Water Filtration
- Thread starter letourno
- Start date
Many people use a simple inline water filter and replace that once a month or so.
Others use whole-house style canister filters. Some mount them in the UDC.
Some use a 2-stage filtration system that is basically 2 whole-house canisters with a sediment filter in the first stage and a charcoal filter in the second stage.
Finally, some will use a water softener in addition to filtration. Typically, the softener will be added after the filters.
Jim
Others use whole-house style canister filters. Some mount them in the UDC.
Some use a 2-stage filtration system that is basically 2 whole-house canisters with a sediment filter in the first stage and a charcoal filter in the second stage.
Finally, some will use a water softener in addition to filtration. Typically, the softener will be added after the filters.
Jim
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
My filter and regulator system are contained in a large tote that gets placed under the UDC. I use a sediment filter, followed by a carbon filter, with the regulator on the output side of the system. When the sediment filter starts to discolor, I change it. So far, on our seasonal site, the sediment filter lasts half of the summer before it starts to get an orange tint (iron) to it from the well water. The photo is an earlier version, with the regulator on the input side. I moved it to the output side after finding the filter screen inside it was getting clogged.
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2010augusta
Well-known member
We just use a small filter on the ice-maker/water dispenser line. water here in WA is tasty.
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
Hello Robert, We have the same setup as JohnDar. Sediment, Charcoal and regulator combined in a tote. I use brass qucik connect fittings on everything. With the quick connects, it allows me to remove the regulator if it isn't needed.
By the way. Welcome to the Forum! I see our names are the same although Letourneau may be more common in Canada.
By the way. Welcome to the Forum! I see our names are the same although Letourneau may be more common in Canada.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Just to be honest, it's not truly a "JohnDar" designed system. I adapted it from photos of someone else's system that had their filters sitting in an open milk crate, without a regulator attached. Since real milk crates are hard to come by, using the large tote was the next best thing. Actually, it keeps everything clean, protected from bugs/rain/mud splash, and serves to store my drinking water hoses and accessories.
porthole
Retired
While in Hatteras with the wonderful water they had, friends gave us a Reverse Osmosis system.
Never got it to work right without leaking. Eventually took the storage tank and membrane out of the system and now just use the filtering under the sink.
Might be overkill with 1 sediment, 2 charcoal and a finishing filter - but the price was right.
Never got it to work right without leaking. Eventually took the storage tank and membrane out of the system and now just use the filtering under the sink.
Might be overkill with 1 sediment, 2 charcoal and a finishing filter - but the price was right.
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TXBobcat
Fulltime
I had a water filter in a SOB and the canister cracked and flooded the basement. I removed the filter and went to two outside and still use it. Here is what I use now.
I went to Lowes and got two Westinghouse canisters and coupled them together. I use quick disconnects also from Lowes on all connections except the one in the UDC, where I use a 90* quick disconnect (scroll down near bottom) from the RV Water Filter store.
I use a Watts Brass Model N55BG Adjustable Regulator, 1.5" diameter 0-160 gauge, 6-9 gpm I got from the RV Water Filter Store. Right now I am going from the shore water to the regulator to the water filters and then to the UDC. I am getting some calcium build on the regulator so I may relocate it behind the filters.
I use a set of non kink water hoses from the RV Water Filter Store. I have a 5ft from the UDC to the water filters, a 36ft from the water filters to the a Y valve attached to the regulator, a 5ft from the regulator to the shore water. The reason for the 36ft is that it seems that some shore water faucets are just out of the reach of the standard 25ft hose so you need to use two. 36ft works great. I have not had to add a hose since I bought the 36ft.
The reason for the 5ft hoses is because I found that some faucets are underground or up high on a pole. Hard to connect the regulator to these shore water faucets. I lay my regulator on a 2x6x18 board to keep it off the ground.
BC
I went to Lowes and got two Westinghouse canisters and coupled them together. I use quick disconnects also from Lowes on all connections except the one in the UDC, where I use a 90* quick disconnect (scroll down near bottom) from the RV Water Filter store.
I use a Watts Brass Model N55BG Adjustable Regulator, 1.5" diameter 0-160 gauge, 6-9 gpm I got from the RV Water Filter Store. Right now I am going from the shore water to the regulator to the water filters and then to the UDC. I am getting some calcium build on the regulator so I may relocate it behind the filters.
I use a set of non kink water hoses from the RV Water Filter Store. I have a 5ft from the UDC to the water filters, a 36ft from the water filters to the a Y valve attached to the regulator, a 5ft from the regulator to the shore water. The reason for the 36ft is that it seems that some shore water faucets are just out of the reach of the standard 25ft hose so you need to use two. 36ft works great. I have not had to add a hose since I bought the 36ft.
The reason for the 5ft hoses is because I found that some faucets are underground or up high on a pole. Hard to connect the regulator to these shore water faucets. I lay my regulator on a 2x6x18 board to keep it off the ground.
BC
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letourno
Quebec Chapter Leader-retired
Thanks to all! This is my first experience with the Owners Forum, I'm impressed! I like the "Johndar" approach and will most likely use that (Yes, Ray, I will also use the quick connects and call this the Johndar-Letourneau system....) My new 3585 has just arrived at the dealer, all I need is the new 2011 Ford F-350 to pull it. Can't wait to meet the community...
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Way cool! I'll finally have my name on something besides a post office poster.
We just switched to the 2-stage system form a single filter. This has made a significant difference in our water. DW in the past had to clean the coffee pot of sediment/hard water weekly if not more often. Since the switch to the 2-stage system(about 2 months ago) she hasn't had to clean the pot. Much happier.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Bill, I got everything from the RV Water Filter Store: http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/index.htm
My system consists of their dual canister set, one clear (sediment filter) and one opaque white (protects carbon filter from UV). The sediment filter is a RV-SED1 1 micron filter that comes in a 2-pack. The carbon filter is a F1Pb 0.5 micron filter for metals, cysts, and lead. Both are rated to flow 3 - 4 gpm. The pressure regulator is the Watts N55BG, adjustable and rated to flow 6 - 9 gpm. When constructing my system, I looked for the smallest filtration size (microns) and the largest flow rates (gpm). They do vary amongst the filters. The regulator has the highest flow and comes preset to 50 psi, which is safe for RV's.
The system I have is not initially cheap to construct, running about $170. But filter replacement drops to about $30 for the summer season since I only use a single carbon filter and two of the sediment filters over the course of the summer.
All water going into my rig currently passes through the filters and regulator. I may modify my system with a filter bypass (still regulated, though) for the black tank flush, but it's not a priority.
My system consists of their dual canister set, one clear (sediment filter) and one opaque white (protects carbon filter from UV). The sediment filter is a RV-SED1 1 micron filter that comes in a 2-pack. The carbon filter is a F1Pb 0.5 micron filter for metals, cysts, and lead. Both are rated to flow 3 - 4 gpm. The pressure regulator is the Watts N55BG, adjustable and rated to flow 6 - 9 gpm. When constructing my system, I looked for the smallest filtration size (microns) and the largest flow rates (gpm). They do vary amongst the filters. The regulator has the highest flow and comes preset to 50 psi, which is safe for RV's.
The system I have is not initially cheap to construct, running about $170. But filter replacement drops to about $30 for the summer season since I only use a single carbon filter and two of the sediment filters over the course of the summer.
All water going into my rig currently passes through the filters and regulator. I may modify my system with a filter bypass (still regulated, though) for the black tank flush, but it's not a priority.
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