Oh *&^%^

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Pulled a dumb stunt. Let the #1 gray tank overfill until it backed up in the shower. Caught it pretty quick we thought, but now we have water dripping out of the bottom cover around where the drain pipe comes out, and it looks like the bottom may be bulging slightly. When I try to lift up on it, it doesn't really move, but I'm concerned I may have water pooled there. Anyone else had this happen?? Can I poke a small hole in the cover under the bulge?
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
If you are talking about the possibility of water in the underbelly, yes some have poked a hole(s) in the correplast to drain the water. The best way would be to take out the bolts holding it up and lower it and then let it dry out. Also there is some fiberglass insulation above the correplast which could be soaked with water and should be replaced if it got that wet.
 

evolvingpowercat

Well-known member
just curious, do you have an estimate of how much more grey water it took to reach the overfill point after the tank indicator 3/3 full light came on?

I have been testing fate in my Edge as it seems that I can take one more shower generating grey water even after the 3/3 full light comes on, and nothing seems to overflow. Is that normal Heartland design to not have the drain connection and vent connection on the top of the grey tank watertight?

I had assumed that if I got the grey tank totally full it would just start to back up into the drain line and the lowest drain in the RV is the tub drain and that is all that would happen is that I would be taking a shower and water would start to stop draining out of the tub because tank got full and started to back up.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
just curious, do you have an estimate of how much more grey water it took to reach the overfill point after the tank indicator 3/3 full light came on?

I have been testing fate in my Edge as it seems that I can take one more shower generating grey water even after the 3/3 full light comes on, and nothing seems to overflow. Is that normal Heartland design to not have the drain connection and vent connection on the top of the grey tank watertight?

I had assumed that if I got the grey tank totally full it would just start to back up into the drain line and the lowest drain in the RV is the tub drain and that is all that would happen is that I would be taking a shower and water would start to stop draining out of the tub because tank got full and started to back up.

I can't tell you how full it was, because I honestly don't remember when I last emptied it LOL. We've been on the go a lot the last couple of days. I can tell you it looked pregnant underneath, and that when I bit the bullet and dropped the correplast I got a second shower. There was quite a bit of water. Thank goodness it wasn't the black tank!!!!! I had always assumed it would back up into the shower or another drain also, but it never really backed up. My wife just said the the shower was drainig slow???? This was has the foil type insulation so it should dry in a couple of hours and I can put it back up.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
Might help you next time...If you are parked with hookups there is no reason to leave the gray tank valves closed except maybe to build up a little water to flush your hose after dumping your black tank. Mine are always open and I listen for the toilet to burp indicating it's time to dump. As far as those worthless tank indicators go..I haven't looked at them in a couple years...Don
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
You might need to investigate further to see if the drain pipe going into the gray tank is ok.


Am I correct in assuming that if you overfill the gray tank it should back up into the drain and not leak out???? When I get back next week, I need to pull the bottom off again anyhow and check out the black tank. I always leave the tank valves closed and use the gray water to flush my sewer hose after I dump the black tank. It seems like my black tank is not completely emptying even if I use the flush, and it also seems to leak when it should be closed.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I need to caution you about poking a hole in the belly material.
Be certain that your tank, or anything else is not against the belly.
You could poke a hole in the tank as well.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Am I correct in assuming that if you overfill the gray tank it should back up into the drain and not leak out???? When I get back next week, I need to pull the bottom off again anyhow and check out the black tank. I always leave the tank valves closed and use the gray water to flush my sewer hose after I dump the black tank. It seems like my black tank is not completely emptying even if I use the flush, and it also seems to leak when it should be closed.

Hi Jan and Bill,

I think the normal behavior of the gray #1 tank is that when full, the shower will have water on the floor, and it will not drain. If the drain pipe is cracked or fits poorly going into the gray tank, that would explain both the slow draining and the water in the underbelly.

The black tank issues are likely completely separate. It could be as simple as a little bit of TP trapped in the gate valve, keeping it from closing completely. When that happens, some or all of the water you flush just leaks out leaving mostly solids behind in the tank. That makes it much harder to clean the tank, and more likely to get clumps that clog the outlet at the gate valve. I've had that happen a couple of times and usually have to flush and back flush the black tank 4 or 5 times to get it really clean. There's an add-on that make it much easier to manage.

If you get a clear extension and an external gate valve to put on your sewer outlet, like this one, you can see what's coming out of the drain to know when it's running clear. It has a fitting to attach a hose so you can run water back toward the gate valve to help clean it out. There's also an external gate valve which will solve several problems. First, if you close the external valve, even with water leaking through the black gate valve, you won't lose all the flushed water and dumping the tank will be easier. Second, when you remove the cap to hook up the sewer hose, you won't have black water come out on your shoes. You just open the valve after connecting the hose. Third, when flushing the tank, the external gate valve will allow you to back flush the tank. Here's how I do it:

In normal operation, dump the black tank and run the internal black tank flush for several minutes until what's coming out is clear and running at a constant, relatively slow rate. Then close the external valve and keep the flush running for 4 minutes or so (depends on how much water flow you have - I estimate I'm putting in 4-5 gal/min if the campground has good pressure, but that's with high volume pressure regulators). Open the valve and drain again to get it running clear. I normally do this 3 or 4 times to make sure everything is out of the tank, before I close the black tank gate valve. Then run the black tank flush for a minute to put a few gallons of water back in the tank.

Sometimes the water coming out the drain will slow down to almost nothing, indicating a clog at the black tank valve. Allow the black tank flush to continue flushing, but keep track of time so you don't overfill the black tank. Usually the clogs will break up within 2 or 3 minutes at most. If you get to 4 or 5 minutes, turn off the internal flush and blast water through the flush pro's fitting (you need a check valve to be sure you don't contaminate the campground water by getting sewage flowing back through the hose).

BE VERY CAREFUL when dumping the tanks. Do not let yourself get distracted by other people or start looking at other things. It's too easy to forget you're filling the black tank.

And if none of this works, you may just have a leaky black tank valve - it happens. There's also a possibility that when the black tank opening was cut, the cutout disk fell in and is up against the gate valve. Next time you're at the dealer, they can open it up and resolve the problem under warranty. In the meantime, that external gate valve will let you manage the situation.
 

Manzan

Well-known member
20 some years ago, our first travel trailer shower p-trap was too long and my weight broke the seal around the strainer and drain in the floor of the shower. I found this because I saw water running out one side of the trailer and did some investigating. Dealer re-plumed and sealed the drain and all was fine for the next 15 years we had the trailer. Just thought this might give you one more thing to check.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
No more leaks (haven't overfilled it either). Ran a fan for a few hours to dry up the residual moisture, and bolted the cover back up tonight.
 

Paul & Nan

Well-known member
Hi Jan and Bill,

I think the normal behavior of the gray #1 tank is that when full, the shower will have water on the floor, and it will not drain. If the drain pipe is cracked or fits poorly going into the gray tank, that would explain both the slow draining and the water in the underbelly.

The black tank issues are likely completely separate. It could be as simple as a little bit of TP trapped in the gate valve, keeping it from closing completely. When that happens, some or all of the water you flush just leaks out leaving mostly solids behind in the tank. That makes it much harder to clean the tank, and more likely to get clumps that clog the outlet at the gate valve. I've had that happen a couple of times and usually have to flush and back flush the black tank 4 or 5 times to get it really clean. There's an add-on that make it much easier to manage.

If you get a clear extension and an external gate valve to put on your sewer outlet, like this one, you can see what's coming out of the drain to know when it's running clear. It has a fitting to attach a hose so you can run water back toward the gate valve to help clean it out. There's also an external gate valve which will solve several problems. First, if you close the external valve, even with water leaking through the black gate valve, you won't lose all the flushed water and dumping the tank will be easier. Second, when you remove the cap to hook up the sewer hose, you won't have black water come out on your shoes. You just open the valve after connecting the hose. Third, when flushing the tank, the external gate valve will allow you to back flush the tank. Here's how I do it:

In normal operation, dump the black tank and run the internal black tank flush for several minutes until what's coming out is clear and running at a constant, relatively slow rate. Then close the external valve and keep the flush running for 4 minutes or so (depends on how much water flow you have - I estimate I'm putting in 4-5 gal/min if the campground has good pressure, but that's with high volume pressure regulators). Open the valve and drain again to get it running clear. I normally do this 3 or 4 times to make sure everything is out of the tank, before I close the black tank gate valve. Then run the black tank flush for a minute to put a few gallons of water back in the tank.

Sometimes the water coming out the drain will slow down to almost nothing, indicating a clog at the black tank valve. Allow the black tank flush to continue flushing, but keep track of time so you don't overfill the black tank. Usually the clogs will break up within 2 or 3 minutes at most. If you get to 4 or 5 minutes, turn off the internal flush and blast water through the flush pro's fitting (you need a check valve to be sure you don't contaminate the campground water by getting sewage flowing back through the hose).

BE VERY CAREFUL when dumping the tanks. Do not let yourself get distracted by other people or start looking at other things. It's too easy to forget you're filling the black tank.

And if none of this works, you may just have a leaky black tank valve - it happens. There's also a possibility that when the black tank opening was cut, the cutout disk fell in and is up against the gate valve. Next time you're at the dealer, they can open it up and resolve the problem under warranty. In the meantime, that external gate valve will let you manage the situation.

Best tip of all for black tank, DO NOT EVER FLUSH TP. Do not care what kind it is, if you do not put it down you will not have to fight getting it out!!! Keep a covered trash can to contain the TP--throw that away regularly--no real problem with black tank in many years following my Dad's advice on this, and he had no problems for many more years.
 

stevebotts

Active Member
We had this problem with the black tank. It overfilled and flowed onto the top of the tank. Caught it before it got off the top of the tank thank goodness. However, none of your tanks should be leaking even if you do back the grey into the shower. If the seal is tight between the tank and the downpipe into the tank, there should be no leak. When our black tank overflowed, we took the RV in and they found a small opening which was not sealed. That has since been fixed. You probably have this same issue with the grey tank. Of course this can all be avoided by dumping the tanks long before they get to the top.
 
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