Anderson Ultimate Fifth Wheel Hitch

[Chippendale]

I have to say that I am very intrigued about this hitch. but my current set up won't allow it's use and the DW would put me in a very deep hole if I tried to buy a new one.

What is your “present setup”? In December of 2014, I purchased an early version of the Andersen “rail mount” hitch and placed it on the existing rails in my 2007 Classic Chevy. I am now using it in my present F350 to tow my 3300ML Gateway. Point out to DW every time you start up or stop and the trailer jerks (chucks), that with an Andersen hitch, that won’t happen. Towing with an Andersen is all the difference in the world without spending the “big bucks”.

 

[Bones]

What is your “present setup”? In December of 2014, I purchased an early version of the Andersen “rail mount” hitch and placed it on the existing rails in my 2007 Classic Chevy. I am now using it in my present F350 to tow my 3300ML Gateway. Point out to DW every time you start up or stop and the trailer jerks (chucks), that with an Andersen hitch, that won’t happen. Towing with an Andersen is all the difference in the world without spending the “big bucks”.

I have a 20k reese hitch with the puck set up. The pin box is a Reese airborne Sidewinder. If I was to change to the Anderson, I would need the ball for the ram goose, the Anderson hitch and then a new pin box. All of that would get very expensive.

 

[Rollin_Free]

I have to say that I am very intrigued about this hitch. but my current set up won't allow it's use and the DW would put me in a very deep hole if I tried to buy a new one.

There's always time later. Just so you have more info to digest and know there is a better mouse trap there's a new kid on the block competing with Anderson.

http://www.pullrite.com/products/is...ustry-standard-rails/isr-series-superlite-20k

While I know Pullrite is a great company and the hitch looks great I still prefer the Anderson. The specs are a little less but it is still based on the same principle. Enjoy!!!

 

[JWalker]

There's always time later. Just so you have more info to digest and know there is a better mouse trap there's a new kid on the block competing with Anderson.

http://www.pullrite.com/products/is...ustry-standard-rails/isr-series-superlite-20k

While I know Pullrite is a great company and the hitch looks great I still prefer the Anderson. The specs are a little less but it is still based on the same principle. Enjoy!!!

Interesting.....

 

[Bones]

There's always time later. Just so you have more info to digest and know there is a better mouse trap there's a new kid on the block competing with Anderson.

http://www.pullrite.com/products/is...ustry-standard-rails/isr-series-superlite-20k

While I know Pullrite is a great company and the hitch looks great I still prefer the Anderson. The specs are a little less but it is still based on the same principle. Enjoy!!!

You know I just saw that advertisement the other day

 

[Rollin_Free]

There's always time later. Just so you have more info to digest and know there is a better mouse trap there's a new kid on the block competing with Anderson.

http://www.pullrite.com/products/is...ustry-standard-rails/isr-series-superlite-20k

While I know Pullrite is a great company and the hitch looks great I still prefer the Anderson. The specs are a little less but it is still based on the same principle. Enjoy!!!

http://www.pullrite.com/sites/default/files/2400 Owners Manual `2016.4.16 revA1.pdf

The two things I don't really like is the cup in the truck would have a tendency to attract debris and from what I can see the only way to get it out is to remove the cup assembly and flush it out thourghly. Even though that's really not that hard to do it is something you have to watch. The second issue is the ball isn't lined with a self lubricant cup so you always have to lubricant before you tow which is shown in the manual. This is also not hard to do but is just another step that isn't required with the Anderson. I believe if Pullrite adds a lubricated cup assembly it would help this model. If they continue with development and get a model that uses the reverse ball in the bed they may start to be more appealing to me and others of course.

 

[Doublegranch]

The pullrite also requires a rail system which adds to the expense vs Anderson hitch.
May not be a big deal if your currently have a system in place but if going to a fifth wheel hitch
for the first time it does increase your out lay.

I still think Anderson has the better product.

 

[Rollin_Free]

The pullrite also requires a rail system which adds to the expense vs Anderson hitch.
May not be a big deal if your currently have a system in place but if going to a fifth wheel hitch
for the first time it does increase your out lay.

I still think Anderson has the better product.

Totally agree at this point. My opinion may change as competion increases with new similar products but this design is definitely going change the market.

 

[Chippendale]

I have a 20k reese hitch with the puck set up. The pin box is a Reese airborne Sidewinder. If I was to change to the Anderson, I would need the ball for the ram goose, the Anderson hitch and then a new pin box. All of that would get very expensive.

I have the Ford puck set up and use a Reese 30156 Rail Kit Mounting Adaptor, I think it will also fit in the Ram puck system. I just set my existing Andersen Hitch in the Reese rail adaptor. The Andersen hitch also comes with an adaptor that attaches on to your pin with two bolts, and I think it would attach to the pin on your Sidewinder. The Andersen owner tows a big toy hauler with a MorRide pin box on it. They have improved the Andersen hitches a lot since I got mine. It wouldn’t hurt to call Andersen customer sales and tell them what you have, the Ram puck system and the Sidewinder pin box, and see what hitch they suggest to use with what you already have. They may have a hitch now that sets down into the pucks on Rams and Fords, I don’t know. A lot of RV suppliers are starting to carry them, so you can shop around for the best price, Amazon, Tweety’s, Camping World etc.

 

[SNOKING]

I have the Ford puck set up and use a Reese 30156 Rail Kit Mounting Adaptor, I think it will also fit in the Ram puck system. I just set my existing Andersen Hitch in the Reese rail adaptor. The Andersen hitch also comes with an adaptor that attaches on to your pin with two bolts, and I think it would attach to the pin on your Sidewinder. The Andersen owner tows a big toy hauler with a MorRide pin box on it. They have improved the Andersen hitches a lot since I got mine. It wouldn’t hurt to call Andersen customer sales and tell them what you have, the Ram puck system and the Sidewinder pin box, and see what hitch they suggest to use with what you already have. They may have a hitch now that sets down into the pucks on Rams and Fords, I don’t know. A lot of RV suppliers are starting to carry them, so you can shop around for the best price, Amazon, Tweety’s, Camping World etc.

Demco makes a much better picture frame for the RAM puck system than the Reese/factory one.

RAM and Ford Pucks are in different patterns BTW. Even though rail spacing has become standard across most hitches, the big three have their own individual puck spacing.

Here is a picture of my B&W on the Demco 6099 picture frame. I can release the pucks without unpinning the hitch. With the Reese picture frame you can not do that, and the arms are to long. I lift the whole 270 lb unit as one piece out with a HF 880 lb electric hoist. Chris

 

[Rollin_Free]

I have a 20k reese hitch with the puck set up. The pin box is a Reese airborne Sidewinder. If I was to change to the Anderson, I would need the ball for the ram goose, the Anderson hitch and then a new pin box. All of that would get very expensive.

Just remember if you have one of the swing type hitches they must be locked to prevent swinging action to use the Anderson Hitch. Since the hitch isn't designed for the stresses the swinging type hitches place on the hitch frame there's no adapter available to use the swing hitch feature.

There is a limitation that the Anderson Hitch that hasn't been mentioned yet. Even though I'm not positive I'm pretty sure that since in some states you must have chains they consider this a gooseneck hitch. As you probably already know you cannot pull a trailer behind any gooseneck trailer. So putting two and two together I don't think it will be legal to pull a trailer behind your 5th wheel if you're using the Anderson (or similar) type hitches. This is not factual information however it only makes sense even though some laws are very hard to interpret I'm pretty sure you'd loss this one if questioned by an officer on the side of the road. This could become a bad day.

 

[Bones]

You are correct but I looked into locking my hitch earlier this year and I would have to clearance my bed rail covers as the hitch comes dangerously close to them when hitched up. I have not checked into that yet but it is on my list of things. I have the 8 foot bed now so I no longer need that set up. It is also making my turning radius very very long and wide.

To address another comment I purchased the reese puck hitch so I do not have the adapter plate. Here is a picture of it when the hitch was in storage this year.

 

[Roadventure]

Just a heads up to all. I towed my TH to a service shop using the hitch for the first time. Some nimrod at the shop used a ball on a forklift to move the rig and bent the entire front of the shroud because his ball height wasn't tall enough so the entire tongue weight was on that shroud vs the ball and coupler. I went to pick it up and pointed it out to the service manager. He looked at it and asked the guy on the forklift if he knew why that had happened. Needless to say they are buying a new shroud. Also this is a greaseless receiver. Whatever they were moving with was covered in grease and got all up in the ball receiver area. So to those who have these, or are thinking about getting one make sure that you are implicit in your instructions of how to move a rig with one of these! I told the coordinator what we had and asked if they had worked with them before. They are also an authorized dealer for Andersen, so never assume they know what they are doing especially if the lowest guy on the totem pole is moving the trailer. I'll post some photos of the damage later.

 

[Bones]

I think the lesson here might be to remove the adapter before servicing.

 

[Roadventure]

I think the lesson here might be to remove the adapter before servicing.

That would be less of a chore if I didn't have the adapter release handle attached under the nose cap with metal tap screws.

 

[Rollin_Free]

Demco makes a much better picture frame for the RAM puck system than the Reese/factory one.

RAM and Ford Pucks are in different patterns BTW. Even though rail spacing has become standard across most hitches, the big three have their own individual puck spacing.

Here is a picture of my B&W on the Demco 6099 picture frame. I can release the pucks without unpinning the hitch. With the Reese picture frame you can not do that, and the arms are to long. I lift the whole 270 lb unit as one piece out with a HF 880 lb electric

Hum didn't know this before.

- - - Updated - - -

Just a heads up to all. I towed my TH to a service shop using the hitch for the first time. Some nimrod at the shop used a ball on a forklift to move the rig and bent the entire front of the shroud because his ball height wasn't tall enough so the entire tongue weight was on that shroud vs the ball and coupler. I went to pick it up and pointed it out to the service manager. He looked at it and asked the guy on the forklift if he knew why that had happened. Needless to say they are buying a new shroud. Also this is a greaseless receiver. Whatever they were moving with was covered in grease and got all up in the ball receiver area. So to those who have these, or are thinking about getting one make sure that you are implicit in your instructions of how to move a rig with one of these! I told the coordinator what we had and asked if they had worked with them before. They are also an authorized dealer for Andersen, so never assume they know what they are doing especially if the lowest guy on the totem pole is moving the trailer. I'll post some photos of the damage later.

X2- Really makes you think about removing it when in for service might be an excellent idea. Undoubtly they could move it easily and safely with the king pin, right???

 

[SNOKING]

On other forums when the question is asked "what if a friend has to tow it if you truck breaks down" the answer is it only take a couple minutes to remove the adapter. There have been a few similar reports on RV.net. So why would anyone leave it on when leaving their trailer at a dealers "wrecking yard"?

Chris

 

[mlpeloquin]

@mlpeloquin - any experience, or reasoning for your warning? Context would be nice. I don't have anything under my hitch frame. just spray on bed liner.

X-Stream spray on bed liner is hard and not a problem. It goes on hot and becomes part of your truck. I have it and like it. There are at least two other spray on liners. One is hard like X-Stream and the other is like a gel. A rubber liner pad is not hard enough and can move around. Just picture your hitch as it moves back and fourth, left and right, with the pin weight because the liner under it gives and is not solid. And what happens if it cuts through? Is your hitch really connected safely?

 

[SNOKING]

X-Stream spray on bed liner is hard and not a problem. It goes on hot and becomes part of your truck. I have it and like it. There are at least two other spray on liners. One is hard like X-Stream and the other is like a gel. A rubber liner pad is not hard enough and can move around. Just picture your hitch as it moves back and fourth, left and right, with the pin weight because the liner under it gives and is not solid. And what happens if it cuts through? Is your hitch really connected safely?

I believe that it is more than that. Mount a Go-Pro on the side of you bed and watch the hitch rock back and forth as the bed floor flexes from the weight of the hitch/trailer being held up by sheet metal! Chris

 

[Roadventure]

Just a heads up to all. I towed my TH to a service shop using the hitch for the first time. Some nimrod at the shop used a ball on a forklift to move the rig and bent the entire front of the shroud because his ball height wasn't tall enough so the entire tongue weight was on that shroud vs the ball and coupler. I went to pick it up and pointed it out to the service manager. He looked at it and asked the guy on the forklift if he knew why that had happened. Needless to say they are buying a new shroud. Also this is a greaseless receiver. Whatever they were moving with was covered in grease and got all up in the ball receiver area. So to those who have these, or are thinking about getting one make sure that you are implicit in your instructions of how to move a rig with one of these! I told the coordinator what we had and asked if they had worked with them before. They are also an authorized dealer for Andersen, so never assume they know what they are doing especially if the lowest guy on the totem pole is moving the trailer. I'll post some photos of the damage later.

Pics as promised:

Also whatever they did put a nic in the coupler piston which should be in the fully closed position. When lowering my rig onto the ball the service manager could only get it halfway. I thought it was wrong and said something he demonstrated and insisted it was right. I towed it all the way home 30 miles or so with the retention pin only half in.

Note that the pull there was my first time pulling out rig or a rig this size for that matter. Pulling it home was only the second time. In between the very first use and my second pull it was mangled by service.