered (12 volts). I know you replaced the existing fuse with another one, but if there is a problem in the circuit, the new fuse could blow the moment you put it in thereby keeping the light on. Also, the only way to be completely sure a fuse is good, is to use a continuity tester (meter) the check it.
As far as the lights on the fridge control are concerned, you should verify the fuse in question is correctly labeled and indeed does connect to the fridge.
(stranger things have happened).
The only other thing I can think of at the moment would be a problem with the sensing circuit is keeping the light on. Though I have not heard of any problems with these myself, someone else may have more experience in this area.
As far as the lights on the fridge control are concerned, you should verify the fuse in question is correctly labeled and indeed does connect to the fridge.
(stranger things have happened).
The only other thing I can think of at the moment would be a problem with the sensing circuit is keeping the light on. Though I have not heard of any problems with these myself, someone else may have more experience in this area.
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danemayer
Well-known member
Either power is getting through that fuse despite the LED being illuminated, or it's getting power through a different fuse, as previously suggested.
Of the 2 possibilities, the much more likely one is that power goes through a different fuse and the box is mis-labeled.
I also think you'll need to check that fuse with an ohm meter before you can make progress on figuring out what's wrong.
One other thing - I don't think the refrigerator circuit normally uses a 20 amp fuse. So either that fuse goes to something else, or the previous owner had some type of problem and put in a larger fuse to try and fix it.
Of the 2 possibilities, the much more likely one is that power goes through a different fuse and the box is mis-labeled.
I also think you'll need to check that fuse with an ohm meter before you can make progress on figuring out what's wrong.
One other thing - I don't think the refrigerator circuit normally uses a 20 amp fuse. So either that fuse goes to something else, or the previous owner had some type of problem and put in a larger fuse to try and fix it.
I am going out to the storage site today with a multimeter.The fridge is a 3 way fridge and has a 12 volt setting and a 12 volt heater element I presume so that could account for the 20 amp. fuse??Maybe the fused 12 volt circuit is only for the 12 volt element and the electronics is on another circuit that is not labeled as such.The part that I found confusing is that when I changed the original fuse the fridge was turned off and the fuse looked good,new fuse may have gone instantly but I did not notice.The neon indicator beside the fuse goes out with no fuse,isn't that the same as a open fuse.Why wouldn't it stay on then also.?The 20 amp.is shown as the original size and the labeling in hand writing seems to say refrid.
danemayer
Well-known member
A working fuse essential has zero resistance, so if it's ok, and there's a load on the circuit, with a path to ground, all the current should flow through the fuse. None should make it through the LED, which is why if everything is ok, the LED is off.
When the fuse blows, assuming there's a load on the circuit, and a path to ground, a small amount of current will flow through the LED, causing it to illuminate.
So I would think either the fuse is blown, or the LED has a defect, or there's something on the back of the fuse box causing a problem.
Blown fuse is most likely.
wdk450
Well-known member
MOST current RV ammonia adsorption refrigerators are not GAS, but GAS/AC (2 way). Many years ago they USED to be mainly 3 way (Gas/110 VAC/12VDC). It is just as easy to have a 12 VDC heating element for a refrig as it is to have a 110 VAC heating element. The big drawback is the current draw of about 10 times the 110 VAC draw for the 12 VDC circuit. My refrig pulls about 6 amps 110VAC, which would translate to 60 amps 12VDC for the same heating power.
The 3 way ammonia adsorption refrigerators are still made: http://www.amazon.com/Norcold-Inc-Refrigerators-N641-3-Refrigerator/dp/B002OWCPVE
