FIXED: Water pump hammering like crazy (bad water pump)

[ALF]

Re: Water pump hammering like crazy

It's Paul's fault. He knows who he is

Yeah...I'm sure I'll get blamed for the weight gain too. New breadmaker...my fault....Pizza....my fault....The Champagne of Beers!!! Obviously MY FAULT!
Come join us at the GA Rally and I will have some to share.

 

[jbeletti]

Re: Water pump hammering like crazy

Yeah...I'm sure I'll get blamed for the weight gain too. New breadmaker...my fault....Pizza....my fault....The Champagne of Beers!!! Obviously MY FAULT!
View attachment 56335Come join us at the GA Rally and I will have some to share.

You bet your sweet bippy it's 'your fault'. I have a long ways to go to get even with you my fellow 'blamer' Nancy found the Champagne of Beers today at Publix. I'm stocked well, heading into Texas next week.

As you know, we'll be flying, driving and taking a train to get to the GA and FL rallies. I will expect beer And ribs, and pizza, and chili and ........

 

[porthole]

Have you replaced your plastic kant/will/leak valve yet with the new brass version?

 

[jbeletti]

Have you replaced your plastic kant/will/leak valve yet with the new brass version?

I have not. Might have to get hold of a few of those to carry with me. I'm carrying 2 spare plastic ones to give out to others as needed.

 

[jbeletti]

So, new issue and it's with the new pump. Pulsating water flow at all faucets. Thinking I need to adjust the pressure switch. More fun. Wasn't planning on going back into the belly of the beast so soon.

Thinking on my next coach to "possibly" locate my water pump separate from the filters and in a location I can access more easily. Though they require no maintenance and have been pretty reliable for me, it's a pain to unload stuff from the floor of my storage bag and crawl back to the pump.

Whine over

 

[travelin2]

I have not. Might have to get hold of a few of those to carry with me. I'm carrying 2 spare plastic ones to give out to others as needed.

Nylon or brass they both utilize the same nylon replacement core...”all models use repair kit 200RV-RK”...
http://andersonbrass.com/rv_water_service_panels.php


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jbeletti]

Nylon or brass they both utilize the same nylon replacement core...”all models use repair kit 200RV-RK”...
http://andersonbrass.com/rv_water_service_panels.php

Thanks Lyle.

So what actual component changed from plastic to brass - anyone know?

 

[porthole]

Had a picture, can't find it at the moment.

But - just saying - If my company name was 'Anderson Brass Company', and I made a valve called 'Kantleak', I sure as heck would make my possibly can leak Kantleak using some of the best materials available, such as a material showcased in my company name!

 

[travelin2]

Thanks Lyle.

So what actual component changed from plastic to brass - anyone know?

Based on the part description my assumption it’s this valve number...200RV-PT


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[travelin2]

Based on the part description my assumption it’s this valve number...200RV-PT. The valve housing but still uses the nylon core


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[porthole]

So Jim, one of my projects almost since day one has been trying to quiet down the pump and rattles. We don't get water hammer, but just the pump running is enough for me to think about it.

I have wrapped the water lines in foam, use an accumulator, changed pump location, changed pump mounting, several times all with minimal success, re-routed water lines etc.

One of my plans has always been to introduce a centrifugal 110 AC pump into the system. On our bigger boat I had a 1/2 horsepower centrifugal well pump paralleled into the system. When on 110 AC (which was most of the time) we had quiet, full and steady water flow and pressure. If you listened closely you could just hear the relay kicking in, but that was it.

I actually found a compact 110 volt centrifugal pump this year, about the same size as our 12 volt pumps. Project started out OK, but I ended up getting a defective pump, and then we were off traveling.

I have also considered several times mounting a second 12 volt pump somewhere under the rear of the trailer, thinking maybe I could move the noise as far away as possible.

 

[travelin2]

DC-I’v done all you have and at the kitchen sink we have literally zero sound of the pump running. Because the pump is directly under the bathroom floor, if you “listen”
for it, it’s audible while using the sink. In the shower, it’s unnoticeable.
Even Nancy has remarked how quiet I’ve made the pump and we use it a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jbeletti]

So Jim, one of my projects almost since day one has been trying to quiet down the pump and rattles. We don't get water hammer, but just the pump running is enough for me to think about it.

I have wrapped the water lines in foam, use an accumulator, changed pump location, changed pump mounting, several times all with minimal success, re-routed water lines etc.

One of my plans has always been to introduce a centrifugal 110 AC pump into the system. On our bigger boat I had a 1/2 horsepower centrifugal well pump paralleled into the system. When on 110 AC (which was most of the time) we had quiet, full and steady water flow and pressure. If you listened closely you could just hear the relay kicking in, but that was it.

I actually found a compact 110 volt centrifugal pump this year, about the same size as our 12 volt pumps. Project started out OK, but I ended up getting a defective pump, and then we were off traveling.

I have also considered several times mounting a second 12 volt pump somewhere under the rear of the trailer, thinking maybe I could move the noise as far away as possible.

Jerrod Jess went through a number of iterations of mounting pads / materials before he settled on something that gave him the quietest operation. Unsure what he ended up with.

For myself, I'm okay with the normal pump noise. It just hums along. Right now though, I'm getting a pulsing of water flow out of my faucets. When I'm ready to do so, I will expose the pump, look for an adjust the pressure switch. Hoping I have an adjustment on the pump head.

 

[jbeletti]

Had a picture, can't find it at the moment.

But - just saying - If my company name was 'Anderson Brass Company', and I made a valve called 'Kantleak', I sure as heck would make my possibly can leak Kantleak using some of the best materials available, such as a material showcased in my company name!

You made me chuckle today Duane And I agree with you.

 

[jbeletti]

Based on the part description my assumption it’s this valve number...200RV-PT

I think I understand now. They have a version that has a brass valve body versus the plastic body. And both versions accept the nylon selector cartridge.

Doesn't look like you can get the basic 200-RV with the brass valve body.

 

[danemayer]

Jim,

It sounds like there's more going on with your water system than just the pump. In fact, having a bunch of screws break on the pump begs for an explanation. Same with the initial problem with the new pump before moving connections back and forth. Same with the OEM pump not doing the job.

Do you still have venting to the fresh tank with your RO system and are the vents unrestricted? Some of this sounds like it's hard to get water to the pump. Or possibly did all the rerouting of water tubing create a restriction on the output side?

Is there an opportunity to test with city water? Doing so would let you narrow things down.

 

[jbeletti]

Jim,

It sounds like there's more going on with your water system than just the pump. In fact, having a bunch of screws break on the pump begs for an explanation. Same with the initial problem with the new pump before moving connections back and forth. Same with the OEM pump not doing the job.

Do you still have venting to the fresh tank with your RO system and are the vents unrestricted? Some of this sounds like it's hard to get water to the pump. Or possibly did all the rerouting of water tubing create a restriction on the output side?

Is there an opportunity to test with city water? Doing so would let you narrow things down.

Hey Dan,

I think these are unrelated.

Yes, tank vents are intact (2) - 1 per side, no valves on them and they are working.

Our pump sees a pretty heavy duty cycle as we use it for 100% of our water needs. This includes the dishwasher and clothes washer. First, 1 screw sheared. Then another. Once a couple are gone, with all the force being put on the unit, I can see the domino effect taking place.

Yes, I can rotate 2 valves to plumb city water from the output of my filters, back to the Anderson valve and into the coach system, bypassing the RO/Pump setup. But I'm tired and my shoulder hurts. Tomorrow, before I remove the pump to access the pressure adjustment, I'll do the bypass test. Thanks!

 

[Joeg]

Water pumping shooting water out of the fresh water direct connect hose

So before I got to my camp ground I filled up the fresh water tank. I got there set up and wanted to use the sink. I turn on the water pump and water start flowing out of the fresh water direct connect. Anybody know what the problem is?

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water pumping shooting water out of the fresh water direct connect hose

So before I got to my camp ground I filled up the fresh water tank. I got there set up and wanted to use the sink. I turn on the water pump and water start flowing out of the fresh water direct connect. Anybody know what the problem is?

Hi Joeg,

If water is coming out of the city water connection, the check valve in the fitting may not be closing. To get it unstuck, try gently pressing on the center of the fitting with the tip of a pen.

 

[cookie]

Sometimes that valve has to be replaced. Mine did.
As a temporary fix you can just put a cap on the fresh water connection or put your fresh water hose on it and kink the hose to prevent flow.

Peace
Dave