Electrical issues Bighorn 3055RL
- Thread starter kevo555
- Start date
wdk450
Well-known member
The common denominator here seems to be your 12 volts DC circuits supplied by the battery which is recharged when plugged in by the converter/charger, and at a lower charging level when driving down the road (from the truck's charging system).
You need to start by MEASURING the DC voltage on the battery. It should be at about 13.2 volts when plugged in. Electrical multimeters can be found inexpensively all over now.
This owner composed 12 volt troubleshooting manual may be of some help to you:
BTW, the RV refrigerators use the RV 12 volts DC to power the control logic circuit board which controls ALL functions of the refrigerator in ANY power mode for the ammonia boiler heating - propane or 110 VAC electric. The only use of 110 VAC in the refrigerator is to power these heating elements (and maybe an optional icemaker).
You need to start by MEASURING the DC voltage on the battery. It should be at about 13.2 volts when plugged in. Electrical multimeters can be found inexpensively all over now.
This owner composed 12 volt troubleshooting manual may be of some help to you:
BTW, the RV refrigerators use the RV 12 volts DC to power the control logic circuit board which controls ALL functions of the refrigerator in ANY power mode for the ammonia boiler heating - propane or 110 VAC electric. The only use of 110 VAC in the refrigerator is to power these heating elements (and maybe an optional icemaker).
jmarnell
Well-known member
You could take the battery to an auto parts store and have it tested to see if it's bad. We had one of our batteries go bad after only 2 years. And if there is room for a 2nd battery, I'd put it in. That will give you more standby power when not plugged into shore power.
wdk450
Well-known member
Also, 1 battery is the minimum power needed for lifting the front of the trailer with the landing gear for hitching/unhitching and bringing the slides in/out. So 2 are better.
To go along with these peak power needs, I ALWAYS disconnect shore power about the LAST thing when departing an RV space, and connect the shorepower about 1st thing when arriving at an RV space. My Progressive 9260 Converter/Quad stage Charger puts out 60 amps beyond what the charged batteries can supply.
To go along with these peak power needs, I ALWAYS disconnect shore power about the LAST thing when departing an RV space, and connect the shorepower about 1st thing when arriving at an RV space. My Progressive 9260 Converter/Quad stage Charger puts out 60 amps beyond what the charged batteries can supply.
wdk450
Well-known member
So, maybe the converter/charger charging the 12 volt DC electrical system is running off of a GFI chained outlet. It would be good to trip the GFI (test button), and measure to see if the 12 volt DC charging quits. The Converter has its own 110 volt breaker on my AC electrical panel, and NOT GFI protected. All GFI stuff is on another breaker. But my converter is located in the crawl space underneath the shower/bathroom area, and many owners have a freshwater plumbing atmospheric breaker valve on the black tank cleaner supply line. and this valve has historically broken and flooded the expensive ($260 in 2014) multi stage charger/converter below it. Maybe if the converter was on a GFI protected circuit it might not have been destroyed by the flooding.
wdk450
Well-known member
Is the refrigerator in a slide-out? Many problems with wiring have been reported in slide-outs with wires that flex with every slideout position change and an electrical connector box under the slide with flaky wirenut wiring.
There should be a screw terminal strip on the back (outside access) of the refrigerator for the 12 volt DC supply connection where you can measure this vital refrigerator (logic board) power supply.
If you look inside the refrigerator door, you should find a sticker with the make and model of the refrigerator. Loooking at the files list linked from our library, you should find a manual for the refrig with a schematic diagram and troubleshooting tips.
There should be a screw terminal strip on the back (outside access) of the refrigerator for the 12 volt DC supply connection where you can measure this vital refrigerator (logic board) power supply.
If you look inside the refrigerator door, you should find a sticker with the make and model of the refrigerator. Loooking at the files list linked from our library, you should find a manual for the refrig with a schematic diagram and troubleshooting tips.
