After winterizing draining the pink stuff

Bones

Well-known member
After you have winterized your unit with the pink stuff has anyone ever then drained the pink stuff back out of the lines? Lest say I want to continue working on the camper over the winter but I don't want the pink stuff all over while I'm working. Has anyone ever drained the pink stuff back out and just left the lines like that. Does the pink stuff have to stay in the lines now? Can you just blow the pink stuff out of the lines with compressed air now that you have evacuated all of the water from the system?
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
If you want to get it out you could just let it drain out (might as well save it in a pail or the gallon jugs it came in so you can use it again).

Chances are that once you've had the pink stuff in there, your system will be water free and still winterized!

Even if you drain it all out.

Just remember to flush out the pipes before you go out camping again!
 

Bones

Well-known member
If you want to get it out you could just let it drain out (might as well save it in a pail or the gallon jugs it came in so you can use it again).

Chances are that once you've had the pink stuff in there, your system will be water free and still winterized!

Even if you drain it all out.

Just remember to flush out the pipes before you go out camping again!

That's is what I am thinking. The idea of adding it is to get all of the water out of the lines so the water does not freeze and expand. Now that I have done that I don't think there is any reason to keep the antifreeze in the line.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
That's is what I am thinking. The idea of adding it is to get all of the water out of the lines so the water does not freeze and expand. Now that I have done that I don't think there is any reason to keep the antifreeze in the line.

Then I think you should have just blown out the lines with compressed air. I've done this method for years. No reason to spend $$$ on antifreeze, when I can remove all the water with air.

Now..the drains are a different story...every drain gets antifreeze poured into the p-trap, as you want that barrier to stop bad smells from come back up. :)
 

Bones

Well-known member
Then I think you should have just blown out the lines with compressed air. I've done this method for years. No reason to spend $$$ on antifreeze, when I can remove all the water with air.

Now..the drains are a different story...every drain gets antifreeze poured into the p-trap, as you want that barrier to stop bad smells from come back up. :)

I may try that method next year and see how it goes. I did pour pink stuff down the drains and into the tanks too. My pink stuff cost me less than 10 bucks so not too harsh on the wallet.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
I run the antifreeze to make sure all low points in the lines are covered, the pump in the washer is protected, and the main water pump is protected.


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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Then I think you should have just blown out the lines with compressed air. I've done this method for years. No reason to spend $$$ on antifreeze, when I can remove all the water with air.

Now..the drains are a different story...every drain gets antifreeze poured into the p-trap, as you want that barrier to stop bad smells from come back up. :)

I also blew out the water lines with my air compressor . . .

Take it from someone who took it in the rear end from an extendend warranty company . . .

For under $10 bucks . . . the insurance is worth every penny!
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
I also blew out the water lines with my air compressor . . .

Take it from someone who took it in the rear end from an extendend warranty company . . .

For under $10 bucks . . . the insurance is worth every penny!
Are you saying blowing out the lines didn't work??

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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Are you saying blowing out the lines didn't work??

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Nope!

I just like the security factor (not too mention the manufacturer warranty refusal factor) of having the pink stuff in the water lines.

I've already gotten bitten by the "you didn't do this and that" factor (at the tune of close to $4000) by the manufacturer . . .

So I'd rather be safe than sorry!

What is $12 . . . vs $4000?
 

GregP

Well-known member
I blew out all the lines, but then added the RV anti-freeze after to make sure that I had run it thru the pump. I might be wrong, but I wasn't sure that blowing out the lines would clear the pump of water. Besides...I had already bought the anti-freeze and didn't feel like storing it.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I blew out all the lines, but then added the RV anti-freeze after to make sure that I had run it thru the pump. I might be wrong, but I wasn't sure that blowing out the lines would clear the pump of water. Besides...I had already bought the anti-freeze and didn't feel like storing it.
Good call. Blowing out the lines will not clear the pump strainer, or the pump internal mechanism, both of which can freeze.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Good call. Blowing out the lines will not clear the pump strainer, or the pump internal mechanism, both of which can freeze.

Dan is correct because as I posted a couple of weeks ago when performing a plumbing mode I still had water in 2 lines I cut plus in the pump when I disconnected the line from the input side of the pump. This was after I had used my air compressor to vacate the lines of water.
We have to use the RV antifreeze here in the northeast otherwise we'd be replacing fittings regularly.


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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If you have a washing machine and store your rig in an area where temps get below freezing for several days, you have to run AF into it while it's running. To not do this in order to save a few pennies will definitely bite you in the keister. DAMHIKT.
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Water will increase in size as it freezes around 4 degrees Celsius.

On average, it will increase around 8-10% in size as it form a network of hydrogen bonds, where each hydrogen atom is in a line between two oxygen atoms.

So... you don't have to get ALL the water out to avoid freezing damage.
 

Dennyha

Well-known member
If you have a washing machine and store your rig in an area where temps get below freezing for several days, you have to run AF into it while it's running. To not do this in order to save a few pennies will definitely bite you in the keister. DAMHIKT.
I just performed the winterization on our Splendide combo washer. I followed the instructions in the manual,which called for me to set the wash temp to "HOT", set it on cycle 3, and turn ON until I saw AF in the drum, and it started spinning. Then I set it to SPIN, and left it drain out. After I finished the job, I questioned if this flushed the water out of the COLD supply line. That is, with the machine set to HOT, does the water feed from both the HOT and COLD lines, or just the HOT line. I can't help but worry that I didn't flush the COLD water supply, but I did follow the machine instructions. The camper is now in indoor storage with no access to shore power, and the generator has been winterized. Does anybody have any insight that will help me sleep better at night?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I just performed the winterization on our Splendide combo washer. I followed the instructions in the manual,which called for me to set the wash temp to "HOT", set it on cycle 3, and turn ON until I saw AF in the drum, and it started spinning. Then I set it to SPIN, and left it drain out. After I finished the job, I questioned if this flushed the water out of the COLD supply line. That is, with the machine set to HOT, does the water feed from both the HOT and COLD lines, or just the HOT line. I can't help but worry that I didn't flush the COLD water supply, but I did follow the machine instructions. The camper is now in indoor storage with no access to shore power, and the generator has been winterized. Does anybody have any insight that will help me sleep better at night?

Hi Dennyha,

I can't say with certainty what path the antifreeze takes when the wash cycle is set to HOT, but I would expect that there will still be water in the cold water line, through the cold faucet, and in the cold water hose up to the control valve that responds to the temperature setting.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I just performed the winterization on our Splendide combo washer. I followed the instructions in the manual,which called for me to set the wash temp to "HOT", set it on cycle 3, and turn ON until I saw AF in the drum, and it started spinning.
My Splendide wash machine winterizing instructions state to set the temp at warm.
I think you would be wise to run a cycle on cold.

Peace
Dave
 

Dennyha

Well-known member
Optional Winterization Instructions

If you’re currently pumping antifreeze through your fresh water system, you can follow these steps to winterize your washer-dryer:
1. With machine power OFF, turn WASH TEMP knob to ‘HOT’;
2. Advance Cycle Selector to position ‘3’;
3. Press ON/OFF button, then press START. Let machine fill until the drum turns (could take up to 1 to 2 minutes);
4. Press ON/OFF button to turn power OFF;
5. Advance Cycle Selector to ‘Spin’;
6. Press ON/OFF button, then press START.
7. After letting antifreeze drain completely from drum, press the ON/OFF button to turn power OFF. FINISHED. TO USE YOUR WASHER-DRYER AGAIN, SEE INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE



These are the instructions I followed from our Splendide manual. Why do I feel so unsure after following the instructions.
 
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