Plumbing issues never quit

[beardedone]

Well I am posting this out of frustration. For a higher end trailer I am getting disappointed. I have had issues from plant workers not connecting the abs pipes from the washer to the holding tank, which resulted in a huge flood by the time we noticed it, to now with lots of leaks in the basement. In the interim we had other leaks, some of which I repaired and others that were done on warranty. On top of that I now have a leaking grey water tank.

Today, after de-winterizing just one day ago, I opened the basement door and saw water standing in the storage compartment. I removed the the access panel to find the brass valves for both by-pass valve leaking. The valve has 3 outlets on it and all were leaking on both valves. So, no more water. Back to winter style water management.

So my first question is are those brass valves standard plumbing valves or are they RV specific? The black plastic fittings in them were apparently glued in and cannot be tightened, does that mean the assembly is a total throw away? I am going home instead of travelling and will be ripping out the junk that is there and getting it done right. I do not want to use any rv parts any more for plumbing so I will be parts hunting in "home" supply centres.

Getting it done right is something that Heartland should have done. We have never abused our trailer but it is treating us like we do! I have had too many problems to be anywhere close to happy and I do not understand that Heartland can't do any better. They will not even acknowlege that there are problems! When I bought this Landmark I was impressed by the product support from the clients but I guess mine must have been built at quitting time on a Friday.

 

[newbie]

Gerry, I had to replace one of the 3 way valves also. It was leaking at the threaded connection. When I tried to tighten it, the plastic fitting snapped off in the brass valve. I ordered a replacement Watts three way valve from Mcmaster that was extremely close to the original but not close enough that I didn't have to make some time consuming mods to the UDC to get everything to work. So here are a few things to consider:

1. You should be able to tighten the threaded connection piece that threads into the valve body but only a little bit (1/4 turn) at a time. If it breaks, you'll probably need to replace the valve. I tired and tried but couldn't get the broken plastic fitting out of the valve body. I had tried to tighten the plastic fitting one full rotaion which snapped the plastic fitting.
2. If you have to replace the valve, I would order a replacement through Heartland so it's an exact fit.
3. Make sure you label the three lines so you remember which goes back where on the three way valve.

Good luck,
John

 

[2010augusta]

As far as I can tell from the long hunt I did trying to find a replacement 3-way-valve, it is best to just order it from Heartland. The valve cost $49.00 or $45.## with the Owners Club discount. The "new ones shipped out from HL have fittings that can be removed. The ones that are installed CANNOT be adjusted or tightened, I had to drill out a broken plastic fitting and then re tap the valve to get the new fitting in place.

 

[Willym]

An obviously loose connection should be tightened first, but tighter leaky joints are best taken apart cleaned and remade if that is possible. Usually tightening up an already tight joint will not help and will often make things worse. Threaded connections can be remade with PTFE tape or thread compound.

Gerry are you sure that these brass valves got winterized OK? Just a small amount of water in them will overstress them when they freeze up.

Good luck.

Bill

 

[Bobby A]

Yea, I had those aggrevating leaks in the 3 way for months. I was able to remove the plastice fittings, got new ones from an RV dealer near buy and put lots of plummers puddy on the new fittings before I installed them, so far no leaks (knock on wood) its been about 8 months now.

 

[aatauses]

I also had leaks on the 3 way valves. I went to ACE hardward and tried to buy brass elbows---they were out but the sales person looked at what I had and said they were leaking because of very thin plastic fittings. He sold me scheduled 80 elbows, and I have not had it leak again. However, since I was still under warrenty I ask HL to send me replacements. I ask that the elbows not be installed, but Eric said he had no choice, that is the way they come from the factory. They arrived the other day and my plan is to take out the plastic (trying not to break it and damage threads) and then go to ACE and get brass elbows.
al

 

[beardedone]

I also had leaks on the 3 way valves. I went to ACE hardward and tried to buy brass elbows---they were out but the sales person looked at what I had and said they were leaking because of very thin plastic fittings. He sold me scheduled 80 elbows, and I have not had it leak again. However, since I was still under warrenty I ask HL to send me replacements. I ask that the elbows not be installed, but Eric said he had no choice, that is the way they come from the factory. They arrived the other day and my plan is to take out the plastic (trying not to break it and damage threads) and then go to ACE and get brass elbows.
al

Very interesting. If they come from the factory with the plastic installed then maybe I shouldn't order any. I'll try to get the plastic out and re-fit them. If it doesn't work I will go to a simple 3 way valve and just leave it behind the UDC. Lots cheaper.

Gerry

 

[wyleyrabbit]

I'll throw my $0.02 worth in here.

In my experience, the plastic fittings (argh, my blood pressure goes up just thinking about them) that screw into the bypass valves were NOT glued in. Tightly screwed in, yes. Likely, if you're seeing white on the threads, that's probably the standard white Teflon thread tape and not glue.

I had to work really hard to get one of these things out, because it had cracked and when I tried to loosen it, it broke. Fortunately the auto-parts place I went to allowed me to use their tools, so I used a bench vise, a heat gun, and a flathead screwdriver. I was able to jam the flathead screwdriver in to the plastic at an angle so I could get some leverage, then I softened the whole mess up with a heat gun. The plastic fitting came out and I was able to do all of this without damaging any of the threads. The rest of the fittings just screwed out intact.

You may find my old thread(s) interesting and helpful:
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/15249-Universal-Docking-Center-Plumbing-Upgrades (the second thread is linked on my first message)

I agree with you about the leaks though, if this were a vehicle there would have been a recall.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[beardedone]

Thanks Wileyrabbit, the idea of the heat gun is very good. When I get back to our membership CG tomorrow to park it I will cut the hose off and go home and do what you did. It will certainly be a good starting point for my refit. Heartland will not recognize it when I am finished!

 

[wyleyrabbit]

Thanks Wileyrabbit, the idea of the heat gun is very good. When I get back to our membership CG tomorrow to park it I will cut the hose off and go home and do what you did. It will certainly be a good starting point for my refit. Heartland will not recognize it when I am finished!

Beardedone,

Please update us on how your project goes. Not sure if you've had the chance to read my other thread about my re-do of the UDC, but I recommend it. Alan has now also done his, and I think we've both significantly improved what we got from the factory.

Chris

 

[beardedone]

Beardedone,

Please update us on how your project goes. Not sure if you've had the chance to read my other thread about my re-do of the UDC, but I recommend it. Alan has now also done his, and I think we've both significantly improved what we got from the factory.

Chris

Well I took the 3 way valves out and cut the hose clamps off with my Dremel tool, which went very well, and then used a heat gun enough to soften the black plastic. After a short period of time the plastic was soft enough to push an oversize straight screwdriver in and twisted it out. Using a wire brush on the Dremel tool I then cleaned it all up nicely. I inserted a 90 degree brass street elbow in with lots of teflon tape. Connected the hose to it and everything is nice. No leaks. I also bought copper manifolds and fittings together with a new crimper and brass connectors, if needed. Now I am laying out my installation plan to do it right away. I sometimes get a leak in the back of the UDC from the city water connection. I upgraded this right away and also put a brass 45 on the inlet, again with lots of teflon tape, which was snugged down very tightly. This seemed to "pull" everything together very tightly and now no dribbles there either. For my convenience I put a quick garden hose connector on the black water flusher inlet and now when I dump I just have to push the hose on and not fiddle around with the standard hose connector.

 

[2010augusta]

So is the trick to removing the plastic elbows useing heat? I know when I tried to remove one, it just snaped off and I had to chip it out and re-thread the valve. I might try to removve the other ones, if I can come up with a heat gun.

 

[wyleyrabbit]

So is the trick to removing the plastic elbows useing heat? I know when I tried to remove one, it just snaped off and I had to chip it out and re-thread the valve. I might try to removve the other ones, if I can come up with a heat gun.

Alan,

Yes, that's what I had to do last summer, and fortunately the place I went to buy parts was nice enough to allow me to use their bench vise, heat gun, and screwdriver. After the plastic softened up enough, I jammed a large flat-headed screwdriver in on an angle and it turned out easily.

Chris

 

[tmcran]

I was at an RV dealer yesterday that is also a dealer for HL. A fellow brought in his 08 BH. He had an extended warranty and had a very long list of items that needed repair. I was standing behind him waiting to check out. Best I can remember--3-4 water leaks, trim coming off around various places, one slide rubbing on the floor, water heater having some type of problem and some others I don't recall. After he finished I checked out and talked with him . He said he has had more problems with the BH in two years than he had in 5 years with his Hitchhiker. He was up set with the quality of the materials and how the QC was almost non-existent. He stated he would take a beating but when the extended warranty ran out he was getting another 5er. Said he was leaning toward the Sunnybrook as he had friends that were very happy with the SB. He told me that NuWa was back in business and he would really consider the Hitchhiker again. ( don't know about that.) I told him I had had several leaks and was at the dealers several weeks the first 3 months i had it for leaks . I really don't understand why HL can't get leaks and materials worked out. I don't expect to have to rewire or redo the fuel system on my truck. I guess talking with him and seeing the thread sort of rekindled the frustration I had with the Sundance the first few months I had it. I appreciate the info and pics of the fixes you folks have done.

 

[beardedone]

So is the trick to removing the plastic elbows useing heat? I know when I tried to remove one, it just snaped off and I had to chip it out and re-thread the valve. I might try to removve the other ones, if I can come up with a heat gun.

Hi, this worked very well, was painless, and speedy. No mess or grinding at all. All I had to do was buff up the threads with the dremel tool. In all it took about fifteeen minutes to remove all six (both 3-way valves).