Getting ready for full timing !!

RawFaith

Active Member
Re: getting the roof done

it's looking good!no rain today and excited about shooting the paint.
Roof looks good! ( kind of weird to see the roof on grey..)
 

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RawFaith

Active Member
Re: getting the roof done

Big days ahead...!
today hope to do 2 coats and hope tomorrow final coat ;)
 

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RawFaith

Active Member
2 coats on....going up for the 3rd....
 

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Carleen

Well-known member
Make sure that you check all the pointing (caulking) constantly. I use blue painters tape along each edge to get a clean line. Make sure to remove the old loose calk. Push with your fingers to make sure there is a good bond on each edge. I use a pick and hook, Harbor Freight, and a safety raiser to carefully remove the unbonded pointing. Check every three months if you live where there is a lot of rain.

Our 2011 BH needs a lot of help in the caulking area. I have noticed the caulking has let go around the end-cap something fierce. I wanted to take a day and remove all the bad, tape, and replace with good. Is there a brand you recommend for RV's that you have had good luck with? This is a project I will be doing over the next month if the weather cooperates.

Also- the plastic (?) under the nose leading along the front side has warped. I think it could be from the prior-owners exhaust on there truck causing it. The rippling his heaviest along the front edge under the nose cap. Any suggestions on how to fill and seal that area? I am not sure I am handy enough to replace the plastic.

Thanks!
 

RawFaith

Active Member
white roof again...!!!

shooting the last coat ( at least for now....:rolleyes:)
 

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RawFaith

Active Member

RawFaith

Active Member
Our 2011 BH needs a lot of help in the caulking area. I have noticed the caulking has let go around the end-cap something fierce. I wanted to take a day and remove all the bad, tape, and replace with good. Is there a brand you recommend for RV's that you have had good luck with? This is a project I will be doing over the next month if the weather cooperates.

Also- the plastic (?) under the nose leading along the front side has warped. I think it could be from the prior-owners exhaust on there truck causing it. The rippling his heaviest along the front edge under the nose cap. Any suggestions on how to fill and seal that area? I am not sure I am handy enough to replace the plastic.

Thanks!

Hi Carleen!
thanks for jumping in...
The whole caulking is a subject on it's own and probably deserve it's own thread.
In our case we will be resealing everything everywhere! decided to start from the roof on the way down, just to isolate issues easier and to be able to work inside when the weather doesn't want to cooperate.
In the roof we went with tape over every seam or opening ( skylights, and vents) and then went thru the edges with Self Leveling caulk made by DICOR, a little more expensive but does a good job.
Also got some tubes of their non leveling lap seal for the windows, compartments doors and end caps.
Found the best deal online :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141940147128?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Didn't get to caulk the sides yet, but I will be definitely be using tape, gloves and rugs and paint thiner handy...
a pic of the front damage under the nose will help..
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
We were just thinking about getting cable, and checking on dish or direct tv .
Wondering what channels can we get with the king/jack ?

It depends on where you are at . . .

Since it is an over-the-air HD antenna you'll be able to pull in local channels.

In our side yard with the batwing on the north side of Denver I was pulling in around 25 channels.

With the King/Jack . . . almost 80 channels.

I'm thinking about dumping my $140 per month Direct TV bill and buying a King/Jack to mount on the roof of our house!
 

Carleen

Well-known member
Hi Carleen!
thanks for jumping in...
The whole caulking is a subject on it's own and probably deserve it's own thread.
In our case we will be resealing everything everywhere! decided to start from the roof on the way down, just to isolate issues easier and to be able to work inside when the weather doesn't want to cooperate.
In the roof we went with tape over every seam or opening ( skylights, and vents) and then went thru the edges with Self Leveling caulk made by DICOR, a little more expensive but does a good job.
Also got some tubes of their non leveling lap seal for the windows, compartments doors and end caps.
Found the best deal online :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141940147128?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Didn't get to caulk the sides yet, but I will be definitely be using tape, gloves and rugs and paint thiner handy...
a pic of the front damage under the nose will help..

Thanks for the info! I will browse other threads about caulking- I'm sure one is out there. Once I get back to the trailer I will take and upload pictures. It was hard to explain and I agree pictures will help!


Carleen
2011 Ford F-350 6.7
2011 Big Horn 3585RL
 

loganhughes

Member
RawFaith,
Congrats on your Landmark purchase and on going full-time! We purchased our Sundance used 3 years ago. Since I didn't really know for sure what kind of attention the wheel bearings and brakes received, I opted for a first-hand inspection. I removed the hubs to inspect the bearings, brakes, and magnets. I cleaned all the bearings and hand-packed then adjusted the brakes. Doing this surely helped my peace of mind!
 

RawFaith

Active Member
thanks LohanHuges!
We are very excited about the unit, the space is nice!
Really thinking about the bearings, we have the National Apologetics Conference in NC that we attend every year and would love to take our house with us!
Now that you mentioned the brakes, when we brought it home the brakes weren't working for some reason. The brake controller also showed No Trailer Connected ( Prodigy3), magnets ? Need to check the truck plug also...
 

RawFaith

Active Member
While working on the roof, removed the Ac Shrouds to clean the Acs before painting.
Noticed some hairline cracks on them, and here is the attempt of recovery...:confused:
 

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RawFaith

Active Member
not exactly plastic surgery.....
 

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wdk450

Well-known member
I WOULD SAY THAT FIXING THE BRAKES IS A HIGHER PRIORITY THAN BODY/ROOF. Best of all worlds on the big 5th wheels is the disk brake upgrade. Check with MorRyde in Elkhart (you will have to travel there), or contact member Titanguy on this forum who has a mobile crew travelling around the country doing disk brake upgrade installs.

BTW, do you have an upgraded pinbox? If you have towed the rig some, you might have noticed a rough ride in the truck from the rig chucking (forward and back movement) along with vertical bouncing as you tow. MorRyde makes a pinbox with a rubber block isolator, TrailAire and 5th Airborne make pinboxes with airbag isolators.

You might give very serious thought to the MorRyde Independent Suspension upgrade. This radically smooths out the ride in the trailer for your stuff, and keeps your trailer frame from bending/cracking. The Heartland National Rally will be in the Elkhart area next year, and traditionally MorRyde has very good discounts on both IS and disk brakes in conjunction with the Heartland national rallies. Many Heartlanders schedule the upgrade at MorRyde immediately before/after the national rally, usually in mid June. Also, most people doing this upgrade get the disk brakes upgrade at the same time.
http://www.morryde.com/products/87-independent-suspension-system
http://www.morryde.com/products/95-disc-brakes
 

RawFaith

Active Member
I WOULD SAY THAT FIXING THE BRAKES IS A HIGHER PRIORITY THAN BODY/ROOF. Best of all worlds on the big 5th wheels is the disk brake upgrade. Check with MorRyde in Elkhart (you will have to travel there), or contact member Titanguy on this forum who has a mobile crew travelling around the country doing disk brake upgrade installs.

BTW, do you have an upgraded pinbox? If you have towed the rig some, you might have noticed a rough ride in the truck from the rig chucking (forward and back movement) along with vertical bouncing as you tow. MorRyde makes a pinbox with a rubber block isolator, TrailAire and 5th Airborne make pinboxes with airbag isolators.

You might give very serious thought to the MorRyde Independent Suspension upgrade. This radically smooths out the ride in the trailer for your stuff, and keeps your trailer frame from bending/cracking. The Heartland National Rally will be in the Elkhart area next year, and traditionally MorRyde has very good discounts on both IS and disk brakes in conjunction with the Heartland national rallies. Many Heartlanders schedule the upgrade at MorRyde immediately before/after the national rally, usually in mid June. Also, most people doing this upgrade get the disk brakes upgrade at the same time.
http://www.morryde.com/products/87-independent-suspension-system
http://www.morryde.com/products/95-disc-brakes


Wow, nice upgrades for the running gear! Love the IS upgrade, looks like an expensive one...LOL
All of them I believe can be really good, in our case even when we will be full timing we will not be full time on the road. The unit will be mostly parked in an RV Park and we will travel few times during the year.
Again , the upgrades look fantastic, specially the IS. Now about the brakes: discs brakes normally work with hydraulic fluids and that requires an electric over hydraulic box ( not just swapping drums and hubs). I was also thinking about adding a Exhaust Brake to the 12V Cummins, and found out that I can upgrade the turbo to a VGT that has the Ebrake for almost the same price of an Ebrake alone.
But anyways, I guess this can be a thread on its own: Discs brakes upgrade or Exhaust Brake?
 

RawFaith

Active Member
and let the "plastic surgery" begin!
A little of fiberglass cloth and some resin with a hardener applied with a brush.
will let it dry until tomorrow..
 

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RawFaith

Active Member
once dried, decided to fresh the look of them...;)
 

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