Stabilize a 5th wheel

[vesteroid]

I am new to a fifth wheel and want to know about chocking or stabilizing the coach. In the past I have simply used chocks and leveling blocks under the tires on my TT and then put down the stableizers to get it right. This has worked OK depending on how much force I can put on the stablilizers.

On the 5th wheel I assumed with hydralic levelers I could simply get the coach side to side level (or close) with blocks and then simply use the hydralic ones to get her perfect (with varrying blocks under the rear ones since they are in unison).

is this correct?

and do I need one of those things under the hitch pin (tripod looking thing)?

 

[cookie]

I think the best way to stabilize your fifth wheel is to use good wheel chocks. Not the yellow plastic thhings. And everyone I have talked to really likes the JT type stabilizers.

Peace
Dave

 

[GOTTOYS]

I use set of BAL chocks between the wheels and a pair of BAL (similar to JT) stabilizers to the rear jacks. Not perfect but not bad at all. Most of the people that I have talked to about the front the front tripod type stabilizers aren't real happy with them. I don't want to try and fumble with one....Don

 

[rebootsemi]

I went a bought a set of the X Chocks for between the tires on each side and they work great. Seems to take out the little wiggle we used to get with just the chock blocks. Don't use a tri-pod under the front not needed. I have found that it makes a difference of how far out you have the front landing gear and rear jacks. Now I use 6 x 8 blocks on the ground to take up most of the space. The side to side play in the legs does not seem like much until you extend them out a bunch. Your hydraulic legs should not have this problem.

 

[TomSt]

I am new to the 5th wheel issue also. After my rear jacks bent I tried to have the warranty fix them. When I showed the dealer the pictures that were taken the dealer told me, in no uncertain terms, that I was at fault for using blocks under the jacks and that added an extra 'piviot point' which is what caused the failure. Plus the jacks are to stabilize not 'lift' the trailer. They bent-loudly-while we were sitting watching TV during the evening.

 

[vesteroid]

So I want to drive on leveling blocks for close level side to side, chock wheels with x chocks (I think I like this option best), use landing gear up front to get front side to side level, and all of trailer front to back level, then use blocks of varying heights under my rear stabilizers to get it both stable and left to right level?

That basically it?

 

[slmayor]

So I want to drive on leveling blocks for close level side to side, chock wheels with x chocks (I think I like this option best), use landing gear up front to get front side to side level, and all of trailer front to back level, then use blocks of varying heights under my rear stabilizers to get it both stable and left to right level?

That basically it?

NO.... At least if I'm reading your explanation right?
This was our routine... 1. Level side to side with the blocks under the wheels on the low side. 2. chock using x- chocks. 3.The front jacks should come down together and you will use them to either lift or drop the front end. On uneven ground, you will drop the inside legs releasing the pins and get them as close as possible to even, using a block under one side or the other. I prefer not using blocks under the front unless absolutely necessary as I have an irrational fear of falling off them. LOL 4. Once you have the trailer pretty level front to back, use the rear jacks to "snug up" the back end, not lift the whole rig.
Never try to level corner to corner using an individual jack. Think in pairs only. Both front, both rear, and your side to side is done only using the blocks under the tires, not the jacks.
Now. if you're like me, I got tired of the side to side leveling blocks and just installed the Rieco-Titan Ground Control system. Because it does have individual jack control, I still have to be extra careful about the pairs rule.

 

[mountain1]

I definately do not use blocks under the front jacks. I did it wrong one time and pushed the trailer off the blocks I had up front and when the trailer hit the ground I had the thickness of a piece of paper between the 5th wheel and my truck bed. One little bit more and I would have been paying to replace my truck bed. Should not have happen but it almost did. My newly installed JT stabilizers worked well this weekend. I wish I could afford the hydraulic ones. Get to see a demonstration this weekend.

 

[TravelTiger]

We really like our SteadyFast system VERY well made. Only slight wiggle remains when going up and down stairs. Front end is stable, don't even notice when someone gets out of bed to go to the restroom in the middle of the night! LOL!

 

[Bob&Patty]

Vesteroid, you have recieved lots of good answers. But I have a question. What HL product are you looking at or have now?? Does it have or will have the auto leveling hydrolic landing gear?? Makes a lot of difference on the question asked and the correct answers recieved. With this info it will be less confusing to you and us.

 

[KENNY COCHRAN]

Take a 2"x6" board about 12" long, paint it all around and bolt it to the front jacks of your 5th wheel. Leave them there forever. When you go to hook up and leave, when your rig starts moving, you don't have to worry about it falling off your loose boards, these boards slide and you don't have to worry about a thing. I did the same to the back scissor jacks and they work fine too.

 

[vesteroid]

Vesteroid, you have recieved lots of good answers. But I have a question. What HL product are you looking at or have now?? Does it have or will have the auto leveling hydrolic landing gear?? Makes a lot of difference on the question asked and the correct answers recieved. With this info it will be less confusing to you and us.

I have the 3055rl if I am not mistaken on the alpha portion.

I am not interested in buying any new system besides perhaps chocks or something similar.

I am going with the x chocks or similar and using boards to level side to side I believe.

 

[jnbhobe]

Look at Roto-choks http://www.rotochok.com/orderinfo.htm they are the best made in my book.

 

[Bob&Patty]

This my 5cts (inflation)...I use 4X8" 12" long lumber under my front landing gear and the rear stabilizers.

Reason, I do not have to extend the gear as far. The less you have to drop the "feet" on the front...the less movment you have. Lower the front main tubes (bigger) farther down and then drop the feet.

The rear stabilizers will not stop any fore and aft movement. Also the wider you can keep them when lowering them ..the better they will stop "some" side to side movement. The next time you lower them..watch as they come down. They come down in a semi-circle....narrower at the top and narrower at the bottom. Block them at the widest place. They will take up some out of level on there own, but, I will add extra blocks if it's too much. The JT type stabilizers will stop a lot of fore and aft movement in the rear.

If you install a set of JT stabilizers or something similar front and rear, that will stop a lot of movement. It sure did on my BH.

Roto-chalks or similar will stop even more. The neatest thing I have seen to stop alot of suspension movement, was a set of manual scissor jacks installed in front of the wheels. The thing you have to do is measure between the tires as not all Roto-chalk type stabilizers will fit.