Recent content by sandpirate

Doug, My decals have cracked as well, might want to check under the cracks to see if the gel coat is also damaged like I discovered mine was.

I have several decals cracking on my 2010 Cyclone, and when I began removing them I could see that the gel coat underneath is cracked in the same formation. Actually it looks as if the gel coat has shrank with the decals and left valleys where the decals have separated. I have had and seen...

In these rv's we are concerned about keeping the heat in the conditioned space since we aren't dealing with a 6500cfm motor in these furnaces. A little positive pressure inside will not create this backlash of cold air being sucked back into the coach if it's properly sealed from the outside...

I have followed all of the supply lines from the furnace and have not seen any that dump into the belly of the coach. To check that out I will close off most of the interior furnace supply vents and turn on the furnace and climb under the trailer and put my hand by one of the many openings in...

I spent the better part of the evening cutting styrofoam sheets up to cover the holes leading to the belly of the carriage to keep my furnace from sucking the air from down there and outside. I originally thought that the sheeting under the coach might be pretty well sealed; until I crawled...

The return air is air that is supposed to be coming from the conditioned space to be heated, not from the outside(there are plenty of vents in the trailer for fresh air intakes). Furnace supply air is heated air that is to feed the coditioned space and keep it warm. If it was the intention of...

Cyclone 2812

I recently discovered that my furnace was returning air from the underbelly of my coach along with the air inside my coach (not a good thing when you are trying to keep the coach warm). I discovered the problem when I was searching for my water pump that quit performing on our recent trip. Due...

I had the tanks about 75% full and ran the water after tightening all of the hose clamps and everything looked dry. After seeing the routing of the fill tube I see why I have to fill the tanks slowly to keep the water spitting back out at me.

Bad angle of the photo, there is a cross brace in the middle. I would have thought that it would be better to have the water tanks mounted a little more securely; just my 2 cents...

When I pulled out of my driveway after filling my freshwater tanks I saw waves of water gushing out from underneath my Cyclone 2812 and into the street. When I stopped I could hear the water sloshing around underneath the trailer. I poked a hole in the front and rear of the underbelly material...

I paid about $250 for the install because my 97' has a rear tank and I heard it was a real bear to install. The installer told me that some of the new trucks have the bolts already installed for the hitch/rails...your truck might be one of those that will be an easy install.

My Cyclone 2812 has a GVWR of 14K, so we should never get within 1,000lbs. of the max hitch weight, thanks for the heads up!

I just switched from a bumper tow to 5er toyhauler and I found this 15K 5th Wheel Hitch with rails, hardware, Woodalls RV Owners handbook, Lube Plate, and includes shipping, all for $333.33 http://tweetys.com/reese-pro-hitch.aspx This is the best price I could find for a 15K hitch anywhere...

That's the one I'ved always used, you should be able to get it in the store for no more than $25.