Disc Brake Conversion Tutoral

R

RAHanock

Active Member
Thanks Dave. They used the rubber flex lines that came with two kits. I'm not sure of the diameter. Here's the link to the kits, though it doesn't indicate the ID.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-35-hydraulic-line-kits.aspx

I have the pump mounted about 3 feet in front of the first front wheel just to the left of the stairs for protection. I thought the line length would be too long if mounted in the front storage compartment. Do you think if I used aluminum lines I would be better off?

Thanks,
 
cookie

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I looked at the kit in the link you provided. I am not sure what size the flex hose is that they provide. It looks like 1/8 with 3/16 adapter.
I looked into the flex lines from the actuator but they would not provide enough volume for me. The flex is commonly used on boat and utility trailers.
Which actuator did they provide. The brakes require 1500psi. I think most people use one that provides 2000 psi.
I don't think aluminum would be an option. But I would recommend 1/4" steel. You will need to do a double flare on the ends.

Peace
Dave
 
Rodbuster

Rodbuster

Well-known member
What a great instructional video. I just came across it because somebody posted something and bumped it to the top. I won't speak for others but as for myself, I get a lot more out of actually seeing how something is done opposed to reading about how to do it.

Are there other such videos on this forum?

Thank you Dave for taking the time.
Dick
 
T

TomD

Member
Dave,
You produced a great video. Do you have any links as to where to buy the brakes, brake lines and actuator?
Thank you,
Tom
 
cookie

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Hi Tom. Thank you. I had fun doing it.
I bought most of the parts locally. But you should be able to find them on line.
Mor-Ryde sells the kit. Etrailer also has them as well as Southwest Wheel.
The steel brake lines and fittings I bought locally at an auto parts store. I ran 1/4" to the wheels and then reduced to 3/16 to the calipers.
The rubber flex lines and mounting brackets I got at Bludot.
I think they all sell the actuator. There are two that I would consider. Brakerite or Carlysle.

Peace
Dave
 
R

RAHanock

Active Member
Here is an update on my brake conversion. The 2 to 2.5 sec. delay is virtually gone now. I reworked the lines to use 1/4 in. steel and only used the flexible lines at each wheel. The brakes now work great - no delay. It is hard to tell if I am stopping any sort of load. Once the brakes are adjusted for proper gain, it decelerates at the same rate using the same pedal force as when there is no 5th wheel attached.
 
cookie

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Reed, thanks for the update.
Good to hear that it worked out well.
I don't want to say "I told you so"......buuut.

Peace
Dave
 
P

Phatkd

Well-known member
For some reason Dave, this video seems to have been taken down. I am very interested to see it. Maybe it's just not meant to be

UPDATE - Located it on your YT channel. Fantastic work Dave! I wish I had the b@lls to take on something like this.
 
Last edited:
jnbhobe

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Phatkd said:
For some reason Dave, this video seems to have been taken down. I am very interested to see it. Maybe it's just not meant to be

UPDATE - Located it on your YT channel. Fantastic work Dave! I wish I had the b@lls to take on something like this.
Click to expand...

Its nowhere near as hard as it looks, I think the hard part is running the lines, bendung and flaring the ends. I just came across a new line that is a nickel steel that is easier to work with.
 
mattpopp

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
jnbhobe said:
Its nowhere near as hard as it looks, I think the hard part is running the lines, bendung and flaring the ends. I just came across a new line that is a nickel steel that is easier to work with.
Click to expand...

I would say the hardest part is spending the money..... Though well worth every penny.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 3 HD
 
mattpopp

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
jnbhobe said:
mattpopp said:
I would say the hardest part is spending the money..... Though well worth every penny.

If I remember right I had about $ 1500 into doing mine, but I am able to buy as a auto parts dealer.
Click to expand...

I believe the entire Kodiak kit is around $1800 for a tandem axle. Using the 8k outer bearings with oil bath seals.

My issue right now is we might be trading up next year. Maybe as we want the C4100 but we don't know if we will be able to as we are planning to start building a house soon. So the finances will be tapped pretty heavily. Not about to over extend myself either.

I don't want to invest the money if I sell it in a year but I would do it if I knew I will still have it for two years. Just wont know until next year.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 3 HD
Click to expand...
 
J

jejinks

Member
mattpopp said:
jnbhobe said:
I believe the entire Kodiak kit is around $1800 for a tandem axle. Using the 8k outer bearings with oil bath seals.

My issue right now is we might be trading up next year. Maybe as we want the C4100 but we don't know if we will be able to as we are planning to start building a house soon. So the finances will be tapped pretty heavily. Not about to over extend myself either.

I don't want to invest the money if I sell it in a year but I would do it if I knew I will still have it for two years. Just wont know until next year.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 3 HD
Click to expand...


Where did you buy or thinking to buy? I have looked at Kodiak's website and can't find the entire kit.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
2019 Heartland F250 ToyHauler AC ducting
Replies
0
Views
632
billj0124
B
D
Trailer Brakes Weakening
Replies
7
Views
1K
david-steph2018
D
W
Elkridge wall repair.
Replies
8
Views
2K
Burbman
B
R
Why no discussion
Replies
9
Views
1K
jayc
jayc
A
ITEMS THAT NEED TO BE ADDRESSED, SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE IMPROVEMENTS
Replies
5
Views
2K
ARTSTOY
A
Top