Water heater not heating water water, but comes on

[Kblock108]

This past trip I tried to use the water heater and no go. I did all the reset procedures and nothing, I turned the electric switch off (inside the coach) that makes it run off of electric and nothing. I kept it off all night, re started it and now on gas (electric switch inside off) the heater heats up but the water is only Luke warm. It's a 2011, I'm second owner. When I bought it the water heater was in the on position and I never touched it. Any help?


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[Westwind]

I had the outside switch on our Suburban HW Heater go and the ground was warm in Florida and the water was luke warm until I tried to shower, then it was darn cold.
Once the switch was replaced we were ok, could be the element also.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Kblock108,

Lukewarm water can be due to the hot and cold mixing at the outside shower. Make sure the knobs are off. Also make sure your winterization bypass valves are not partially in bypass mode.

If those things are ok, you might get some help from our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide.

 

[Snow]

I had the same problem ,I found out the white wire came out of the wire nut on the side of the hot water tank inside of the j-box you might check there , it would heat a little with gas but got hotter with 110 v if that makes since ? ⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️

 

[Kblock108]

Thanks guys, I will start checking

 

[Mizmary]

Definitely check the bypass. We have had that problem before.

 

[dalspot]

We had the same thing happen to us on the way to Goshen last year. Was washing dishes, and noticed I had REALLY hot water. Next day, NO hot water on electric. Turned out the upper limit switch had gone bad. Luckily we were able to pick one up from the plant while in Goshen and fix it . There is a H2O heater section in the HUG area that should help you out.

 

[Kblock108]

I pulled out the element and the copper lines were split and loaded with calcium. Gonna replace that and the anode, I'll see what happens

 

[Kblock108]

A little water heater help

I went ahead and replaced the elect and anode in my 2011 heartland after the heater stopped working in a trip. The element piping was split in 2 areas and the anode was in horrible shape. I bought it used and this was the first time I had replaced it since buying it in 07/13. I checked the element and I have power there. I checked the thermostat and Eco and I have power there. I checked here by putting my meter prods on the tabs. Where I don't have power is to the unit shown below. I pulled off all the quick connects and nothing. Thanks IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/a6e3u5az.jpg[/IMG]

 

[danemayer]

If you have power at the heating element, measured to frame ground, the element should be heating, unless the element is defective or the neutral line is open. Did you follow the diagnostic steps on pages 8 and 9 of the Troubleshooting Guide linked in post #3?

 

[wdk450]

Re: A little water heater help

I went ahead and replaced the elect and anode in my 2011 heartland after the heater stopped working in a trip. The element piping was split in 2 areas and the anode was in horrible shape. I bought it used and this was the first time I had replaced it since buying it in 07/13. I checked the element and I have power there. I checked the thermostat and Eco and I have power there. I checked here by putting my meter prods on the tabs. Where I don't have power is to the unit shown below. I pulled off all the quick connects and nothing. Thanks IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/a6e3u5az.jpg[/IMG]
View attachment 29253

I believe we are looking at a gas solenoid valve. This would only be energized (by 12 volts DC) when attempting to heat water with gas power (the little switch with a LED next to it on the tank monitor panel). There is a logic circuit board that turns on the pilot flame gas, makes a spark to ignite the gas, senses when a pilot flame is present, and turns on the main water heating gas to heat the water. That's why you see 2 solenoid valves here - 1 for pilot, 1 for main burner.

 

[Kblock108]

I am back...I have tried the troubleshoot guide and I can't seem to nail down the issue. I tested these connectors

and when I put each tester of my meter on each side I get power. I also get power to the element. Here is where I think my issue maybe...when I tested the pressure release valve, some water sprayed out of course (just a little). When I flipped the toggle switch to on (the switch was wet) it shocked me, which leads me to think I have a short...also, I turned my cook top on and the gas is working, I can't get the gas or electric to kick on. Any thoughts?

 

[123camper]

There is no pilot light. This unit has electronic ignition.


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[danemayer]

Kblock108,

Did you check the outside shower faucets and bypass controls to make sure you're not inadvertently mixing the hot and cold water?

Also, from how you describe your voltage testing, I'm not sure what you're doing. When checking voltage, you want to have your RED probe on the item being tested, and the BLACK probe on ground. If you put the probes on each side of the thing being tested, and read 110V, it means there's an open between the 2 points being measured.

 

[Kblock108]

Alright I'm learning more and more...I pulled the on off switch out to make sure it was good and now my tester does not light up at all. While doing my tests, I inadvertently touched the gas line and it shocked me...

 

[wdk450]

Kblock108:
If you disconnect the wires on the thermostats and take a continuity (ohms) reading from where the wires were connected, you should have a 0 ohms reading between the terminals. These are 2 thermostats in series electrical connection in each thermostat set. 1 set is for propane operation (12 volts DC controlling the propane operation) and 1 set is for 110 volts AC operation. Each set of thermostats has a lower temperature cutoff thermostat for regular water temperature regulation and a higher temperature thermostat for safety backup to prevent overheating the water heater. These thermostats normally conduct electricity, but go open when their temperature setting is reached.
I would suspect that you might have blown the AC breaker or the DC fuse from your last post about your tester no longer lighting up.

The AC diagram is on page 5, and the DC diagram is on page 4 of this manual: http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ban/SW10-12-16_DSI_Water_Heater_Surburban.pdf

 

[cookie]

While doing my tests, I inadvertently touched the gas line and it shocked me...

That's not a good thing.
Were you touching anything else when that happened?
If not, you may have what is called a "hot skin".
Check it out. HOT SKIN.

Peace
Dave

 

[wdk450]

That's not a good thing.
Were you touching anything else when that happened?
If not, you may have what is called a "hot skin".
Check it out. HOT SKIN.

Peace
Dave

Dave:
You may have found the root of the 110 v AC heating problem. The main cause of "Hot Skin" is a compromised outer sheath on the electric water heating element. Such an element is probably also not functional as a heat source besides being an electrical leakage source. All you have to add is a better path to ground than the shore power wiring provides (i.e. your body, with a poor trailer shore power ground), and you get a shock.

 

[Kblock108]

I did check the shower and all is good there, my fuses are all good too..

 

[Kblock108]

Anyone know someone in so cal that can get this fixed!?


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