Norcold 2118 ; Adding fans to exterior

[NHCelt]

Hi all. I am presently in FL and running my Norcold 2118 on a setting of 9. Seems to be cooling fine, but it is only in the 80's during the day and 10 is the highest setting. All inner seals are good and the unit functions well...but throws a lot of heat out of the back.

It seems like Heartland has one vent fan running in the rear exterior compartment. Has anyone added fans, and if so what fan did you use and what was the result. The diagram for the frig shows multiple fans, so I assume that there is plenty of 12 v available to run them...
Thanks in advance!

 

[cookie]

I added fans to the back of my Dometic RM1350. I got the fans at a computer shop.
They were 12 volt fans at about $10 each.
Quieter and the fridge temp is more stabil.

Peace
Dave

 

[Gary521]

I have the same Bighorn and refrigerator that you do. If you look at the parts list for the 2118, it say that there are three fans on the back (unless I am misreading the diagram ). One low and two high. Maybe check and see I they are all working. My refrigerator section works OK but the freezer could work better.

 

[Bobby A]

I added fans to the back of my Dometic RM1350. I got the fans at a computer shop.
They were 12 volt fans at about $10 each.
Quieter and the fridge temp is more stabil.

Peace
Dave

I to use the 12 volt fans that I have bought at Radio Shack, but I was reading on the box that the continued use equates to just a little over a year. Someone on this forum told me about a fan that the same size as the 12 volt but plugs into your electric. The continued use time is something like 6 years. I did purchase it but have not installed it yet. On my last 12 volt fan I replaced I waited to long and when I did replace it there was evidence of it getting to hot cause I seen a dark colored spot on the motor. I will be switching to the electric one this summer.

 

[travelin2]

We have the 2118. There are 3 fans as noted earlier.
If yours isn't cooling then like ours last fall likely the thermostat has failed. Mobile tech with Thetford replaced our faulty thermostat. Now ours is set on 6 and will freeze items on the top shelf over night
If you have a ladder, remove the top grill and check if those upper 2 fans are operating and the single down by the power block.
I'm guessing thermostat because once we replaced same ours works great. Better than our previous 1210 model.
If you want to bypass the thermostat it is fastened to the rear of the unit near the top on the left side looking at the rear of the unit from outside inside the upper grill. You need a ladder.
If it's still under warranty call a mobile tech authorized to service norcold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wdk450]

Check out the RV refigeration improvement items listed here: http://rvcoolingunit.com/-Improve-your-Cooling-Performance-items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

Besides the fans, take note of the baffles that direct the external cooling heat exchange airflow in the optimum way. Also, be sure that the empty spaces at the sides and top of your refrig are stuffed with fiberglass insulation batting.

 

[NHCelt]

Check out the RV refigeration improvement items listed here: http://rvcoolingunit.com/-Improve-your-Cooling-Performance-items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

Besides the fans, take note of the baffles that direct the external cooling heat exchange airflow in the optimum way. Also, be sure that the empty spaces at the sides and top of your refrig are stuffed with fiberglass insulation batting.

Thanks, Bill. My unit seems to be functioning normally, and all fans are running. I really was only concerned that I had to run it on 8 to get to that point.

Have you added any of these baffles...seems like a good idea to help the fans with the cooling?

Dave

 

[SNOKING]

I bypassed the fan thremostat for a while, however in heavy rain the fans pulled in enough moisture to trip the safety switch, and I had to reset it with a magnet.

Check the ducting at the top. There is a post here with a diagram of how the baffles/ducting should be installed. 7 will start freezing refrig stuff on ours.

Freezer will not keep ice cream solid. Chris

 

[Shortest Straw]

Check out the RV refigeration improvement items listed here: http://rvcoolingunit.com/-Improve-your-Cooling-Performance-items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

Besides the fans, take note of the baffles that direct the external cooling heat exchange airflow in the optimum way. Also, be sure that the empty spaces at the sides and top of your refrig are stuffed with fiberglass insulation batting.

I have been thinking about doing this for a couple of months now. Thank you for the link. Is there a certain set up to install on the backside to help move air there as well or just upgrading the fans is enough?

- - - Updated - - -

I bypassed the fan thremostat for a while, however in heavy rain the fans pulled in enough moisture to trip the safety switch, and I had to reset it with a magnet.

Check the ducting at the top. There is a post here with a diagram of how the baffles/ducting should be installed. 7 will start freezing refrig stuff on ours.

Freezer will not keep ice cream solid. Chris

Ours will not keep ice cream solid either. I am not sure why. Maybe the density of it.

 

[wdk450]

I have been thinking about doing this for a couple of months now. Thank you for the link. Is there a certain set up to install on the backside to help move air there as well or just upgrading the fans is enough?

A couple of years ago I found a GREAT website on RV refrigerators including the vital subject of outside compartment airflow and venting. Unfortunately, the repairer retired and took down his website. He stated that mounting an ammonia adsorption RV refrigerator in a slide was about the worst design possible for good venting heat exchange airflow. Ideally you want a straight up "chimney" like the motorhomes have. You want the upward flow of air to NOT have any bypass paths around the heat exchange fins on the refrigerator, nor any "dead air" cavities surrounding the refrigerator box. To that end the fins on the rear of the refrigerator should be 0 to 1/4 inch maximum from the rear enclosure surface (thus eliminating any bypass cooling air routes). All dead air cavities should be either/and stuffed with insulation batting / blocked off with panels. I have insulation batting along the back of my refrig enclosure touching the rear refrig fins. The rising airflow at the top, square, finned device (condenser) should have a direct path to the top exhaust vent. That is what the baffle is for.
Here is a link to a drawing of my homemade baffle from years back. I am considering adding thin exhaust fans mounted to the exhaust vent cover, and maybe even a bubble wrap foil insulation external "tent" for my entire kitchen slide for use in the hot California summers.

View attachment Slide Refrigerator Baffle System Mod. (1).pdf

Sorry if it didn't load right. Contact me with e-mail for good attached image.

 

[Shortest Straw]

A couple of years ago I found a GREAT website on RV refrigerators including the vital subject of outside compartment airflow and venting. Unfortunately, the repairer retired and took down his website. He stated that mounting an ammonia adsorption RV refrigerator in a slide was about the worst design possible for good venting heat exchange airflow. Ideally you want a straight up "chimney" like the motorhomes have. You want the upward flow of air to NOT have any bypass paths around the heat exchange fins on the refrigerator, nor any "dead air" cavities surrounding the refrigerator box. To that end the fins on the rear of the refrigerator should be 0 to 1/4 inch maximum from the rear enclosure surface (thus eliminating any bypass cooling air routes). All dead air cavities should be either/and stuffed with insulation batting / blocked off with panels. I have insulation batting along the back of my refrig enclosure touching the rear refrig fins. The rising airflow at the top, square, finned device (condenser) should have a direct path to the top exhaust vent. That is what the baffle is for.
Here is a link to a drawing of my homemade baffle from years back. I am considering adding thin exhaust fans mounted to the exhaust vent cover, and maybe even a bubble wrap foil insulation external "tent" for my entire kitchen slide for use in the hot California summers.

View attachment 50658

Sorry if it didn't load right. Contact me with e-mail for good attached image.

Thank you. I am going to check this out this weekend and see what I can do. Lowes is close so should be able to get it done.

 

[wdk450]

Thank you. I am going to check this out this weekend and see what I can do. Lowes is close so should be able to get it done.

Your 2015 Oakmont probably has a power awning system. Too bad! I found that the awning's 3 foot rigid steel rod with a right angle on the end was ideal for stuffing insulation bats into the refrigerator top and side spaces with the refrigerator in place.

BTW, with all I learned about ammonia adsorption refrigerator external venting flow requirements, I wondered why the refrigerator manufacturers didn't just equip the back of the refrigerator coils area with a big piece of sheet metal to channel this airflow???

 

[BusManRG]

We have the 2118. There are 3 fans as noted earlier.
If yours isn't cooling then like ours last fall likely the thermostat has failed. Mobile tech with Thetford replaced our faulty thermostat. Now ours is set on 6 and will freeze items on the top shelf over night
If you have a ladder, remove the top grill and check if those upper 2 fans are operating and the single down by the power block.
I'm guessing thermostat because once we replaced same ours works great. Better than our previous 1210 model.
If you want to bypass the thermostat it is fastened to the rear of the unit near the top on the left side looking at the rear of the unit from outside inside the upper grill. You need a ladder.
If it's still under warranty call a mobile tech authorized to service norcold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While doing some work on our BH today we decided to check out the refrigerator fans. Sure enough, 3 fans, but none running. Does anyone know what the thermostat is set at? I'm assuming it's based on outside ambient air and not refer temperatures. The refrigerator was running and interior temps we're ok, but fridge doors had not been open for a week so easier to stay cool. Exterior temps were mid 80's so not too hot yet.

Just curious and wanting to make sure all is working as it should be before we're out of warranty!

Sandy

 

[wdk450]

The temperature switch is set for 130 degrees f. See: http://rvcoolingunit.com/Fan-Switch...nser-fan-Surface-temp-activated-P1802601.aspx

If your ambient high temps are just 80 degrees, it might not be reaching the 130 degree switch on point in the cooling unit exchange air path.

 

[BusManRG]

The temperature switch is set for 130 degrees f. See: http://rvcoolingunit.com/Fan-Switch...nser-fan-Surface-temp-activated-P1802601.aspx

If your ambient high temps are just 80 degrees, it might not be reaching the 130 degree switch on point in the cooling unit exchange air path.

Well here in the central valley our ambient high temps are reaching much higher than 80, LOL, but it was only about 80 when we were checking that morning. So that makes sense. I'll keep an eye on them when it's warmer out. Thanks!

Sandy

 

[wdk450]

Well here in the central valley our ambient high temps are reaching much higher than 80, LOL, but it was only about 80 when we were checking that morning. So that makes sense. I'll keep an eye on them when it's warmer out. Thanks!

Sandy

Yeah, I'm in East Porterville, temps 105 for the last few days and for the indefinite future.

Fire planes/helicopters flying over low and a big smoke cloud just across 190 on/near the reservation. Can't even smell the smoke - yet.

 

[Gary521]

On as Norcold, the fan thermostat is mounted on the top condenser fins. It works on surface contact temp of the fins and not air temperature. The stat turns on at 130 and off at 115. So it only works when the fridge is cooling. If the fans are not working with the fridge trying to cool, it could be the thermostat. Pull of the top vent and the stat is screwed to the left side of the condenser. I mounted a new stat by attaching to the large tubing that feeds the condenser fins. There are stats that can clip on the tubing, I attached mine with radiator clamps. The reason I added a new stat is that I added more cooling fans. The stat and fans work.