Bad switch or something else?

[TravelTiger]

Experts, help me out. We had the living room light switch start acting funny on our trip, lights would delay coming on or not at all, then switch got hard to turn off, so we quit using them. Well, bought a replacement switch, and removed the panel to replace it and (see pic) discovered brown on the wire connectors and switch. DH replaced connectors and switch. (tab on switch broke during removal, it was not broken before).

Was this a bad switch or symptom of something else?

 

[cpoores]

switch

Sounds like a loose connection caused over current, too much load, and it overheated. I would have to see switch and ask more, but change would remedy this...

 

[SJH]

Re: switch

We had the same symptoms and the switch looked burned like yours. Replaced it and never had another problem!

 

[jnbhobe]

Looks like you had a loose connection or a bad switch that got hot, a new switch and connectors should fix your problem.

 

[porthole]

The crimp on wire connectors used on any trailer (not just Heartland) are not of the highest quality, nor are the crimpers used, and add to that the trialing of the people who use the crimpers.

Think about the guy who has to install hundreds of crimps a day, think they all have the same "pinch". The cheaper crimps tend to either be loose fitting from the beginning or weaken easily with heat and loosen, then the problem is compounded until you have the results you achieved.

If you care too, I would recommend Ancor brand crimps and a ratcheting style crimper.
Ancor is the best and the ratchet crimps insure a uniform, tight crimp - every time.

Anocr products at West Marine
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?view100page=100&Nao=0&Ntk=Primary%20Search%20West%20Marine&langId=-1&searchTermScope=3&catalogId=10001&searchKeyword=ancor&viewTaskName=SiteSearchView&keyword=ancor&beginIndex=0&Ntt=ancor&storeId=11151&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&N=377%20710&Ns=Most%20Popular|0&pageSize=10&sType=SimpleSearch

Ancor wire stripper
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50569#.T_rMMJH4L-s

Another type of stripper (I don't use this for the "crimp" feature)
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50569#.T_rMjpH4L-s


Unfortunately West Marine doesn't carry the standard Ancor crimper, but it isa availbe on eBay.
This is the type I have been using for over 20 years
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_kw=ancor+Ratcheting

(eBay search "ancor aatcheting")

Another version of a changeable die crimper
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50569#.T_rMvJH4L-s

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Like porthole said, anchor is the way to go. the ones with the heat shrink on them are the only way to go. like wise if you are going to do any rewiring get their wire also. I believe it is tinned.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Yep to all the above. Loose conections and a high amp draw.

 

[TravelTiger]

OK, thank you for the information. How would we go about checking for the loose connection or high amp draw? This switch controls the overhead lighting in the kitchen and living areas, approx. 8 (dual) light fixtures.

Thanks,
E

 

[Bob&Patty]

Tony, just make sure that the connectors fit REAL tight on the switch terminals. If they don't, squeeze them with plyers until they do. Dielectric grease can also help with the problem.

 

[WilmanJim]

If one switch is controlling 8 (dual) light fixtures and you have them on all the time, the switch might be underated for that load.

 

[TravelTiger]

If one switch is controlling 8 (dual) light fixtures and you have them on all the time, the switch might be underated for that load.

I wondered that.


We may consider turning some of the lights off individually... or changing the bulbs to LEDs to reduce the amp draw?

 

[jayc]

Erika, go with the LED's, you'll love them!