Is anybody else having problem with their refrigerator ? We have a 3610RE with a double door refrigerator that has been replaced once still does not cool while traveling temp on panel is 52 degrees while inside temp shows 59 degrees this is a health issues with food not kept at the proper temp. Has been in the shop 3 times for the same problem.....expensive RV that I am beginning to think of as junk....fixing to ck on the Lemon law to see if it applies to our RV. Very disappointed in service after the sale!
Refrigerator
- Thread starter Bayouslug
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: Refridgerator
Hi Bayouslug,
I'm sorry you're having problems with your refrigerator. There have been many threads on this subject and lots of advice. Unfortunately, dealer techs seem to have varied skill levels when trying to address refrigerator problems.
These refrigerators need a couple of things to be right in order to cool correctly.
You've probably found out by now that the warranty service on the refrigerator is from Dometic, although your dealer may have shielded you from this detail. If you don't have the ventilator fan kit, I would suggest calling Dometic directly to discuss whether they warrant their refrigerators to work in Texas, given that temps are often over 100 degrees. Of course they'll say yes. At that point, you can nicely point out to them that they've already wasted a lot of money on trying to make your refrigerator work properly and perhaps a $72 ventilator kit, and an hour of dealer labor would be a good next warranty action.
I think we all share the expectation that 1) things should just work right and 2) that if you take it for service it'll be fixed the first time. Unfortunately, sometimes we have to dive deeper and help direct the activity that leads to a solution.
I hope this info is useful and I wish you good luck going forward.
Hi Bayouslug,
I'm sorry you're having problems with your refrigerator. There have been many threads on this subject and lots of advice. Unfortunately, dealer techs seem to have varied skill levels when trying to address refrigerator problems.
These refrigerators need a couple of things to be right in order to cool correctly.
- The unit has to be level. If it is not, the refrigerant will not flow correctly through the gravity feed tubing of the cooling unit. You should check this yourself with a small level. Note that it's possible for the rig to be level, while the refrigerator is not.
- The refrigerant has to be heated to the correct temperature. Since there are two heat sources, electric and LP, it's unlikely that you would have the same problem with both heaters. Therefore, if the refrigerator cools correctly in one mode, but not in the other, that would be a clue that one heater needs work.
- The fins on the back side of the refrigerator have to have sufficient ventilation. This is difficult when the refrigerator is installed in a slideout because the hot air cannot vent straight up. It's critical that the air flows over the heat transfer fins on the back, before going out the top vent. There should be baffling installed on the backside to direct the air. There are some modification that people on the forum have used to improve the baffling. But step 1 is to verify that it's even there.
In addition, in hot climates like Texas, it may be necessary to install additional, thermostatically controlled fans. Dometic has a Ventilator Kit for this purpose. When the air on the back side of the refrigerator is above a certain temp (90 degrees if I remember correctly), the extra fans come on to move more air. - The refrigerator cannot have air leaks. Opening both doors and staring at what's inside for 30 seconds while deciding what to eat will let all the cold air out of the refrigerator. It may take 4-6 hours to recover. Leaving the doors open for a long time is the same as having a major air leak.
In addition, on the 4 door models, the left-side refrigerator door has a flap that seals the gap between doors. As the left door is closed, the flap rotates into position. If there's a bind in this mechanism, it leaves a large air gap. Make sure this flap is in position.
Similarly, if the seals on the doors are deformed or loose, or the doors are out of adjustment, you'll have air leaks that prevent the refrigerator from cooling correctly. You can check this by closing the door on a dollar bill and pulling it. There should be slight drag. If not, there is a leak.
If you have overpacked the refrigerator, or have large plastic items that block airflow, the cold air will not circulate properly inside the refrigerator. The effect is similar to having an air leak. Dometic reps often recommend getting a small battery-operated fan to place inside the refrigerator to help circulate air. You can get these at most RV dealers, Camping World, and maybe even Walmart.
If the freezer compartment is freezing correctly, but the refrigerator is warm, you almost certainly have an air leak of some kind.
You've probably found out by now that the warranty service on the refrigerator is from Dometic, although your dealer may have shielded you from this detail. If you don't have the ventilator fan kit, I would suggest calling Dometic directly to discuss whether they warrant their refrigerators to work in Texas, given that temps are often over 100 degrees. Of course they'll say yes. At that point, you can nicely point out to them that they've already wasted a lot of money on trying to make your refrigerator work properly and perhaps a $72 ventilator kit, and an hour of dealer labor would be a good next warranty action.
I think we all share the expectation that 1) things should just work right and 2) that if you take it for service it'll be fixed the first time. Unfortunately, sometimes we have to dive deeper and help direct the activity that leads to a solution.
I hope this info is useful and I wish you good luck going forward.
Re: Refridgerator
We had the same problem with our 3670 until the dealer replaced the gas line. The factory line was getting pinched when the slide was in. If that is your problem, have them replace the whole line because the old line may be weakened from getting pinched.
We had the same problem with our 3670 until the dealer replaced the gas line. The factory line was getting pinched when the slide was in. If that is your problem, have them replace the whole line because the old line may be weakened from getting pinched.
Re: Refridgerator
We have a problem with are 3670. if installed in a slide they need to have an extra fan to move the air over the fins. They may need to makke sure the clearance in the back is correct. My was not and I feel that is what cause the problem. Both heartland and domestic need to work together to get this fixed. If they would have installed it correct it may not have failed. Both Heartland and Dometic need to work on a good fix for this.
We have a problem with are 3670. if installed in a slide they need to have an extra fan to move the air over the fins. They may need to makke sure the clearance in the back is correct. My was not and I feel that is what cause the problem. Both heartland and domestic need to work together to get this fixed. If they would have installed it correct it may not have failed. Both Heartland and Dometic need to work on a good fix for this.
wdk450
Well-known member
Re: Refridgerator
This website is the best I have found on RV refrigerators: http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/CoolingD.htm
For our trailers, be sure to read the "Venting" section (especially the last part) b b
Search the Forum for "Refrigerator Venting Modification" for threads on this.
This website is the best I have found on RV refrigerators: http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/CoolingD.htm
For our trailers, be sure to read the "Venting" section (especially the last part) b b
Search the Forum for "Refrigerator Venting Modification" for threads on this.
emm4273610re
Active Member
Re: Refridgerator
I too have a 3610re. My Dometic fridge has made a weed wacking sound since our first trip. The dealer at the second visit now wants to replace the fans per Dometic. So be fair warned about the cooling fans. They are to only run when the temp gets too hot behind the fridge, however mine come on and stay on. Very loud. While at the dealer looked into new Big Horn's noticed the they now have NORCOLD fridges. One has to wonder. Tim
I too have a 3610re. My Dometic fridge has made a weed wacking sound since our first trip. The dealer at the second visit now wants to replace the fans per Dometic. So be fair warned about the cooling fans. They are to only run when the temp gets too hot behind the fridge, however mine come on and stay on. Very loud. While at the dealer looked into new Big Horn's noticed the they now have NORCOLD fridges. One has to wonder. Tim
Re: Refridgerator
It's an easy fix that you can do on your own.
I just talked to a guy with a new Alero Bay MH. He just installed a residential refer after having 2 replacement Norcold refers. Seems that all the RV refers are prone to having issues. Not to mention the Landmark owner that also had Norcold issues.
Wonder no more.
Peace
Dave
My fans were also noisy. I went to a computer repair store and bought a couple of new 12 volt fans. No more noise and they were under $10 each.
It's an easy fix that you can do on your own.
I just talked to a guy with a new Alero Bay MH. He just installed a residential refer after having 2 replacement Norcold refers. Seems that all the RV refers are prone to having issues. Not to mention the Landmark owner that also had Norcold issues.
Wonder no more.
Peace
Dave
gasman
Camp Socializer
Re: Refridgerator
I believe you mentioned that it does not cool while traveling. In Gillette, the Dometic rep explained that the corrugated drain tube that extends to the outside of the vent needs to have the plastic plug in the end of it. I always assumed that this was a bug screen but he said that it is designed to keep the hot air from being sucked into the refrigerator compartment. If it is missing, which is not uncommon, that may well be your problem. Replacement plugs are available at most RV supply stores.
I believe you mentioned that it does not cool while traveling. In Gillette, the Dometic rep explained that the corrugated drain tube that extends to the outside of the vent needs to have the plastic plug in the end of it. I always assumed that this was a bug screen but he said that it is designed to keep the hot air from being sucked into the refrigerator compartment. If it is missing, which is not uncommon, that may well be your problem. Replacement plugs are available at most RV supply stores.
Last edited:
StephenKatSea
Active Member
Re: Refridgerator
Our 3670 is on site in the CA/AZ desert. We struggled for a while and then followed a number of excellent points from this forum. Summer temps are usually well into the 100's. Our non double door, w/o ice maker refrig stays in the mid 30's and it is in a slide on the "sunny side" of our rv.
1) Make sure refrig is level.
2) Fill void pockets which can retain hot air on the exterior with fiberglass insulation mat'l.
3) Verify factory provided backside temp controlled vent fans are working.
4) Force all air on the backside of unit to flow through the uppermost set of fins and tubes before exiting. We used metal roofing strips as baffles and restricted the lower louvers of the upper vent cover.
5) Place small "cube" style individual battery powered fans on top and bottom shelves of the refrig to keep the interior air moving.
We find propane to be the most efficient power source. Again, our thanks to all on this forum for the excellent advice.
Our 3670 is on site in the CA/AZ desert. We struggled for a while and then followed a number of excellent points from this forum. Summer temps are usually well into the 100's. Our non double door, w/o ice maker refrig stays in the mid 30's and it is in a slide on the "sunny side" of our rv.
1) Make sure refrig is level.
2) Fill void pockets which can retain hot air on the exterior with fiberglass insulation mat'l.
3) Verify factory provided backside temp controlled vent fans are working.
4) Force all air on the backside of unit to flow through the uppermost set of fins and tubes before exiting. We used metal roofing strips as baffles and restricted the lower louvers of the upper vent cover.
5) Place small "cube" style individual battery powered fans on top and bottom shelves of the refrig to keep the interior air moving.
We find propane to be the most efficient power source. Again, our thanks to all on this forum for the excellent advice.
I also am having same problem with the 1350 refer on my 2012 landmark Rushmore. took 12 hours to get to 48 degrees on gas sitting in driveway at 90 plus outsde temp. I don't want to spend all summer at the dealer does dometic not have a fix yet, seems to be a common problem they sell them in the south they ought to work in the south
Hello Jsmith and welcome to the forum. Lots of good information here.
If it took only 12 hours to get to 48 degrees, that's pretty good. The question is, did it continue to get colder or did it stay there.
Are you running it at the coldest setting, 5?
We have the RM1350 and it works good for us. Other people no so lucky.
There have been quite a few posts regarding the cooling of the RM1350. And some good fixes.
Here are a couple of forum member solutions.
This one by Mickey.
In the same thread, this one by me.
You can do a search on this forum for other solutions.
Hope this helps.
Peace
Dave
If it took only 12 hours to get to 48 degrees, that's pretty good. The question is, did it continue to get colder or did it stay there.
Are you running it at the coldest setting, 5?
We have the RM1350 and it works good for us. Other people no so lucky.
There have been quite a few posts regarding the cooling of the RM1350. And some good fixes.
Here are a couple of forum member solutions.
This one by Mickey.
In the same thread, this one by me.
You can do a search on this forum for other solutions.
Hope this helps.
Peace
Dave
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Jsmith,
Was the A/C running to cool the inside of the rig? In setting up for our current trip, I turned on the refrigerator mid afternoon to let it cool so we could load it up in the morning and leave. I wasn't running the A/C and it got into the low 90s inside the rig. As a result, after 16 hours the refrigerator only got down to the upper 40s. We got to the first campground, turned on the A/C and as the rig cooled, so did the refrigerator. Overnight it got to its normal operating range of 32-34 degrees.
My conclusion is that the refrigerator has a very hard time cooling when interior temps are in the 90s.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
We had issues with our 1350 our first year. Dealer fixed with added baffles and loud fans, but it works great now, no matter what!
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