Getting shock off trailer
- Thread starter Ricoh
- Start date
For an RPBG, most certainly Yes.
For an open ground, most probably no.
scottyb
Well-known member
I had a similar problem with my Cyclone after the dealer replaced a transfer switch. Thanks to Mike's blogs, the NCVT lit up like a Christmas tree from about a foot away. Unbelievably, they admitted their error and repaired it. I knew it wasn't a pedestal issue because I had the problem at multiple pedestals at different locations. My question now is, since I recently installed a Progressive EMS hardwired after the transfer switch, would that have prevented passage of power to the RV?
You first need to confirm there's a low resistance connection from the frame of the RV all the way to the ground pin on the shore power connector. It should measure less than 1 ohm from the RV frame to the primary shore power plug's ground pin. Then plug in any dogbone or pigtail adapters, and measure again. Any increase in resistance tells you theres a break in the safety ground.
Also, double-check the pedestal outlet yourself for correct voltage, polarity, and ground. Remember, if it is wired as a RPBG, then the electrician probably didn't discover it with his normal test methods. I really do think you should purchase a NCVT (Non Contact Voltage Tester) such as a VoltAlert. Make sure to get a Non Contact Voltage Tester rated for 90 to 1,000 volts or so. Even though it's rated for a minimum of 90 volts, when pointed towards something as large as an RV it should light on contact with as little as 40 volts hot-skin voltage, and light up from a foot or more away with 120 volts hot-skin. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8h64X33aKg for how this works.
ParkIt
Well-known member
I'm seeing more Plug in GFCI's at campground on larger units of all kinds lately, many established RV parks are older and trying to make wider spaces to accommodate our 4 and 5 slide out units. They are cutting corners on wiring, water and gray/black water hook ups so we need to have additional electrical, water and plumbing attachments to not damage our units regardless of what they are.
One park close to us 'upgraded' their sites this last winter for larger units but I found water pressure at the tap to be pushing 127psi and a half hacked power pole that I would even touch the metal cover. They are also having issues with hook ups to the sewer with a charge to come and dump your tanks for you in a truck they bought - I'm thinking the money they spent on the truck would have been better spent on the sewer lines.
This isn't a factory issue, its a RV park issue but at least we can purchase after market products to keep everything working properly.
One park close to us 'upgraded' their sites this last winter for larger units but I found water pressure at the tap to be pushing 127psi and a half hacked power pole that I would even touch the metal cover. They are also having issues with hook ups to the sewer with a charge to come and dump your tanks for you in a truck they bought - I'm thinking the money they spent on the truck would have been better spent on the sewer lines.
This isn't a factory issue, its a RV park issue but at least we can purchase after market products to keep everything working properly.
Agreed... Here's the best NCVT available at Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100661...p=BazVoice-_-RLP-_-100661787-_-x#.UYl_YoLLD6Q
I've tried this out on my portable demonstration hot-skin tester, and it seems to have to proper sensitivity.
This is not 100% correct. While there indeed needs to be an open ground path, you don't have to have a direct short circuit to create a hot-skin condition. Many appliances will normally have internal leakage currents of a few milliamps, often allowing them to self-bias to about half of the line potential, or 60 volts AC. And every surge strip will normally leak current to ground, so if it's not properly grounded it can raise the potential of the RV's chassis/skin. Of course, these are high-impedance hot-skin conditions, many of which won't be life threatening. However, they can easily turn into low-impedance hot-skin conditions, and that will easily kill you. I've been teaching how to use NCVT's for the last several years, and still think it's the best and safest way for every RV owner to quickly check their vehicle for a hot-skin condition.
As others have noted here, and I teach in every NoShockZone seminar, You should NEVER feel any kind of shock from your RV.
Just ordered 10 of these from Amazon @ $15.27 delivered. Will add them to the door prize pool for the Goshen rally.
Great idea, Jim. I think you should also include copies of my NoShockZone article on how to use a NCVT to find an RV hot skin voltage.
See http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iv-–-hot-skin/
ParkIt
Well-known member
evolvingpowercat
Well-known member
Suggest you include a one page "how-to" handout with each one on how to use it correctly. If people read the whole jmsokol article its all in there but I know a lot of people won't read more than 100 words at a time 
The cliff notes one pager would be something like this: Note - there are more steps that can be used to check for wiring problems at the shore power outlet that could be added to this flow chart but this would be the minimum.... 1) put the non-contact tester in your pocket (does no good if in the camper) 2) Plug in shore power cord - don't touch the RV anymore yet ! 3) If you use surge guard with time delay, wait for the delay to occur and power to be applied thru the surge guard, then continue 4) Stand on ground by RV with hand all the way around the non-contact tester and press its test button 5) Place the tip close to any metal on the RV like the door or the step 6) If the thing lights up and makes noise then there is voltage on the skin and don't touch ! 7) If nothing then you should be OK - just to make sure the tester is really working you can hold the plastic tip next to the narrow outlet prong on your outdoor 110V outlet
The cliff notes one pager would be something like this: Note - there are more steps that can be used to check for wiring problems at the shore power outlet that could be added to this flow chart but this would be the minimum.... 1) put the non-contact tester in your pocket (does no good if in the camper) 2) Plug in shore power cord - don't touch the RV anymore yet ! 3) If you use surge guard with time delay, wait for the delay to occur and power to be applied thru the surge guard, then continue 4) Stand on ground by RV with hand all the way around the non-contact tester and press its test button 5) Place the tip close to any metal on the RV like the door or the step 6) If the thing lights up and makes noise then there is voltage on the skin and don't touch ! 7) If nothing then you should be OK - just to make sure the tester is really working you can hold the plastic tip next to the narrow outlet prong on your outdoor 110V outlet
wdk450
Well-known member
wdk450
Well-known member
Thanks Jim, you left 3 in stock
Home Depot lists these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...1SEN/100661787?keyword=NCVT-1SEN#.UYp-UaKG0tg
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Suggest you include a one page "how-to" handout with each one on how to use it correctly. If people read the whole jmsokol article its all in there but I know a lot of people won't read more than 100 words at a time
Jim Beletti, please contact me about this. I should probably create a "hot-skin NCVT test for dummies" sort of article.
Yeah, my magazine editors used to kid me that I couldn't write my own name in less that 250 words, so my articles tend to be longer rather than shorter. But an SOP on testing electrical systems needs to be very concise since there's electricity involved (go figure
)
wdk450
Well-known member
porthole
Retired
Mike,
You were originally recommending this tester;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJ332O/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Still good to go?
You were originally recommending this tester;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJ332O/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Still good to go?
Yes, both the Fluke and the Klein testers work exactly the same for my RV proximity hot-skin test. The Fluke seems to be built a little stronger (IMHO) but are hard to find in stores and need to be ordered online in most cases. While you can walk into any Home Depot and buy the Klein NCVT off the rack. I have at least a half dozen other brands and models of NCVT's I've tested for this function, but it would be a lot of work to write a definitive review of all possible testers. Of course, if I had a little industry support I would be glad to write such an article, but that support does not appear to be coming anytime soon.
Ricoh
Past Ontario Chapter Leader
Update on electrical problem. Went and bought the Klein tester yesterday and went back up to the trailer. They plugged me into a different outlet but said the other one tested out fine. Tested the trailer and the skin was not energized. My son is coming up today with some testing equipment and we will check a few things out. The cgfi in the trailer all popped. I did not reset them till we go back up today. Thanks for the help.
Rick
Rick
