Bearing question

Capt7383

Well-known member
I will be going over/inspecting my dexter bearings 7k axle. I would like to have on hand the necessary parts should I need them. Looking at dexters parts they list bearing kits, these kits contain bearings, seals, grease caps and lug nuts. There is no mention of races, I was told to always replace the race when replacing bearings, or was I misinformed on that? Also why the new lug nuts?
Thanks in advance

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rxbristol

Well-known member
I cannot answer your questions, but I would recommend upgrading to Timken bearings and races if you need to replace the current ones.

I will be going over/inspecting my dexter bearings 7k axle. I would like to have on hand the necessary parts should I need them. Looking at dexters parts they list bearing kits, these kits contain bearings, seals, grease caps and lug nuts. There is no mention of races, I was told to always replace the race when replacing bearings, or was I misinformed on that? Also why the new lug nuts?
Thanks in advance

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MTPockets

Well-known member
The term 'Bearing' would include the race. A 'Bearing' consists of an inner race, roller & cage assembly, and an outer race. The roller & cage assembly is mounted on the inner race and together is called the bearing 'cone'. The outer race is the 'cup'. A common misconception is that people refer to the cone as the bearing, but in reality, must include the cup to be accurate. The cup should always be replaced when the cone is replaced; doing otherwise would be like replacing half a tire.. You just can't wear half the bearing. If the rollers show signs of wear or damage, the cup is as well.

"From an old retired bearing guy"
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
I will be going over/inspecting my dexter bearings 7k axle. I would like to have on hand the necessary parts should I need them. Looking at dexters parts they list bearing kits, these kits contain bearings, seals, grease caps and lug nuts. There is no mention of races, I was told to always replace the race when replacing bearings, or was I misinformed on that? Also why the new lug nuts?
Thanks in advance

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New bearings come as a set with the inner and outer. Never replace one without the other. With a year old trailer I'm assuming this is the first time you've opened them up. Unless you've reason believe there might be a problem, your bearings are probably going to be in good shape. I repacked ours after the first year, and they looked brand new. You will need to replace the grease seal. I attached a cross reference on the seals. As to the brand, it is my understanding that most of the automotive bearings sold under the Timken line are made in China. Other than double the price and different box, I've seen no significant difference in the quality or performance of a Chinese Timken bearing or the standard China bearing. If you have good "LOCAL" parts house not a big box, you may find the parts you need cheaper and in stock. I had a local parts house that stocked Dexter seals and bearings for RV dealers in the area. Pulled the first drum then took the seal with me to match up.

Take some time cleaning, inspecting (if there is any discoloration or pitting replace it) and repacking your bearings. Before I reinstall the outer bearing I also pack the center of the hub. Other than that the critical part is the preload. Use a torque wrench. While rotating the tire bring the torque up to about 45#. At that point I use a 3# hammer and whack the tire a few times around the perimeter to seat bearings. Then while rotating the tire bring the torque up to 50#. Without rotating the tire, carefully back off the nut, then finger tighten. When you install the nut retainer you should actually be able wiggle the nut slightly. If you can't the nut is to tight. Reinstall the grease cap. Now is good time to check your brake adjustment. If it's to far off I go through the adjust holes in the backing plate, but if it's close, I'm lazy so rather than try to adjust through that tiny hole, I hook up the truck and rotate the tire in reverse, and have the wife hit the brake letting the self adjusters do the work for me.

I've never found a need to replace the lug nuts, unless they were stripped (in which case you need to also replace the stud). Follow the Dexter instructions for torque!!!
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
As to the brand, it is my understanding that most of the automotive bearings sold under the Timken line are made in China. Other than double the price and different box, I've seen no significant difference in the quality or performance of a Chinese Timken bearing or the standard China bearing. If you have good "LOCAL" parts house not a big box, you may find the parts you need cheaper and in stock.

My Timkens were made in USA.
 

Capt7383

Well-known member
Wow! Great replies, thank you all so much . i have done the job on smalll trailers but not on something carrying 14k
Thanks again

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hoefler

Well-known member
I would add to this...do not wash the bearings in solvent. Solvent has oil in it and the grease will not stick to the bearings.

UNTRUE!!!! What else would you propose to clean them in?? Stoddard Solvent, Safety Clean Solvent, or Mineral Spirits are common good cleaning solvents. If the grease doesn't stick, the bearing are not dry.
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
I would add to this...do not wash the bearings in solvent. Solvent has oil in it and the grease will not stick to the bearings.

The proper way to clean is to soak/wash in solvent, then drip excess off bearing... Never blow dry with compressed air; This could cause bearing to spin and damage the raceways and rollers. Also, use only lint free towels around hands & bearings to avoid lint from entering bearing. Then pack bearing with a good lithium base #2 grease. PS - it's the oil in the grease that does the lubricating.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
WOW, Hoefler excuse me. So you do it your way and I will do it my mine. I deleted my post so as not to upset you.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
My experience with Easylube bearings is

1. forget the easylube crap and pack the bearings the old fashion way annually or every 8K miles.
2. Don't use the Dexter style spindle nut or clip retainer and use the tang washer and spindle nut instead.
3. Use good quality and recommended grease.

Remember that axle are not rated as well as your truck and require more maintenance and inspection.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
Bob, you and I must be in the same category......I use gasoline to clean the bearings then use compressed air to blow them out and dry. I've had many rigs and repacked many bearings just like this. Never ever had a problem. To each his own.
 
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