ATF: Cyclone - Freezing Conditions

xcop524

Member
I recently purchased the Cyclone CY 4000 and am currently working in North Dakota. I recently had an Everest fifth wheel and needed a toy hauler. I must say from what I have seen so far the Cyclone is much better built and designed than the Everest or other RV's I have owned previously.
The Everest froze up while in North Dakota and pretty much became useless when temperatures plummeted below zero. The Cyclone so far has done well down to 0 degrees with only one problem. The water supply to the kitchen sink froze. I have spent many winters in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and other locations were temperatures can be extreme. I have learned to take preventative measures when dealing with extreme conditions.
I have placed two heat lamps in the basement with heat directed towards water supply lines. I also have an electric heater that I have set currently to 50 degrees to assist the heat lamps. I have had no problems down to -25 with the water supply to the bathroom facilities. I placed a small amount of water into the fresh holding tank since the unit I purchased has the Yeti package and I didn't want the tank heater to burn through the fresh water tank. I have concrete blankets stuffed under the trailer to help protect the underbelly. The only problem I am experiencing with the water system within the RV is the kitchens water supply. It freezes rather easy and I would assume the flow of warm air from the on board heater doesn't reach the water lines adequately.
I noticed that the heater that I placed behind the wall in the basement needs to be turned down to the 50 degree setting or it keeps the thermostat inside the living room from activating the gas heater. I think it is because it is mounted on the wall directly above the basement. So I have had to refine my settings for the gas heater will kick on and off frequently enough to blow heat into the lower under belly.
I usually run my grey water tanks open but since the Yeti package heats all the tanks at the same time I an unable to control this presently. I have read where you have to keep some water in all the tanks to prevent damage from the heating pads. So the water system inside the Cyclone CY 4000 is pretty much concentrated in the wall behind the basement so it is easy to protect from the elements all except for the kitchens water supply. I do have a couple of Mr. Heaters (Propane) that K keep handy in case of power loss that I can quickly replace the heating systems with encase of failure of on-board heat. Power outages are covered by the on-board generator which the Cyclone is the first RV I have owned with the on-board generator.
What I need is pictures, drawings or prints of the underbelly of the CY 4000 for I can see how I can overcome the kitchen water supply problem. I also could see where breaking the holding tank heaters down into zones where one could control them individually would be more convenient. So id anyone could supply prints, drawings or pictures of the underbelly it would be greatly appreciated. The valves to the holding tanks also need additional protection as well from the elements.

EDIT
Just wanted to say thanks for the response from the people at Heartland they immediately sent me the information I was seeking so that I can start getting the water and sewer system on track. Thanks for the assistance.
 
Last edited:

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi xcop524,

We just arrived in Breckenridge, CO for an extended ski trip; our 4th in our Landmark. The heat sources in the basement will not get any hot air into the underbelly which is where the Pex lines to the kitchen are routed. You'll either have to add heat tape to the kitchen Pex lines or you'll have to build an enclosure under the rig and put one of your heaters underneath.

I've done both and last winter the heat tape kept my water running in the kitchen despite 3 nights in a row at -30F.

That said, late last season I added a foamboard enclosure under the rig. Just took a couple of 4x8 sheets of 3/4" foamboard from Lowes and a roll of duct tape. The enclosure starts at the frame on the off-door side and extends about 4 feet toward the doorside. It starts about 4 feet forward of the steps, which is where the drop frame starts, and continues a few feet to the rear of the drop frame. Tape the corners of the foamboard together with duct tape. Use duct tape to make a hinge and cut a door so you can put one of the heaters inside the enclosure. Put the heater on a board or other support so it doesn't get wet if water runs across the ground.

With a thermostatically controlled Pelonis ceramic disc heater, my underbelly was around 70 degrees last winter. This year I'm trying a 150W infrared heat lamp to see if electric usage is lower. Current temp in the underbelly is 49F. If necessary in extreme temps, I'll put the Pelonis back in.

The gate valves are also protected by this enclosure, but I do have heat tape on the valves just in case.

I'm dumping the gray tanks every 2nd day and the black tank weekly. Tank heating pads are on all the time and when I dump the tanks, I leave a little water in them because I have firsthand experience with damage to an empty tank.

You might want to take a look at our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide and also the Water Systems Guide.
 

xcop524

Member
Thanks for the information it is greatly appreciated. Just for information I have found some clear tape that is 2" wide that is rated down to -10 and it actually worked well.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Sanya,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and hopefully to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I don't think they have but the one package, but you might call the Cyclone area manager and make sure. Most folks do their own insulation to solve their problems or potential problems.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M
 

danemayer

Well-known member
in the near future I plan to get the toy hauler CY 4000. But I must use this in cold russian climate (+30 / -25).
I understood, what all the fifth wheel have problems with plums in cold weather.
Tell me please, has the producer additional packages for a cold climate to solve a problem with freezing of drainpipes or I should do it myself?
Hi Sanya,

Heartland offers the Yeti/Canadian Arctic Package which adds heating pads to the holding tanks and heat tape on the main water line (from the fresh tank), as well as some additional insulation. But if you expect temperatures to drop to -25(F), you'll need to do more to protect other parts of the water system. You might find our Water Systems Winter Usage Guide helpful.
 
I recently purchased the Cyclone CY 4000 and am currently working in North Dakota. I recently had an Everest fifth wheel and needed a toy hauler. I must say from what I have seen so far the Cyclone is much better built and designed than the Everest or other RV's I have owned previously.
The Everest froze up while in North Dakota and pretty much became useless when temperatures plummeted below zero. The Cyclone so far has done well down to 0 degrees with only one problem. The water supply to the kitchen sink froze. I have spent many winters in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and other locations were temperatures can be extreme. I have learned to take preventative measures when dealing with extreme conditions.
I have placed two heat lamps in the basement with heat directed towards water supply lines. I also have an electric heater that I have set currently to 50 degrees to assist the heat lamps. I have had no problems down to -25 with the water supply to the bathroom facilities. I placed a small amount of water into the fresh holding tank since the unit I purchased has the Yeti package and I didn't want the tank heater to burn through the fresh water tank. I have concrete blankets stuffed under the trailer to help protect the underbelly. The only problem I am experiencing with the water system within the RV is the kitchens water supply. It freezes rather easy and I would assume the flow of warm air from the on board heater doesn't reach the water lines adequately.
I noticed that the heater that I placed behind the wall in the basement needs to be turned down to the 50 degree setting or it keeps the thermostat inside the living room from activating the gas heater. I think it is because it is mounted on the wall directly above the basement. So I have had to refine my settings for the gas heater will kick on and off frequently enough to blow heat into the lower under belly.
I usually run my grey water tanks open but since the Yeti package heats all the tanks at the same time I an unable to control this presently. I have read where you have to keep some water in all the tanks to prevent damage from the heating pads. So the water system inside the Cyclone CY 4000 is pretty much concentrated in the wall behind the basement so it is easy to protect from the elements all except for the kitchens water supply. I do have a couple of Mr. Heaters (Propane) that K keep handy in case of power loss that I can quickly replace the heating systems with encase of failure of on-board heat. Power outages are covered by the on-board generator which the Cyclone is the first RV I have owned with the on-board generator.
What I need is pictures, drawings or prints of the underbelly of the CY 4000 for I can see how I can overcome the kitchen water supply problem. I also could see where breaking the holding tank heaters down into zones where one could control them individually would be more convenient. So id anyone could supply prints, drawings or pictures of the underbelly it would be greatly appreciated. The valves to the holding tanks also need additional protection as well from the elements.

EDIT
Just wanted to say thanks for the response from the people at Heartland they immediately sent me the information I was seeking so that I can start getting the water and sewer system on track. Thanks for the assistance.

I would also be interested in this information. I have a 2014 cy 4000 with dual pane windows and NO artic package. I am wondering at what temps will my toy hauler effectively stay functioning down to? Also would it be feasible for me to drop the underbelly and place 3/4" foam insulation boards (4'x8' from lowes) Inbetween the holding tanks and the underbelly lining??

Thanks!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I would also be interested in this information. I have a 2014 cy 4000 with dual pane windows and NO artic package. I am wondering at what temps will my toy hauler effectively stay functioning down to? Also would it be feasible for me to drop the underbelly and place 3/4" foam insulation boards (4'x8' from lowes) Inbetween the holding tanks and the underbelly lining??

Thanks!
Hi mike.rc.3d,

Before putting the miniskirting under our rig, I think the furnace was keeping the underbelly about 15-20 degrees above outside temps. That's with 1/2" foam board above the coroplast and an extension of the heat duct to provide better coverage throughout the underbelly. Without tank heaters I'd expect your tanks will be in trouble when temps get into the single digits.
 
Dan,

Im assuming the chloroplast is what I see when I lay under my trailer. The black material that covers up the underbelly? If that's the case I will definitely be dropping the underbelly to make that mod. I'm in Texas right now so although the tank heaters are on my list they are about in the middle rather than the top ( at least until we move). Thanks for the info and taking the time to educate me :)
 
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