Boondocking / dry camping with roof air conditioner and all electrical outlets operational? (2024 North Trail 25RBP)

[Harvey The RV]

Last fall, we took delivery on a brand new 2024 North Trail 25RBP. We installed a bunch of extra gear (see below), and now we're looking into how to supply the air conditioner and the couple of electrical outlets that aren't already on the "pre-wired for solar" grid while we boondock, which we intend do do the majority of the time we're out.

Existing setup:

1. The North Trail itself plugs into 50 amp shore service and, as indicated above, it came pre-wired for solar (Sōl).
2. On the roof, we installed and plugged in 6 x 200W solar panels.
3. In the passthrough storage, which is now (mostly) our electrical bay, we attached large sections of plywood as the mounting surfaces for:
   1. 2 x 400Ah LiFePO4 batteries (800Ah total), attached to...
   2. A compatible battery combiner box, through...
   3. A 100A solar charge controller, with everything running through...
   4. A 3000W pure sine wave HF inverter charger, to...
   5. The house main breaker.

Everything is working great and communicating properly, but for medical reasons, we have to avoid extreme heat, so we need to make the roof air conditioner able to run reliably while boondocking. And while we're at at, we figure we should ensure the couple of still-non-solar electrical outlets should also be available while dry-camping.

Everything that was upgraded so far, we never had to go behind any walls or the ceiling, nor work without the clear instructions of the things we were installing. We're no electricians.

So would anybody be so kind as to talk us through whatever else we have to do in order to have our air conditioner and remaining electrical outlets available while boondocking? Hopefully, some others among you know more than we do! 🤓

Thanks!

 

[Harvey The RV]

After sleeping on it, I'm thinking this might be fine:

What if I just had a 30 amp receptacle/female professionally installed on the RV exterior, pulling on the house batteries? Then I just plug into that with my 30-to-50. That could work, right? I'd have to ensure the house main breakers and everything drawing power behind them is off, first, so as not to blow anything, but am I on the right track? Could anyone check me, please?

 

[taskswap]

OK, so you'd probably do well to go watch a ton of videos on Youtube by "Will Prowse" because he goes through situations like this and all the math in great depth...

You included a ton of detail, which is great, but left out the most critical one: your AC size. The BTU/hr rating on it gives you a good clue on its power draw. But even that would only be a ballpark number because even seemingly-small weather changes like 85F partly-cloudy vs 90F full-sun can almost double your AC usage, depending on how well insulated your camper is. But let's just SAY you have a single 13,500 BTU unit, and it runs about 30% of the time. That's probably pretty generous, but you have to start somewhere.

OK so the rough math here says this thing needs 2750W to start and 1250 while running. You need both numbers. The first tells you if your inverter will eat itself just trying to support it - and it's a close call. 2750W is "less than" the 3000W rating but most inverters start to heat up a lot and struggle with loads near capacity, and you'll invariably be doing other things - lights on, etc. That being said this is just the START load, which is brief, when the AC cycles on. It'll do that a lot all day so it's not unimportant, but you might be OK. You should probably look into adding a "soft start" to your AC - it costs a few hundred bucks but will cut this start load almost in half so your inverter can keep up.

Now again super rough math here but if you're running it 30% of the day and let's say a "day" is 10 hours of "boy that sun is hot" time, and it takes 1250W during this, you'll need just under 4200Wh to supply it. Inverters aren't 100% efficient so let's say closer to 5000Wh to be safe. Your batteries can store 800Ah*12V or 9600Wh of power. So on paper you can do this. But bear in mind you'll be discharging and recharging your batteries 52% literally every day - they won't last very long, maybe a few years.

A bigger worry is charging. At 1200W the math says a good sunny day should give you enough to recharge. But what if it's not sunny - and even worse, IS sunny the next day? You could start to fall behind pretty fast. And don't forget chargers aren't 100% efficient either. You'll need to be diligent about keeping those panels clean and dust/leaf-free - even a small amount of shading is going to set you back. You're going to want to look into that because the difference isn't linear and you're going to be running close to the edge. Last fall for giggles I checked my charge controller's stats just before and after cleaning a panel - shading just one cell/corner of the panel (a large maple leaf) knocked 30% out of the panel. It's because the panels are wired in parallel/series strands inside the panel itself, to get their output voltage higher. So when one cell is shaded, a whole string goes "out" like Christmas lights with one bad bulb.

I'm not sure what you're talking about in your second post about having a receptacle installed. What would you plug into this? You mention a 30-to-50 adapter. But receptacles are meant to be inputs - are you going to power this with a house or generator? In which case it doesn't matter what's on board. Or are you thinking you'll power something outside FROM your coach? In which case that's a whole different conversation.

 

[david-steph2018]

Do you have anything in the breaker box for the rig working on solar only? If you unplug shore power what is working on solar?

 

[Harvey The RV]

OK, so you'd probably do well to go watch a ton of videos on Youtube by "Will Prowse" because he goes through situations like this and all the math in great depth...

You included a ton of detail, which is great, but left out the most critical one: your AC size. The BTU/hr rating on it gives you a good clue on its power draw. But even that would only be a ballpark number because even seemingly-small weather changes like 85F partly-cloudy vs 90F full-sun can almost double your AC usage, depending on how well insulated your camper is. But let's just SAY you have a single 13,500 BTU unit, and it runs about 30% of the time. That's probably pretty generous, but you have to start somewhere.

OK so the rough math here says this thing needs 2750W to start and 1250 while running. You need both numbers. The first tells you if your inverter will eat itself just trying to support it - and it's a close call. 2750W is "less than" the 3000W rating but most inverters start to heat up a lot and struggle with loads near capacity, and you'll invariably be doing other things - lights on, etc. That being said this is just the START load, which is brief, when the AC cycles on. It'll do that a lot all day so it's not unimportant, but you might be OK. You should probably look into adding a "soft start" to your AC - it costs a few hundred bucks but will cut this start load almost in half so your inverter can keep up.

Now again super rough math here but if you're running it 30% of the day and let's say a "day" is 10 hours of "boy that sun is hot" time, and it takes 1250W during this, you'll need just under 4200Wh to supply it. Inverters aren't 100% efficient so let's say closer to 5000Wh to be safe. Your batteries can store 800Ah*12V or 9600Wh of power. So on paper you can do this. But bear in mind you'll be discharging and recharging your batteries 52% literally every day - they won't last very long, maybe a few years.

A bigger worry is charging. At 1200W the math says a good sunny day should give you enough to recharge. But what if it's not sunny - and even worse, IS sunny the next day? You could start to fall behind pretty fast. And don't forget chargers aren't 100% efficient either. You'll need to be diligent about keeping those panels clean and dust/leaf-free - even a small amount of shading is going to set you back. You're going to want to look into that because the difference isn't linear and you're going to be running close to the edge. Last fall for giggles I checked my charge controller's stats just before and after cleaning a panel - shading just one cell/corner of the panel (a large maple leaf) knocked 30% out of the panel. It's because the panels are wired in parallel/series strands inside the panel itself, to get their output voltage higher. So when one cell is shaded, a whole string goes "out" like Christmas lights with one bad bulb.

I'm not sure what you're talking about in your second post about having a receptacle installed. What would you plug into this? You mention a 30-to-50 adapter. But receptacles are meant to be inputs - are you going to power this with a house or generator? In which case it doesn't matter what's on board. Or are you thinking you'll power something outside FROM your coach? In which case that's a whole different conversation.

Now THAT'S an answer fit for my OCD! Thanks so much!

I'm learning a ton about electrical systems on the last couple of weeks but, I'm always happy to learn more. Especially about electrical. Dangerous stuff (I wasn't being facetious about the OCD).

But, armed with this type of info, hopefully I won't sound like too much of a moron when I speak to professionals. Which I did earlier this morning, BTW. Same cautions as yours, but it's totally doable.

Also, for the sake of anyone curious, the AC unit is a 1500W, draws 9.5 amps with an inrush of 19.8 amps. Yes, a soft start device will need to go in at the same time.

Regarding my use of the term receptacle/female, forgive me if I used the wrong words. An outlet, I believe is what I'm supposed to say, correct?

Anyway, thanks for the detail! (Seriously, because I don't want anyone to think I'm being sarcastic).

 

[taskswap]

For the receptacle, no need to be pedantic about the words but just by tradition in 120v-land, a receptacle/outlet/socket is a power output/supply and a plug is an input. What I was confused about is whether you wanted to add an additional, external power supply from something like a generator or house into your camper. That would make sense to talk about from the perspective of supplying additional loads but since every camper already has one I felt that couldn't be what you meant...

Are you trying to get around the fact that most campers' inverters aren't hard-wired to the entire house panel but rather just have one or two dedicated cables e.g. to a fridge and/or socket or two? One thing you definitely DON'T want to do to get around this is try to run an extension cord from your inverter over to your camper's 30/50A power-in socket. You'd back-feed your charge controller causing the system to try to charge itself from itself, so to speak, and it would drain your battery pretty quickly. Your inverter is hard-wired but could still not be wired to your AC so you might be trying to figure out what to do here?

If that's the case, then an electrician is probably your best best if you aren't 100% sure what to do next. Your pics only show where one of those two Romex cables goes - there's just one small breaker box labeled "outlets". I don't see an automatic AC transfer switch but there must be one somewhere in there - the rest of the setup looks pretty professional and this is a standard thing to put in. It might be on the other end of that first yellow cable to the inverter (probably "line in"). Usually that's where the decision is made about what the inverter "can run".

This usually is a small black or grey box (see below) that sits somewhere near where campground/house/generator power comes "in" to the camper. It has two inputs and one output. One input goes to the campground power input port, One input goes to the inverter. The output goews to the load.

When that input is hot, the transfer switch activates and cuts off the inverter - this does it no harm even if it's running, but stops it from actually powering the load and draining your battery. So "on shore power" you run your load off that. When there is no shore power (you unplug or turn off your generator) the transfer switch (just a relay, really) flips it so the inverter runs the load. There's usually one transfer switch per load but some bigger ones can handle several loads at once. Do you have one in your setup?

 

[Harvey The RV]

Are you trying to get around the fact that most campers' inverters aren't hard-wired to the entire house panel...?

If that's the case, then an electrician is probably your best best if you aren't 100% sure what to do next.

Truer words, my friend!

I'm a project manager, and a big believer in leaving the subject matter expertise to the subject matter experts. As soon as I start seeing and hearing stuff that I don't totally get, I'm looking for someone who knows a lot more than me. Tell them where I want to end up, let them get me there. Thanks to you, I've asked around the neighborhood and got a couple a recommendations for trustworthy local mechanics with electrical experience in RVs and boats. Maybe I'll try to tackle a big electrical job myself in an issue or two from now, but that's future me's problem! 🤯

Thanks again!

Ian

 

[Harvey The RV]

Do you have anything in the breaker box for the rig working on solar only? If you unplug shore power what is working on solar?

Hey. David-Steph!

Nope, nothing working on solar exclusively. I believe the only components that DON'T work on solar are the air conditioning and a couple of the several outlets.

 

[Harvey The RV]

I don't see an automatic AC transfer switch but there must be one somewhere in there - the rest of the setup looks pretty professional and this is a standard thing to put in. It might be on the other end of that first yellow cable to the inverter (probably "line in").

Morning taskswap,

So the line in to the inverter charger terminates behind the bulkhead in the pass through storage, and I wasn't the person who did that wiring. Aside from the 6 x 200w solar panels on the roof and the equipment in the passthrough storage, nothing else was touched (I didn't do it myself, just managed the project). But I have the full inventory list of every piece of hardware used in the job, right down to screws and lengths of wire, and no transfer switch was charged to the project. So whatever came from the factory is behind the walls and above the ceiling, but nothing else (I hope!). The other side of the passthrough bulkhead is the bedroom, which is at the front on the trailer, nowhere near the shore power port. And there are no panels near the shore power port except for the exterior shower housing. Before I start ripping things apart out of curiosity, is there any place in particular where the smart money says I might find the factory transfer switch?

 

[david-steph2018]

If your North Trail did not come with a generator or the generator prep ready, then there would not be the need for a transfer switch.
The transfer switch is to switch from shore pore to generator power if you use the generator. A commonly used transfer switch for the whole rig is a PD52:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD52.html?msclkid=f2f6468d05f314265ad7208fc9f1dc92&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20%7C%20Search%20-%20Accessories%20and%20Parts%20-%20SKU&utm_term=pd52%20progressive%20dynamics&utm_content=Progressive%20Dynamics%20PD52

To check for a transfer switch, follow the incoming power wire to the breaker panel.

 

[david-steph2018]

Here is a rough listing of the solar we have on our rig:
8-200W Mono solar Panel 12V w/ cable
2-Victron Multiplus II 3K inverter
1-Victron SmartSolar MPPT250|100
8-Elevation Battery 120Ah (Green)
1-SmartShunt 500A Battery Monitoring
1-Victron AGS
3-EasyStart 364
2-MNEDC-Quad Enclosure that holds 4 breakers
2-Breaker Box - Holds 175/250A DC Breaker
plus the wiring and connectors, mounts for the panels.

With this setup we run our AC unit when needed and we have operated 2 AC units at once. We have spent 3-months in Key West on solar power at the Naval Air Station.
The Victron AGS, will start the generator when our batteries get to 20% and cuts off at 80% of power. The 3 Easy Starts are 1 for each AC unit, allowing us to start/operate 2 AC units on battery.

 

[Harvey The RV]

If your North Trail did not come with a generator or the generator prep ready, then there would not be the need for a transfer switch.
The transfer switch is to switch from shore pore to generator power if you use the generator. A commonly used transfer switch for the whole rig is a PD52:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD52.html?msclkid=f2f6468d05f314265ad7208fc9f1dc92&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20%7C%20Search%20-%20Accessories%20and%20Parts%20-%20SKU&utm_term=pd52%20progressive%20dynamics&utm_content=Progressive%20Dynamics%20PD52

To check for a transfer switch, follow the incoming power wire to the breaker panel.

Hey david-steph,

Confirmed: no factory installed transfer switch. But the HF 3000W that I have on the way has a built-in one. So does that mean I won't have to breach any bulkhead? Sounds like it.

BTW, yes, I also have a SoftStart on the way for the air conditioner. Which will leave me with this electrical setup:

*North Trail 25RBP with 50 amp service and a single 1500W air-conditioner (no transfer switch).
*6 x 200W Renogy solar panels
*2 x 400Ah Renogy (REGO) LiFePO4 batteries
*3000W Renogy Pure Sine Wave HF inverter charger
*100 amp Renogy solar charge controller, with built in transfer switch
*SoftStartRV for the air conditioner.
*Various sensors and monitors plugged into the communications ports of the major components above
*Various other electrical hardware

Is it wishful thinking on my part, or will it then be (after the new 3000W inverter charger gets here) just a matter of what I connect (or not) to the line(s) out? I was thinking there was something internal in the RV that separates the AC circuit from the rest but, if there's no factory-installed transfer switch, I'm now thinking everything I need to get at is already accessible. Yes?

 

[david-steph2018]

Confused about the statement "I was thinking there was something internal in the RV that separates the AC circuit from the rest"? Kind of is, it is the breaker panel. But if you are thinking another kind of switch, no.
What you want is to get the inverter power to the breaker box after unplugging from shore power. So, you will need to hook shore power to the transfer switch as primary power and then power from inverter to the other input of the transfer switch. When shore power goes out, the transfer switch will switch to the power from the inverter.

 

[Harvey The RV]

Confused about the statement "I was thinking there was something internal in the RV that separates the AC circuit from the rest"? Kind of is, it is the breaker panel. But if you are thinking another kind of switch, no.
What you want is to get the inverter power to the breaker box after unplugging from shore power. So, you will need to hook shore power to the transfer switch as primary power and then power from inverter to the other input of the transfer switch. When shore power goes out, the transfer switch will switch to the power from the inverter.

Didn't mean to confuse anyone. I'm a layperson, don't know the proper jargon yet. But you took my meaning accurately anyway. Breaker panel with the stated connections at the transfer switch. Got it. Thanks.

 

[Bogie]

There is no transfer switch in your RV unless the solar installer put one in. As previously mentioned, if you had a generator prep package, then yes. But generator prep is not an option from Heartland for your model.

As david-steph2018 says, you would have to install a transfer switch between the solar and shore power before it gets to the breaker panel if you intend to run the entire AC side on solar and have if function automatically.

Since you said "We are no electricians", you need to find a qualified installer that knows how the electrical in RV's are installed.

You also need to know exactly how the present system was installed. If you can't ask the actual installer, you will need to have someone look at what you have behind the basement wall to understand what was done. Then they can tell you what needs to be done to get it the way you are requesting.

Based on what I see in your pictures, I am thinking (and this is pure speculation) that when your system was installed, they grabbed the circuit that was originally supplying your bedroom plugs, ran it to the inverter/converter and then ran the output wire back to power the bed room plugs. You may be able to figure some of this out, but it would require the ability to safely disconnect the AC input to the inverter/converter. Again, something only a qualified person should do.

Your Renogy inverter/converter actually has a transfer switch built into it. Take a look at the video on this link to understand how it is installed and how it works. https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/

I am sure it's internal transfer switch of the inverter/converter is arranged so it normally connects the AC input and output together whenever it is shut off. Hence, the need for a qualified person to physically disconnect the wire. Then they may be able to reason out how it is all connected. Otherwise, you need to either take down the basement wall. Or, perhaps you can gain viewing access from under the bed inside the RV. If that is possible, it may be easier than removing all the gear from the basement wall.

 

[Harvey The RV]

There is no transfer switch in your RV unless the solar installer put one in. As previously mentioned, if you had a generator prep package, then yes. But generator prep is not an option from Heartland for your model.

As david-steph2018 says, you would have to install a transfer switch between the solar and shore power before it gets to the breaker panel if you intend to run the entire AC side on solar and have if function automatically.

Since you said "We are no electricians", you need to find a qualified installer that knows how the electrical in RV's are installed.

You also need to know exactly how the present system was installed. If you can't ask the actual installer, you will need to have someone look at what you have behind the basement wall to understand what was done. Then they can tell you what needs to be done to get it the way you are requesting.

Based on what I see in your pictures, I am thinking (and this is pure speculation) that when your system was installed, they grabbed the circuit that was originally supplying your bedroom plugs, ran it to the inverter/converter and then ran the output wire back to power the bed room plugs. You may be able to figure some of this out, but it would require the ability to safely disconnect the AC input to the inverter/converter. Again, something only a qualified person should do.

Your Renogy inverter/converter actually has a transfer switch built into it. Take a look at the video on this link to understand how it is installed and how it works. https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/

I am sure it's internal transfer switch of the inverter/converter is arranged so it normally connects the AC input and output together whenever it is shut off. Hence, the need for a qualified person to physically disconnect the wire. Then they may be able to reason out how it is all connected. Otherwise, you need to either take down the basement wall. Or, perhaps you can gain viewing access from under the bed inside the RV. If that is possible, it may be easier than removing all the gear from the basement wall.

Hey Boogie,

Yes, a lot of what you mention here is addressed at various points throughout the thread.

A few weeks ago, I instructed the installer to provide what I wanted and describe above in detail, using all Renogy components which I provided (we're actually talking about the HF version of the 3000W Renogy inverter charger though, which my installer said was overkill for his solution, so I returned it at a loss in favour of the 2000W, but I've now RE-purchased a Renogy 3000W, where only the HF upgrade was still available), all fused and switched and wired per the installation instructions in each components manuals, each of which includes special instructions for integrations with other Renogy products, where applicable. What happened was he realized he screwed up when I confronted him about my air conditioning not being hooked up.

Rest assured, I'm good with everything I can see in my pass through storage, now electrical bay. I didn't install it, but I purchased every piece of hardware, gave clear instructions what I wanted to the person who did. Who, it turned out, messed up my job. I'm satisfied that everything I see has been installed per Renogy requirements, though.

So, backstory, not that I feel I should have to provide one, is that I hired a guy, who ended messing up my job, because I have medical issues, so I wouldn't, couldn't, do the stuff that needs to be done here. Nor have I said anywhere that I, personally, was interested in anything other than the simplest and lightest of talks that would be required for the upgrade I'm talking about.

I'm just trying to get the job finished that the first guy screwed up, and I appreciate all the help from everybody, I truly do, but, for example, the suggestions to have the equipment installed by a qualified individual is an explicit requirement in the Renogy manuals. The Renogy stuff isn't the black box to me here, it's the trailer's guts that is. That's why I'm in this forum!

Let's just keep our eyes on the ball here, can't we? 🤓

Either way, I've learned here that there was no factory installed transfer switch, so I'm dealing with a direct run (forgive me if that's not the right word) from the shore power port to the breaker box. Now I'll just have to swap my existing 2000W inverter charger with the incoming 3000W one, set it to AC priority, add a SoftStartRV for my 1500W air conditioner, and be careful managing the load from the house. Am I missing anything?

 

[Bogie]

Sorry you didn't like the qualified installer reference. The intent is to keep you and whoever is working on you RV safe, including when your system is in use.

I didn't say this, but for reference, I am an electrical engineer and I installed my own RV Solar including dual transfer switches for automatic operation weather I am on shore power, generator or solar.

The reason I suggested a qualified installer who understands RV installations is because you have 50 amp service. 50 amp service is actually comprised of two 110 volt circuits not a single 50 amp circuit. Additionally, the breaker panel is constructed to accept these two separate circuits on two separate busses. (probably why some of your outlets do not work when on the inverter) This allows the branch circuits to be spread across the two 110 volt circuits evenly.

Your original post indicated you wanted to power "the remaining outlets". If I'm understanding your plan correctly, just changing to a 3000 watt inverter isn't going to accomplish that goal. Reason being, the transfer switch within the Renogy is a single circuit 110 volt transfer. It will not accommodate the two 110 volt circuits that make up a 50 amp RV service.

Hope that helps.

 

[Harvey The RV]

Sorry you didn't like the qualified installer reference. The intent is to keep you and whoever is working on you RV safe, including when your system is in use.

I didn't say this, but for reference, I am an electrical engineer and I installed my own RV Solar including dual transfer switches for automatic operation weather I am on shore power, generator or solar.

The reason I suggested a qualified installer who understands RV installations is because you have 50 amp service. 50 amp service is actually comprised of two 110 volt circuits not a single 50 amp circuit. Additionally, the breaker panel is constructed to accept these two separate circuits on two separate busses. (probably why some of your outlets do not work when on the inverter) This allows the branch circuits to be spread across the two 110 volt circuits evenly.

Your original post indicated you wanted to power "the remaining outlets". If I'm understanding your plan correctly, just changing to a 3000 watt inverter isn't going to accomplish that goal. Reason being, the transfer switch within the Renogy is a single circuit 110 volt transfer. It will not accommodate the two 110 volt circuits that make up a 50 amp RV service.

Hope that helps.

Morning Bogie,

Good info, thanks very much.

No sorry necessary for me being irritable. As long as we're getting to know each other, I might as well let the forum know that I have some diagnosed emotional issues: PTSD, OCD, generalized anxiety disorder or GAD and, on a relapsing/remitting basis, major depressive disorder or MDD. So I get a little touchy sometimes, and having any instructions repeated to me multiple times with a sense of urgency (even by multiple people) is one of my catalysts. So the apology is mine, but apologizing doesn't mean I'll be able to stop the behavior, unfortunately. So I appreciate your patience and sticking with it! THAT's keeping our eyes on the ball.

So back to the issue at hand, the 50 amp service. Here's what it says in the user manual for the Renogy Pure Sine Wave 3000W High Frequency Inverter Charger:

"Integrates a 50A AC Transfer Relay for continuous 50A current to AC output when connected to both
the grid and battery."

Accepting of course that I'll have to manage my boondocking load to keep it way lower than that, if the above-described feature description doesn't reflect the characteristics that I need, what are the other characteristics that I need, if you don't mind?

 

[Bogie]

May be some confusion on my part.

When you said you were going with a 3000 Watt inverter, you said " where only the HF upgrade was still available". I thought you were saying you were changing to the regular 3000 watt inverter, not the HF model. If you are in fact going to the HF model, it does indeed have a split phase transfer switch. With additional wiring, to/from the breaker panel, this should accomplish your goal to power the entire RV when on solar.

 

[Harvey The RV]

May be some confusion on my part.

When you said you were going with a 3000 Watt inverter, you said " where only the HF upgrade was still available". I thought you were saying you were changing to the regular 3000 watt inverter, not the HF model. If you are in fact going to the HF model, it does indeed have a split phase transfer switch. With additional wiring, to/from the breaker panel, this should accomplish your goal to power the entire RV when on solar.

Hey Bogie,

Great to hear that! I feel like I'm closer now. Thanks!

So it sounds like I should find an RV tech or an electrician who would be comfortable with these asks:

I need my customer-supplied SoftStartRV to be installed at the trailer's single 1500W air conditioner according to manufacturer specs.

I need to have my currently-mounted 2000W Renogy Pure Sine Wave inverter charger swapped out for a customer-supplied 3000W Renogy Pure Sine Wave HF inverter charger, which has a built in split phase transfer switch.

I need to have the split-phase transfer switch wired such that my boondocking / no-shore-power setup will include my air conditioner and the couple of the AC outlets that are not already powered during boondocking, and that's bound to include modifications between the transfer switch and the breaker panel, because the previous installer just tapped into one bus.

The installer will find that the currently-mounted 2000W all-Renogy system is wired, fused, switched, mounted, etc. according to Renogy specs and runs perfectly, and that the Renogy 3000W Pure Sine Wave HF inverter charger and the SoftStartRV are new in box.

I'm starting to feel like I'm ready to shop around the project. Am I missing anything pertinent, do you think?

Thanks again,
Ian