Jacking

SJH

Past Washington Chapter Leaders
I have always been told to jack from the frame as close to the axle as possible with the coach hitched. That being said, I have not had occasion to do this with our new Big Country yet. I have seen others manufacture a "saddle" to place on the axle for jackig purposes. I will see if I can search an example. I have also seen some weld one of THESE to a bottle jack. Not sure of the benefits other than stability.

Best Wishes!
 

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
On all my trailers, including the 5er, I get the jack under the U bolts because that is usually as close to the end of the axle as you can get. The further toward the center of any axle that you try to lift you run the risk of damage. You have all the weight on the ends of the axles and the lift platform of the jack becomes a fulcrum point. The further toward the center you move the jack the more force or leverage is at that fulcrum point and you run the risk of bending the axle. The prefered place IMHO is to lift at the frame, but, that would take a heck of a jack, more than I carry with me. Just my opinion.
 

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
On all my trailers, including the 5er, I get the jack under the U bolts because that is usually as close to the end of the axle as you can get. The further toward the center of any axle that you try to lift you run the risk of damage. You have all the weight on the ends of the axles and the lift platform of the jack becomes a fulcrum point. The further toward the center you move the jack the more force or leverage is at that fulcrum point and you run the risk of bending the axle. The prefered place IMHO is to lift at the frame, but, that would take a heck of a jack, more than I carry with me. Just my opinion.

I just watched the video that you have linked. The U bolts, under the springs are where those guys are lifting as well.
 

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
This is copy and past right off of the Lippert site.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JACKING THE FRAME TO CHANGE A TIRE
1. Carrying a jack rated for the weight of the coach is essential. The jack must be rated
between 8 and 12 tons.
2. To prevent damage to the coach, carry wood blocks to place between the jack and
the main rail (I-beam) of the coach and to go under the jack.
3. DO NOT jack the coach on the axle tube or black pipe gas lines that can sometimes
be mounted to the bottom of the I-beam.
4. Chock the wheels, both front and rear, on the opposite side of the coach.
5. If hitched to tow vehicle, stay hitched and set the parking brake.
6. DO NOT use the front landing gear or rear stabilizer jacks to pick the coach up to
change a tire. This is dangerous and may result in serious bodily injury or death

They don't want us picking up on their axle tubes. The problem I have with this is the safety issue of stacking a jack on wood blocks. Do look at item 1 on the list. I carry a 25 ton bottle style.
 

eddylives

Well-known member
Has anyone ever used one of the two devices I have seen on the market?
One is a Half moon looking device you would drive onto with your tire , which would lift the trailer and allow you to work on the wheel beside it.
The other is a half moon device again but this one is placed under the axle tube instead and lifts that axle as you drive ahead.
I have my doubts about the axle lifting style , especially with a large rig but the drive on a tire one looks interesting.
 

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
Has anyone ever used one of the two devices I have seen on the market?
One is a Half moon looking device you would drive onto with your tire , which would lift the trailer and allow you to work on the wheel beside it.
The other is a half moon device again but this one is placed under the axle tube instead and lifts that axle.
I have my doubts about the axle lifting style , especially with a large rig but the drive on a tire one looks interesting.

The axle lifting one is good for boat trailers but probably not for our rigs.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I set my trailer jacks (front & rear) on pads like these and would have no qualm about putting one under a bottle jack if needed (I carry spares). They're "one piece" units made of 4x4 topped with 5/4 decking. Between the jack and frame rail, a piece of 5/4 lumber will help prevent the jack head from slipping/skidding on the metal frame.

But, with a Ground Control or other jacking/leveling system, it's possible to raise the coach off the ground without extra jacks.

View attachment 17796
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
I bought a set of "drive up" tire lifts. Got one side to work but would not lift the BH high enough to raise the other tire on that side. BTW, they were the ones that they claim that will lift any coach. The second side I tried just slid the "drive up " lift along the driveway and crushed it. I'm out $60.00 and they are JUNK now.
 

eddylives

Well-known member
Ok I kind of thought the tire ones looked sketchy lol
And the axle ones would do a smaller unit but be no good for heavy trailers.
Will keep the old bottle jacks and blocking on hand hehe.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
If you are just adjusting the brakes, go ahead and put the bottle jack under the axle as close to the "u" bolts as possible. Do it one wheel at a time and lift the axle just enough for the tire to clear the ground.
 

santafesoul

Member
Thank you all, jacking on the frame was not that bad but carrying around the timbers necessary to be safe will add to the load!

Boy am I glad I did this maintenance. While under the coach, I noticed a bolt without a nut, that bolt is the pivot for the equalizer and it had worked partially out.

Once again this forum and you all have saved my behind. Thanks again!
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I carry a full bin of 2 x 6 and 2 x 8 blockings cut to 12" long and use them for everything from wheel chucking to jacking blocks for the trailer and the truck. I have installed 7500 Lbs scissor jacks on the trailer just behind the wheels to add further stability to our unit. I do all my maintenance to the wheels by taking some of the weight of the trailer with the scissor jacks and the remaining with the 6 ton hyd. jack under the axles at the spring u-bolts. I always install blockings under the axle away from the jack for my protection in case the jack does slip and its been easy to do all my maintenance. Everytime I do work on the axles or wheels the trailer is attached to the truck with the front landing gears up.
If any work is required to the springs the trailer has to be jacked and blocked by the frame, and a second jack is required for the axles in order to loosen the springs.. My 6 ton jack has done the job very well, and if I do get an other one, I will get the same quality one because they are easily handled due to the weight. I feel more pressure on the handle but 12K lbs is plenty to lift the side of my unit as 7000 lbs is all is required, even less if the jack is on the frame behind the wheels.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
I just put the Level-up in manuel mode and pickup the whole rig. Then I put 4 or 6 jack stands under it.
 
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