Recent content by Prairiedog

Re: NO HOT WATER - Checked all threads and guides -- can't figure this one out! Thanks everyone -- found a check valve (the wrong fitting, but a check valve nonetheless) at a local parts store that allowed me to examine how it works. So, yes -- its the check valve. The plastic stopper in mine...

Re: NO HOT WATER - Checked all threads and guides -- can't figure this one out! Ok, looks like I have a brass check valve with the plastic piece inside of it. Unscrewed the 90 degree fitting and got that little plastic piece out (it fell out with a little bit of water pressure). Screwed the...

Re: NO HOT WATER - Checked all threads and guides -- can't figure this one out! The hot water heater had been off for a week, so after a few hours of my switching it on...when I opened the pressure relief valve, it was very hot. So, on that note... It seemed like that part was working. Is...

Hi all, To begin -- this is a Suburban water heater issue on a 2014 Heartland Bighorn 3610 Just came back from vacation. Had the hot water off at the switch, as I normally do when I leave for an extended period. Came back (didn't run the faucets) and turned on both the 120v and 12v heater...

Re: Norcold refrfegerator 1210 not cooling trholthus, Next time this happens, before you cycle the unit, run (or check) your diagnostics and compare with the user manual -- typically, if there's a fault in there...that's where it will show up. If its an ammonia clog, it won't show and you're...

Hi All, I've been fighting with this fridge for almost 3 years now. I've been able to get around the Ammonia clogs and such, but this one is persistent. Diagnostic Screen 8 - AC Power to AC Heater. I seem to lose that connection/capability when the fridge goes into the defrost cycle (or...

As the title suggests, I have a Norcold 1210 and I'm coming up with the following fault code (Diagnostic Screen 4) "AC mode selected but not available". I've had other issues with this fridge, but this is a new one on me. I'm not electrically handy AT ALL. Certainly don't want to kill myself...

Jim, not sure what that means. There's power to the thermostat, power to everything else in the rig. What would be the cure for changing that? I'm on 50amp and have been for quite a while. Nothing is tripped and I've flipped the 50amp breaker on and off. What else is there. Also, I took...

Front (Bedroom) A/C just quit. Is only a month and a half old (replaced one that lost its cooling liquid) and just came back home from work and its not working at all. 1) No breakers are flipped, although I flipped them all back and forth, and cut the main power and turned it back on...

Thanks everyone -- have the pressure holding right now on the Valterra. Once I get the Watts clean, I'll try that and report back. Great advice from everyone, as usual. This forum is tremendous! My thanks, Rob

***UPDATE*** Pressure isn't going up as high as it did yesterday with the Valterra, but I am just trying to get static pressure stability. Does anyone know if there is anything INSIDE the rig that would cause static pressure instability ON THE HIGH SIDE? I could understand how a leak could...

Jeff, I'm in Alabama, but it was 65 degrees when I checked. Coolest day we've had in a while. Can't figure this out!

I checked my Watts 263A Regulator today, which is normally set at 60, and it was at 100psi. I tried to adjust it and I couldn't get the pressure to reduce statically. Running pressure was fine and I could get that in the window, and then when I closed all the faucets -- the psi went back to...

+2 -- Dan, you assistance has been and remains an invaluable asset in this endeavor. Thank you so much for all you do! //Rob

Just a quick update. Once the fresh water tank was completely drained, I re-attached the hose and ran it back on CITY (with the fresh water drain closed). So far (after a day), I don't believe the water is flowing back into the fresh water tank. It seems as though once the tank was drained...